2021 Morey St Denis, Les Crais Gillon, Domaine Odoul-Coquard

Tasting note

Les Crais Gillon is a 0.5-hectare plot located east of the village of Morey, just below the Route des Grand Crus. The vines are 60+ years old and have tiny berries, producing concentrated fruit. The resilient berries that survived have made a textbook Morey-St.-Denis from the old school, with peppery raspberry fruit and succulent spice on the finish. Volumes are disastrous here, with only 3 ½ barrels produced instead of a typical production of 11. Drink 2024-2032

Our thoughts

Morey sits between two more high profile appellations – Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny – not just geographically, but also in stylistic terms. More elegant than Gevrey and more structured than Chambolle, it tends to deliver wines marked by darker Pinot fruit, with a certain attractive earthiness – as seen in this fine example from a small but increasingly reputed family domaine. Sebastien Odoul gained experience at such stellar domaines as Dujac and Méo-Camuzet before joining and subsequently taking over from his father; the rigour and attention to detail he doubtless learned in such environments is now bearing fruit at home, with a softening of oak treatment allowing the fruit to shine.