A guide to buying Sangiovese | How do you choose a red wine?
The dominant grape of Italian viticulture, Sangiovese is the country’s most-planted red grape variety. Found in central Italian regions, such as Tuscany, Sangiovese is one of Italy’s most elegant and structured reds, which are savoury, complex, and complete. It also shines in the vineyards of Chianti, where the popular dry and red wines Chianti and Chianti Classico are made with at least 80% Sangiovese grapes.
Historically, Sangiovese was often mixed with white varieties in the Chianti zone – this made economic sense but rarely flattered Tuscany’s leading variety. However, a backlash in the late 20th century prompted a rethink, and some of Italy’s top labels now routinely blend Sangiovese with the best examples, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, known as “Super Tuscans”.
This guide will explore what buyers should know about Sangiovese, including how Sangiovese is grown, the most popular regions, and the best ways to choose a Sangiovese wine.
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What kind of wine is Sangiovese?
For centuries, viticulturists assumed an extraordinarily long lineage for the Sangiovese grape. Indeed, the name translates as ‘blood of Jove’, an apparent reference to the Roman deity Jupiter. It was first mentioned in writing in 1590, under the synonym Sangiogheto; it is also known as Niellucci and Prugnolo Gentile.
There is a broad range of styles and regional expressions available today. Sangiovese can be blended with a generous proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, producing a full-bodied wine with aromas of black cherry, blackcurrants and spices. Younger, varietal wines, unoaked and fresh, can be delightfully crisp and fruit-forward. Aromas of black cherries and stone fruit are often detected in Chianti Classico, with secondary notes of garrigue and bell pepper. Sangiovese is typically medium-bodied, with high tannin and high acidity levels. Other tastes include tobacco, leather, and coffee.
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Sangiovese by region
Italy
With the exception of the Adriatic coast and Bolgheri, central Italy is dedicated to the Sangiovese grape. In the hills between Florence and Siena, producers fashion exemplary wines from low-cropped, top-quality Sangiovese vines; aged in oak before release and sometimes blended (maximum 20%) with other varieties. The vineyards of Chianti Classico are planted at elevations of between 200-600 metres above sea level, which affords all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation (a significant difference between day and night time temperature). This results in relatively light-coloured reds, which are nonetheless packed full of flavour and savoury complexity.
South of Siena has the iconic vineyards of Montalcino, where Brunello di Montalcino is produced; a highly prestigious expression of the Sangiovese grape. Morellino di Scansano, south of Grosseto, produces very fleshy and supple wines from Sangiovese; with flavours of ripe red berries. Umbria’s Torgiana DOCG has proven that the grape can thrive in several different regions. It is also widely planted in the vineyards southeast of Bologna in Emilia-Romagna.
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France
Sangiovese (known locally as Nielluccio) produces some of Corsica’s finest red wines in the Patrimonio region, inland from the port of Bastia. Imported by the Genoese who ruled the island until the 1700s, it thrives on the limestone terroir of Corsica’s northeastern tip.
Argentina
Italian migrants introduced Sangiovese to Argentina in the late 19th century, where it has maintained a niche following. Typically, the acreage is dwarfed by Malbec. However, the best wines are exceptional: fruit-forward and expressive, with silky tannins and flavours of sour cherry, cranberry and red plum.
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USA
Sangiovese has been cultivated in the US since the 1800s. There are plantings in California – namely Napa Valley, Santa Barbara and the Sierra Foothills – in addition to Washington and Oregon. Some of the closest facsimiles to the Tuscan standard are made in Walla Walla (Washington State), where the wines showcase sour cherry and garrigue flavours.
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Australia
Australia has led the way in producing high-quality wines from native Italian grapes – particularly Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. The latter has shown great promise in the cooler parts of Western Australia – it excels in Margaret River – and Yarra Valley in Victoria. Expect bright cherry and berry flavours and firm savoury tannins, synonymous with great Sangiovese wines.
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Sangiovese viticulture & winemaking
Sangiovese can be difficult to grow; prone to both rot (due to the berry’s thin skins) and overproduction. It is a late-ripening variety requiring a long, warm, relatively dry growing season to achieve phenolic ripeness. Underripe Sangiovese is associated with astringent tannin and a certain tartness. However, unwieldy alcohol and a lack of acidity are viticultural hazards when cultivating Sangiovese in hotter Italy.
Fortunately, the grape thrives in the alberese (sandstone) and clay-limestone (galestro) soils of central Tuscany. Diurnal temperature variation is also highly beneficial to the berry’s development.
In Chianti Classico, Sangiovese was traditionally fermented in Slavonian wood vats for a long period (2-3 weeks) before the wine was run off. A long maceration will produce structured wines suitable for ageing, although extracting a great deal of tannin in weaker vintages is unwise; it accentuates the tendency of Sangiovese to bitterness. The oak choice is often linked with fermentation choice: long fermentations conclude with maturation in Slavonian barrels, while shorter fermentations are typically aged in barrique. Yet some winemakers reject oak in almost any form, preferring concrete eggs or maturation in amphora.
Discover more about Chianti Classico here.
How do you choose a Sangiovese wine?
Sangiovese is a moving target for categorisation, depending on a host of variables, including where the grapes are grown and how they are made. There are differing weights and styles. Young Chianti is often a straightforward, fruity red, whereas, Riserva and Gran Selezione Chianti Classico (the highest tier introduced in 2014) are very complex and structured expressions of the grape, suitable for long ageing. However, the relatively small volumes made in the New World tend to display silkier tannins than their Tuscan counterparts, with red berry, damson and vanilla flavours. So there really is a Sangiovese wine for every occasion and palate.
Due to its high acidity and savoury character, Sangiovese can pair well with diverse dishes. Young and unoaked reds can be enjoyed slightly chilled; antipasti and tomato-based pasta sauces always work. Sangiovese’s more ‘serious’ side is much admired for its firm structure, making it a favourite with ragu bolognese and roasts – particularly lamb and pork. The finest bottles – Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione – deserve a slow-cooked beef joint.
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Frequently asked questions
How long does an opened bottle of Sangiovese last?
It depends on the bottle age: mature vintages should be consumed on the opening day. However, younger wine bottles resealed with a cork or a wine stopper can last a few days in the fridge.
How do you store a Sangiovese wine bottle?
Always store wine in a cool and dark space, preferably not in the kitchen.
What wines are similar to Sangiovese?
If you enjoy Sangiovese, why not try Tempranillo; a medium to full-bodied red wine that is similar to the fruit flavours of Sangiovese. Sangiovese is also similar to Brunello di Montalcino, produced in the Tuscan region of Italy. This red wine is primarily made from the Sangiovese grape.
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