An insider’s guide to Bordeaux: Pomerol wine
If you desire opulence, intensity and complexity from your Bordeaux wines, then you’ll love Pomerol. The appellation is home to both artisan producers and iconic wineries such as Château Pétrus and Château Le Pin; the latter routinely sells for over £20,000 per case. This is a region that never loses any sleep over marketing its signature product.
However, Pomerol’s considerable allure does not rely on a well-oiled and sophisticated promotional machine. A Visitor to this corner of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, north of the Dordogne River, should not expect to encounter a replica of Napa Valley. There is a noticeable paucity of hotels, restaurants and tasting rooms. Imposing landmarks are also few and far between. Most visitors drive past the legendary Château Pétrus without even noticing its modest buildings – Pomerol isn’t interested in becoming a magnet for French wine tourists. Neither is there any formal hierarchical classification—unlike St-Émilion—to help guide consumers towards the best labels. Pomerol producers refused to undertake an official classification of their fine wine in the 20th century, and they’re unlikely to change that approach today.
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The Pomerol wine region
Today there are approximately 813 hectares of vineyard in Pomerol, planted on a flat gravel bank in a small region that is barely three kilometres wide. It is bordered by the larger Saint-Émilion wine appellation to the east, and by the pretty town of Libourne to the south west. The zone was awarded the Pomerol AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status in 1936. The climate is subject to a combination of maritime and continental influences, with the most inclement weather typically occurring in March and April. But the region often enjoys a consistently warm summer growing season and dry conditions during harvest.
Geography and terrior
The appellation’s terroir is far from homogenous. The most famous and celebrated terroirs of the region are found on the Pomerol plateau, full of blue clay and iron deposits known as ‘crasse de fer’, located in the north-easterly expanses of the appellation. The château Lafleur, Pétrus, L’Evangile, Gazin and Trotanoy enjoy a privileged position on the clay/gravel band, which is noted for its water-retentive properties in dry vintages. Merlot and Cabernet Franc grown on the plateau tend to produce some of Pomerol’s most powerfully structure and concentrated wines.
The terroir at the southern boundaries of the zone could not be more different. A mixture of sand and gravel dominates the vineyards near the Eglise de Pomerol, becoming increasingly more sandy as the land slopes down towards Libourne. Such conditions result in a slightly different interpretation of Pomerol: lighter, with less tannin and concentration when compared to the wines produced on the plateau. The southernmost sector of Pomerol, just beyond the hamlet of Catusseau, is renowned for producing particularly fragrant and delicate French wine, a fact attributed to the high percentage of loamy soils. In contrast, the vineyards found north of Catusseau are full of gravel deposits. This is where you’ll find Le Pin, the archetype cult wine from the Bordeaux region.
Key grape varieties
Historically, Pomerol was also dedicated to producing sizeable volumes of white wine, sold by Dutch merchants to the households of Northern Europe. White vines were banned from Pomerol in the 20th century. Unlike the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Bordeaux left bank. Contemporary red wine from Pomerol is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with the former nearly always playing a dominant role. Both varieties have enjoyed a long relationship with the Bordeaux wine region.
Merlot
As the dominant variety in the appellation’s wines, Merlot can lay claim to being overwhelmingly responsible for your enjoyment. This grape variety ripens earlier than Cabernet Franc and boasts bigger berries and thinner skins resulting in a soft and silky red wine style that is rarely unapproachable in its youth. Merlot arrived later in the mid-1700s: historical records indicate that a merchant called Louis-Leonard Fontemoing first decided to experiment with Merlot at what is today called Chateau Rouget.
Cabernet Franc
Local producers will tell you that a dose of Cabernet Franc is needed to complete the picture. The grape undoubtedly reaches its apogee in Pomerol, producing the most voluptuous and creamy wine imaginable. The grape ripens one week to 10 days later than Merlot and is celebrated for its fine tannins and aromas of graphite, red berries and damson. It is widely accepted that a small volume of Cabernet Franc—typically between 15-25%—adds structure, acidity and longevity to the final blend. Under the historic name of Bidure, was planted in Pomerol in the 16th century.
Enjoying Pomerol wine
A good Pomerol wine showcases the glorious opulence that flows effortlessly from the Merlot grape, with the refined perfume and racy acidity of Cabernet Franc. Young wines often boast a dense purple colour and an open bouquet of black cherries, cassis, raspberry and liquorice. With age, you might expect to encounter tertiary flavours of forest floor, olive, cigar box and truffle. The standard of winemaking seen across the zone is consistently very high and poor quality Pomerol is exceedingly rare; the wine lover’s paradise.
In light of the impeccably high quality on offer, one can still discover (relative) value in Bordeaux’s Right Bank wines. Pomerol wine is produced in small quantities so good Pomerol wine is never ‘cheap’, neither are the region’s prices ludicrous. Remember that you’re paying for a long-established and virtually flawless track record of excellence. There is no gamble or risk involved in exploring the world of Pomerol wine.
Mature vintages of Chateau Providence, Pomerol are rarely seen in retail today, due to the fierce global demand. A cooler growing season did not stop the owners from producing a racy and structured wine, full of tertiary aromas of tobacco, capsicum, graphite and forest floor. Precise and harmonious, this would pair extremely well with roast lamb. While the team at Château Providence surpassed themselves in 2009, crafting a Pomerol wine of beguiling perfume and magnificent structure and depth. Another great wine, Chateau Chantalouette offers unrivalled value. It shows Pomerol at its magnificent best, with its rich nose of blackberries, violets and damson jam. It is balanced by fine acidity, which gives the wine great elegance. Finally, one has to marvel at the ability of the Moueix family to produce excellent Pomerol wines at fair prices. The 2018 vintage of Jean-Pierre Moueix offers an exquisite perfume of blueberries and plums, fine structure and impressive length. It is elegance personified.
Frequently asked questions
Is Pomerol a Bordeaux wine?
Pomerol is a small sub-region of Bordeaux with its own fine wine appellation. Pomerol frequently produces high quality red wines to elevate any dinner party.
Where can you buy Pomerol wines?
Pomerol wines sell themselves, often it can be difficult to get your hands on good Pomerol, vintages at a reasonable price. Fortunately, we stock a variety of wines from Pomerol.
How do you drink Pomerol wine?
Pomerol wine should be served between 16 and 17°C, slightly cooler than average. This wine should be drunk after ageing in bottle for 5 to 30 years. Red meats, poultry, games and white meats pair well with Pomerol wines.
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