An insider’s guide to Bordeaux: Saint-Émilion wine
The Bordeaux wine region of Saint-Émilion has no shortage of acolytes and it’s very easy to understand why. A great deal of excellent red wine is made in Saint-Émilion and many vast can even be enjoyed at a young age . The town at the centre of the appellation, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, bursting with excellent restaurants, wine boutiques and medieval wonders. The framework for classifying Saint-Émilion’s top wine estates has no equal in Bordeaux.
This article will give an overview of the history and wine tradition of the region. You will also come to learn the key appellations and the sub-regions in St-Émilion. Finally, we recommend both high quality and value wines to try from the prestigious region.
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The Saint-Émilion wine region
Tradition has not been side-lined in this part of Bordeaux. Each winery has simply decided to let heritage and innovation coexist. The zone of production, situated north of the Dordogne River, on the Bordeaux right bank, was first delineated in 1936. There are approximately 5400 hectares under vine, planted in a very heterogeneous Saint-Émilion vineyard with marked differences in terroir. To the west of the zone’s boundaries lies the Pomerol region. To the north is the Barbanne stream and the neighbouring appellations of Saint-Georges and Montagne-St-Émilion. Like neighbouring Pomerol, the climate is shaped by both maritime and continental influences, with typically warm summers and wet springs.
Key appellations
The first St-Émilion classification was unveiled in 1955, dividing estates into four tiers: Premier Cru Classé A, Premier Cru Classe B, Grand Cru Classe and Grand Cru. What makes the Saint-Émilion classification unique is that it is required to be revised every ten years. The most recent reassessment was released on September the 8th, 2022. A panel of experts have tasted and analysed each fine wine to ensure that Châteaux are not resting on their laurels, only fourteen Premier Grand Crus were awarded. The criteria for assessment are continually revised and updated over the years. In addition to tasting past vintages, the panel will consider the estate’s terroir, pricing, marketing strategy and global renown via press coverage and social media. St-Émilion is possibly the least reactionary wine zone in France.
Key grape varieties
Only a small amount of white wine is made in the St-Émilion wine region. Merlot is the grape variety that has long been the mainstay of St-Émilion red wine, although the majority of Châteaux like to add a small amount of Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon to the blend. A well-made St-Émilion wine boasts an immediate appeal due to the inherently approachable nature of Merlot’s tannins. Of course, there are stylistic variances to be discovered among St-Émilion’s many labels, due to differing approaches to winemaking and terroir. At the core of every good example is a harmonious marriage of fruit, succulence, silky tannins and freshness. Saint-Émilion can transform a lacklustre dinner into a banquet. It is seemingly designed to sing at the dinner table.
Key sub-zones
The appellation has remarkable and diverse terroir. St-Émilion is very much marked by its soil: there are three key sub-zones within the appellation, each boasting a unique set of conditions that influence the final wine style.
Châteaux Chéval Blanc and Château Figeac
Two of Saint-Émilion’s most lauded estates are located on the western edge of the zone on the border with Pomerol. These iconic wineries and their neighbours enjoy a fine terroir composed of shallow sandy soils, overlaid with well-drained gravel beds. The wines from this part of Saint-Émilion tend to be the most powerfully structured, often incorporating more Cabernet Franc and occasionally Cabernet Sauvignon than their counterparts further east. Cabernet Franc’s and Cabernet Sauvignon’s hefty tannins need the warmer temperatures that flow from sandy-gravel terroir to ripen successfully. This is really the only part of Saint-Émilion where these grapes thrive.
Côtes Saint-Émilion
Conditions could not be more different in the vineyards that flank Saint-Émilion’s glorious town. Vines are planted on clay/limestone soils that offer good moisture retention in hotter vintages. Merlot has a real affinity with the Côtes, producing ripe, plump and velvety wine. The most coveted sites are located on the slopes that flank the southern tip of Saint-Émilion’s old town, largely immune to springs frost and bake in the morning sun.
Dordogne Valley
The third key terroir is the Coteaux or slopes that flow down towards the Dordogne Valley. Famous châteaux such as Pavie and Larcis-Ducasse make their home here. The soils are an eclectic mix of limestone, clay and sand, found between the famous Côtes and the gravelly terroir further west, terminating at the gates of Chéval Blanc. This is an epicentre of medium-bodied Saint-Émilion, renowned for its finesse and elegance. Merlot does not tend to reach the same levels of ripeness here. Yet the best wines are equal to those of the Côtes, albeit with a lower abv and intensity.
Montagne, Lussac, Puisseguin and Saint-Georges
Additionally, there are four ‘satellite’ appellations found to the northeast of the Saint-Émilion boundaries that are increasingly making excellent value wine. The Peripheries of the St-Émilion village are all permitted to carry the suffix of their great neighbour. The finest terroirs closely resemble that of the Saint-Émilion Côtes: calcareous soils that are able to ripen Merlot to voluptuous essences. Like its more famous cousin, the satellites generally produce Merlot-dominant wines, with a small percentage of Cabernet Franc and very occasionally some Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The best examples are soft, ripe and approachable, though they lack the structure of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wine. Nevertheless, these clay-limestone soils offer considerable viticultural potential.
Enjoying Saint-Émilion wine
Few growers are content with—or, indeed, willing to risk—making substandard wine. It has encouraged a universal desire to seek ever-higher standards. Only a tiny number of Saint-Émilion’s classified estates are marketing lacklustre wine today; it is without a doubt worth a winery visit.
The majority, though, are producing some of the most delicious, complex and velvety wine on earth. It has become one of the most reliable purchases in the Bordeaux region. Some bottles are very expensive indeed, but many more châteaux are competitively priced.
Chateau Pindefleurs from Chateau Pindefleurs delivers both value and quality; plum, cherry and strawberry mark the nose, while the palate is medium-bodied and very elegant. It offers all the hallmarks of a good Saint-Émilion wine. Alternatively, try a mature vintage of Chateau Simard – always a delight to drink. Tasting notes of woodsmoke, coffee, caramel and damson fill the glass. This special wine deserves five-star culinary treatment. Another great wine, Les Tours de Laroque, offers superb value and sweet, fruity aromas of damson and caramel. Broad, full-bodied and opulent, this could stand up to any meat dish. Finally, the 2016 Vieux Chateau Saint Andre, Montagne St. Emilion is very ripe and approachable, with a dense nose of black-cherry fruit, chocolate and spice. Rich, concentrated and powerfully structured, this is built to last. The sub-region is not a destination to miss on your upcoming Bordeaux wine tour.
Frequently asked questions
Is Saint-Émilion considered bordeaux?
Saint-Émilion is one of Bordeaux’s biggest sub-appellations. It is a ‘Bordeaux’ wine but it is under its own appellation.
Where in France is Saint-Émilion?
Saint-Émilion is located in south west France, just east of the city of Bordeaux.
How long does Saint-Émilion last?
Similarly to many Bordeaux wines, St-Émilion can be drunk, However, Premier Cru of the region can be aged in bottle for up to 30 years. Grand Crus of the region may last up to fifteen years. Once opened, enjoy your bottle within three days.
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