For over a century, the mere mention of the words ‘Chateau Lafite ‘or ‘Chateau Margaux’ has encouraged British consumers to speak in hushed tones and practically bow in reverence to these most luxurious of wine brands. Situated in two very famous and lauded Bordeaux appellations— Margaux and Pauillac—their pedigree is unquestionable. As a result, these mighty chateaux continue to elicit great excitement from critics and collectors worldwide.

Conversely, their close (and quality-focused) neighbours in Saint-Julien have historically lacked an equivalent reputation. When the legendary 1855 classification of Bordeaux’s leading producers was unveiled (ranked First to Fifth Growth), none of Saint-Julien’s chateaux were bestowed first division status. Yet this is only to the buyer’s advantage; the superlative wines of Saint-Julien are arguably the most consistent and reasonably priced in the whole of Bordeaux.

The appellation’s level-headed proprietors have conspired against allowing rampant price speculation in this corner of France. They want their vintages to be savoured with fine food, as opposed to being traded on the secondary market.

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Regional history and change

Today, Saint-Julien is something of an anomaly; a source of long-lived and exquisitely complex red wines that don’t cost the earth. It is a roll-call of excellence and congeniality.

Saint-Julien is situated in the central part of the Bordeaux region, with Margaux to the south and Pauillac to the north. Almost every patch of land in the appellation, created in 1936, is covered with vines. There are approximately 910 hectares under vine in Saint-Julien and 11 classified chateaux, including esteemed Second Growths like Ducru-Beaucaillou and Leoville Las Cases.

Journalists often single out Saint-Julien for several reasons, not least because of its consistency, and the fact that 80% of the vineyard area belongs to classified properties. This may sound suspiciously close to a disingenuous marketing pitch, but there is almost no bad wine made in Saint-Julien today.

The winemaking formula in the zone has scarcely been altered for over a century. Mirroring the philosophies of their colleagues in Margaux and Pauillac, Saint-Julien’s chateaux continue to prioritise the Cabernet Sauvignon grape in their red wines. There is a small volume of Bordeaux white made at Chateau Talbot and Lagrange, for example, but overall white grapes are noticeable by their absence.

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Grapes

A typical Saint-Julien wine is rarely mono-varietal and almost every winemaker likes to use Cabernet Franc and Merlot in the final blend. Less frequently, a dash of Petit Verdot will make it into the fermentation vat; rarer still (but not illegal) is the addition of the Carmenere and Malbec grapes. But that is almost unheard of.

The grape varieties are planted on an exceptional terroir, responsible for consistently ripening the appellation’s star trio without sacrificing freshness or acidity. Red grapes thrive in the warm gravel soils of Saint-Julien, with drainage provided by small streams or jalles. The maritime climate, heavily influenced by both the Atlantic currents and the close proximity of the estuary, tends to facilitate mild spring temperatures and a warm, but not distressingly arid, summer growing season. These are the conditions needed to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon’s formidable tannins to sufficiently high, but not excessive, levels of alcohol. Saint-Julien typically enjoys dry summers and usually escapes the hailstorms that can devastate berries in the Médoc. Grapes often ripen here at least two-three weeks before Moulis further west.

As throughout the wider Bordeaux region, Merlot is used to soften the inherently powerful structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and contribute suppleness and mouthfeel. Winegrowers also highly value the freshness and perfume that flows from the Cabernet Franc grape. Of course, each chateau will vary its blend depending on the vintage, but it is unusual to encounter a red wine from Saint-Julien without at least 60% Cabernet Sauvignon. When attempting to discern an overall stylistic trademark that unites every property in the appellation, critics often remark that Saint-Julien is a midway point between Margaux’s quintessential elegance and Pauillac’s renowned muscularity.

Wine styles and flavours

Above all, Saint-Julien is custom built for gastronomy. The balanced levels of alcohol and appetising cut of acidity that come so naturally to these wines can handle a wide range of dishes—everything from Comte cheese to braised lamb shank, rib eye steak and duck.

A young Saint-Julien wine may lack the structure of rivals from Pauillac, but it will inevitably be fruit-forward and a delight to drink. Youthful vigour will be matched by notes of blackberries, cassis, plum and raspberry. A mature Saint-Julien wine from the 1995 vintage, tasted in May 2020, offered a beguiling nose of eucalyptus, mint, cigar box, tobacco leaf and mocha. Top vintages from the best estates will develop and improve in bottle for at least 15-25 years.

There is a softness and fruit-driven approachability to Saint-Julien wines that facilitates relatively early drinking. This is partly due to the generous levels of ripeness inherent to the appellation’s terroir, and the healthy (often 30-40%) amount of Merlot added to the wines. The Merlot grape has many attributes, but a harsh/astringent structure is rarely one of them. This, combined with the generally moderate levels of alcohol, ensures that the hand always reaches for a second, third and fourth glass. Anthony Barton was spot on when he described “drinkability” as one of Saint-Julien’s virtues. Indeed, excruciating hangovers are seldom an inevitable consequence of imbibing too much Bordeaux wine.

But more importantly, Saint-Julien offers the consumer a reliable guarantee of consistent quality. Many of the world’s fine wine regions are in a state of flux. Climate change, evolving tastes and shifting demographics are forcing many winery owners to either re-evaluate their approach or sell up and move on. That is not to deny the importance of global investors in Saint-Julien, but there is an overall stability to the region that is reassuring. The mission statement of the appellation’s chateaux (namely, to produce high-quality wines at fair prices) has been in existence for over a century. It will likely remain that way for another hundred years.

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