In the mid-19th century, Australia’s smallest state had as many vineyards as New South Wales, and South Australia combined. Dynamic and prosperous, Victoria attracted legions of gold rush settlers in the 1850s, many of whom planted vines. The Australian territory was the most significant player in Australian viticulture at the time. Sadly, phylloxera, a vine pest, destroyed many of the state’s vineyards by the early 1900s. In fact, the Louse devastated vines across the globe from the mid-late 1800s. In light of this, Victoria is the third largest wine region in Australia to this day, and despite its size and has the highest number of wine producers compared to any other state in Australia.

Today, despite a sustained recovery, the Victorian wine region produces less than half as much wine as its neighbour South Australia. Yet it boasts 22 distinct wine regions with marked variances in climate and terroir; a mean summer temperature of 20 degrees in the Mornington Peninsula. This incredibly diverse part of Australia can offer an eclectic palate of wine styles, from Yarra Valley Chardonnay to Heathcote Shiraz.

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Geography and terroir

Victoria defies the stereotypes of endless sunshine and sweltering heat. Located in the southeast corner of the country the state’s capital Melbourne is renowned for its unpredictable and often very cool weather. Many of Victoria’s leading vineyard sites, including Mornington Peninsula, Geelong, and parts of Yarra Valley, found in the state’s southern reaches, enjoy a relatively cool maritime climate.

However, the thermometer rises as you move further inland and travel northeast, particularly in Rutherglen and Glenrowan. Nevertheless, the Australian wine region does not lack cool-climate terroir as higher elevations are frequently exploited to provide respite from the summer heat.

The state’s range of soils is no less diverse. The Grampians, situated northwest of Melbourne, is renowned for its metamorphic granite terroir. Meanwhile, the Bellarine Peninsula, south of Geelong, is replete with calcareous limestone and basalt. Heathcote has become famous for its “Cambrian Soils”, referring to the red soils created from the decomposition of local volcanic matter.

Key wine regions

Port Phillip

The bay of Port Phillip is a horseshoe-shaped bay on the central coast of southern Victoria. The state’s capital – Melbourne – sits at the epicentre, with a collection of high-profile wine regions surrounding the city.

Mornington Peninsula

Vines have been grown in the beautiful Mornington Peninsula since the late 1800s, although diminished to Phylloxera. Its fresh maritime climate makes the region well-suited to vine growth. Mornington’s most successful and popular export is undoubtedly Pinot Noir. The best wines are seductively perfumed and fresh, Victoria’s imitation of Burgundian Volnay. Meanwhile, the local Chardonnay and Pinot Gris are renowned for their crystalline structure and potent aromatics. The soils vary considerably from sand, loam and clay to igneous, nutrient-rich basalt.

Yarra Valley

The undulating landscape of Yarra Valley, to the northeast of Melbourne, is utterly breathtaking. The region’s 4,000 hectares now produce some of Australia’s top labels, including Yarra Yering and Yering Station. Critics rave about Yarra Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the best of which is cultivated on the elevated, southern end of the valley. Altitudes in the Yarra Valley can reach up to 500m, which helps to keep acidity levels vibrant. Soils also vary wildly: the south is defined by its red volcanic terroir; the northern section of the zone contains plenty of well-drained loam, sand and clay. The climate, meanwhile, offers wet winters and dry summers, owing to its proximity to the ocean. Australian Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon excel in the northern reaches of Yarra.

Macedon Ranges

Maritime breezes combined with an abundance of high elevation terroir, yield wines of incomparable finesse and perfume in this region. The early-ripening Pinot Noir is naturally the grape of choice, used to make excellent still and sparkling wine. In fact, achieving satisfactory levels of phenolic ripeness can even be a challenge in cooler vintages. Over 200 hectares are being cultivated in the Macedon Ranges today; most can be dry farmed. The soils here include sedimentary rock, shale and granite.

Geelong

Across Port Phillip Bay, opposite Melbourne, is the up-and-coming vineyard of Geelong. Geelong’s cool maritime climate delivers bright and fragrant wine. Indeed, both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive on the limestone and basalt soils of the zone, producing wines to mimic Burgundian styles.

Central Victoria

The warm climate of Central Victoria yields structured and powerful wines, including some brilliant Sangiovese.

Heathcote

Heathcote’s relatively cool-climate vineyards experience warm and dry summers moderated by the cooling air over the Camel Ranges. Vineyards are planted at relatively high altitudes to maintain freshness and acidity in the grapes. Today, Heathcote is renowned for its structured, fresh and aromatic Shiraz, in addition to velvety Sangiovese and Tempranillo.

Goulburn Valley

Parcels of Australian Shiraz and Marsanne have been cultivated here since the late 19th century. The valley’s pioneers were attracted to the warm climate and free-draining soils. The superior terroir of the Nagambie Lakes subzone has been awarded its own regional designation, otherwise known as GI. Red and white Rhône grapes produce exceptional wines in Goulburn Valley: rich and balanced by fresh acidity.

North East Victoria

Beechworth

Once a prosperous mining town, Beechworth is now associated with aromatic white wines and voluptuous reds. Warmer and drier than coastal Victoria, winegrowers, once again, use altitude to provide relief from the summer heat. The subregion also boasts highly favourable, mineral-rich granite and clay soils. Notable successes include Shiraz/Viognier blends, silky Gamay and Petit Manseng.

Rutherglen

Rutherglen continues to specialise in sweet, fortified wine. Situated in a very hot northeastern corner of Victoria, Rutherglen’s vineyards managed to survive the ravages of phylloxera. Its unique fortified wine styles are based on desiccated Muscat grapes, matured in oak barrels for many years.

Other key subregions

King/Alpine Valleys

Diurnal temperature variation is a vital feature of the King and Alpine Valleys; it helps maintain the grapes’ acidity. This natural advantage has been keenly exploited by investors, who continue to make fine sparkling wine from the Glera grape (used in Italian Prosecco). Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blends can also be sublime.

Grampians

Western Victoria’s most important subregion is undeniably the Grampians. It lies on the westernmost end of the Great Dividing Range. Peppery Shiraz is the area’s signature trademark, in addition to lime-scented Riesling. It is one of Australia’s most rewarding sources of limited-production, premium wine.

Key grape varieties

  • Chardonnay – some of Australia’s finest Chardonnay is made in Victoria, particularly in the cool-climate terroirs of Mornington Peninsula and Geelong.
  • Pinot Noir – it’s challenging to think of a wine region more suited to cultivating Pinot Noir than Victoria. Even the Burgundians must concede that Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley produce outstanding examples of the genre: perfumed and wonderfully fresh.
  • Cabernet Sauvignon –Cabernet Sauvignon – expect bright fruit, firm tannins, ripe acidity, and a surfeit of cassis from Victorian-grown Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • Shiraz – Yarra Valley Shiraz can equal Côte-Rôtie (northern Rhône) in elegance and complexity; the vivid red volcanic soils of Yarra and Heathcote yield trademark wines of incomparable depth and perfume.
  • Glera – the white grape responsible for Prosecco thrives in the cooler parts of Victoria, particularly in the King Valley. Beautiful aromas of pear drop and lemon leap out of the glass.

Enjoying Victoria wine

Victoria boasts Australia’s largest concentration of family-owned, artisan winery estates. Renowned for their creativity and willingness to experiment. That fact, combined with Victoria’s abundance of cool-climate terroir, has propelled the industry to greatness. In many ways, this is the most interesting, dynamic and varied of Australia’s wine regions; Try the iconic hand-made, silky smooth Pinot Noir. Alternatively, if you are looking for something more experimental, opt for a Victorian Tempranillo, Petit Manseng or Marsanne; they have every reason to be outstanding, while the best Nebbiolo grown in the Yarra Valley could stand up to critics from Piedmont.

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