A guide to Sicilian white wines

Unprecedented investment, hard graft and endless proselytising from pioneers like Andrea Franchetti have transformed the image of Sicilian wine, both red and white. Barolo’s Giovanni Rosso and US wine importer Marc de Grazia have also helped to draw international acclaim to Sicily’s eclectic range of delicious wine flavours.

Nonetheless, the grape that arguably made Sicily’s reputation abroad is Nero d’Avola. This red grape variety, planted all over the island, can produce wines of unrivalled perfume and concentrated black fruit. It has become a much-loved household name.

Yet it is Sicilian white wines that elicit the greatest astonishment. Wine importers and critics always ask the same question: how can a hot climate yield wines of such freshness and racy acidity?

Terroir

At first glance, Sicily’s terroir is almost totally unsuitable for the production of high-quality white wines. The Mediterranean’s largest island is rich in indigenous white grape varieties—and a smattering of imports—planted on incredibly diverse soils. They range from the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna to the calcareous fields of Noto in the south-east of the island. But the climate is overall conducive to long periods of drought, with torrid summers and temperatures regularly in excess of 35 degrees Celsius. As a result, irrigation is necessary for many Sicilian vineyards.

However, even sophisticated irrigation techniques cannot alter the realities of grape growing in such a hot region. The single most important quality that winegrowers cherish is balance. In the right conditions, a vine will produce a healthy amount of sugar from photosynthesis—a certain percentage of the carbohydrate will be surplus to its requirements for growth.

This surplus can then be used to ripen grapes. This optimally occurs at temperatures between 20-30 degrees Celsius. Sugar is accumulated in the berries, but not at the expense of acidity. Yet if the temperature rises too much above this level then vines use their carbohydrate stores for increased respiration. This leads to flabby wines that lack crisp acidity and ‘bite’. Excessive ripeness is the Achilles heel of vineyards situated closer to the equator.

But growers in Sicily have a secret weapon: altitude. In Sicily’s most famous sub-region, Mt. Etna, you’ll discover vineyards planted up to 1000 metres above sea level. This gives local winemakers a decisive advantage. Such high altitudes moderate the balmy summer heat, creating a patchwork of micro-climates ideal for the ripening of white grapes. Planted on cold soils, the lower temperatures ensure that sugar ripeness does not come at the expense of acidity. The average rainfall is far higher on the slopes of Etna, particularly on the eastern side.

Wine production

Sicilian wine producers also covet the benefits of significant discrepancies in day-to-night growing temperatures. Known as diurnal temperature variation, this is a key factor in producing concentrated yet refreshing white wines. Those who grow grapes in hot climes understand that a vine’s metabolism shuts down at temperatures below 10 degrees centigrade. Cold nights delay the onset of ripening, thus keeping acidity at desirable levels.

This diurnal variance is a hallmark aspect of viticulture in Mt. Etna. Sicily’s active volcano is a paradise for terroir-driven winemakers. Located on the north-eastern side of the island, Etna is arguably Europe’s most exciting wine frontier. It’s all here: igneous soils (including solidified magma) centenarian vines, high altitudes and different exposures. The prevailing winds also add a cooling touch to these spectacular vineyards.

Appellations

One of the most important white wine appellations in Sicily is undoubtedly Etna Bianco DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). It has become a hallmark producer of tangy, refreshing white wines of moderate alcohol. The signature grape variety is Carricante, now one of Sicily’s most prized exports. It thrives in vineyard sites found high above the village of Milo, located to the east of the summit.

In the best vintages—2018 was outstanding—Carricante offers pungent aromas of citrus, grapefruit, mint and thyme. Ageing into honeyed brilliance, there is always a saline note to good Carricante which keeps the wine both refreshing and appetising with grilled fish.

Of course, Mt. Etna does not hold a monopoly on superlative white wines. Sicily boasts numerous DOC designations, found across the east and west coasts of the island. In addition, many producers use the Terre Siciliane IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation. This allows Sicilian growers to market their wines under a regulatory framework that celebrates the value of experimentation. The IGT rules permit the blending of international and indigenous white grape varieties, in all manner of wonderful combinations.

There is also an equally popular DOC Sicilia. Blending is common in Sicilian wine culture, which is why the DOC appellation does not insist upon 100% varietal wines. For example, a DOC Sicilia white wine must only contain a minimum of 50% of one of the permitted varieties. These include Inzolia, Catarrato, Chardonnay, Grecanico Dorato and/or Grillo. Thereafter, there are almost endless permutations. Winemakers have experimented with blending the native Inzolia into a batch of Chardonnay, with impressive results. Butter meets pine nuts and lemon.

Growing in popularity are 100% Grillo wines, especially in the west of the island. Another of Sicily’s indigenous gems, Grillo has been a vital part of the fortified wine style Marsala for centuries. Grillo is predominately found in the far west of the island, around the town of Trapani, in vineyards cooled by sea breezes and altitude. Traditionally blended with Inzolia and the native Catarratto, it also shines as a standalone varietal wine. It has adapted to Sicily’s terroir with aplomb; Grillo always maintains its acidity, even in hot climates. Typically imbued with a saline quality, Grillo is often racy and full-bodied, with flavours of hazelnuts, citrus and lanolin. Pinot Grigio has also found a welcome home in coastal vineyard sites. And there’s always competition in Sicily—the relentless drive to explore new territory and plant new varieties.

Wine styles and taste

In the south-eastern tip of the island, the calcareous soils of the Iblei Mountains are yielding brilliant white wines of structure and concentration. Wineries like Marabino have enjoyed great success with their IGT Chardonnay, produced in the sub-zone of Noto. Historically, strong and sweet Muscat-based wines were made in the Noto valley, although the style is no longer in vogue. Nevertheless, the Planeta family rescued Moscato di Noto from oblivion and helped to popularise dry Muscat wines. Pungently aromatic, they are largely consumed on the island.

The Malvasia wines produced in Sicily’s Aeolian islands are even less well-known. Traditionally made into sweet wine, dry Malvasia is today labelled as IGT Salina. With aromas of lychee, rose petal and grapefruit, it is rarely a subtle experience. But Malvasia works exceptionally well with spice-infused dishes from Vietnam and Thailand. It tolerates chilli and heat in cooking like no other Sicilian grape variety.

Is there a unifying characteristic that pulls together Sicily’s eclectic range of white wines? The island’s diverse palate of micro-climates, soils and grape varieties makes this a difficult task. Quality standards are generally very high, but stylistic variances are significant. The few points of consistency revolve around vineyard sites—all of Sicily’s best zones benefit from cooling influences—and a saline quality that comes naturally to local viticulture. Moreover, due to their expressive fruit quality, the wines are always approachable upon release. Sicily’s native grapes create the most food-friendly white wines on the planet. Seafood, white meat, risotto, cream, and tomato-based pasta sauces—they all work.

The only problem is narrowing your search. In Sicily, individuals mean as much as appellations, sometimes more. A less exalted designation can still yield exceptional wine, if the producer is a master of his/her craft. Equally, famous appellations can sometimes host lazy winemakers. In the end, insider knowledge is invaluable.