How to choose a wine from the Rhône Valley
The Rhône Valley wine region is a gift to oenophiles. It produces an astonishing amount of high-quality red, white and rosé wines, available at all price points. There are single-vineyard cuvées from Côte-Rôtie that sell for lavish sums at auction, while delicious bottles of Côtes du Rhône are available for less than £20. Its signature trademark caters to all palates, expectations and preferences.
Yet navigating this mosaic of Rhône wine styles can be overwhelming. There are more than 20 appellations in the wine region, encompassing many villages, sub-zones and individual vineyards. In Bordeaux, there are long-established classification systems that rank individual French wine estates, helping the consumer navigate many options. Meanwhile, Burgundy enforces a strict land hierarchy, with all vineyards ranked according to the perceived quality of the wines they produce. This also helps the enthusiast to make an informed choice. However, there are no equivalent frameworks in the Rhône Valley.
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Buying into the Rhône Valley
Although the Rhône lacks a codified ranking of vineyards (or wineries), valuable facts and pointers can help to simplify the buying process. The first key information is that the wine region is divided into Northern and Southern Rhône. The Syrah grape is the signature red variety of the Northern Rhône Valley, producing elegant and structured wines in famous appellations like Hermitage. In contrast, growers in the warmer and drier Southern Rhône Valley typically produce Grenache-dominant red wines, often blended with smaller amounts of Syrah and Mourvedre. White Rhône wine is either based on 100% Viognier (Condrieu and Château-Grillet in the Northern Rhône) or blends typically involve Marsanne/Roussanne and other grape varieties like Grenache Blanc.
Quality in the Rhône
Understanding the hierarchy that divides the Rhône’s major appellations is relatively straightforward. The quality pyramid starts with Côtes du Rhône AOC. Unlike many AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) designations, it is not restricted to one delimited geographical area. It is a catch-all appellation that applies to red, white and rosé wines made in both the Northern and Southern Rhône. As we Climb the pyramid, the next tier is Côtes du Rhône-Villages, which covers wines (all three colours) produced in 95 communes, all in the south.
Other than geography, what divides Rhône Valley wine marketed under the Côtes du Rhône AOC and Côtes du Rhône-Villages designations? Côtes du Rhône-Villages wines will come from a terroir that is considered superior due to the soil structure, aspect or drainage. In addition, as you ascend the quality curve, the appellation rules become more stringent. For example, growers are permitted to harvest more grapes in the Côtes du Rhône than in Gigondas, an appellation with demarcated boundaries. This matters because it is widely agreed that lower yields enhance the quality of wines, especially red. Of course, certain growers working under the Côtes du Rhône appellation may decide to rise above the minimum quality requirements. The top producers can make good wines regardless of the official ranking. Indeed, they relish the challenge.
Côtes du Rhône/Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC
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Côtes du Rhône AOC |
Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC |
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Signature red grape varieties |
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Signature white grape varieties |
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| Wine region |
Available to growers in 47 communes across the Northern Rhône and 124 in the Southern Rhône. |
Available to growers in 95 communes, only in the Southern Rhône. |
| Key regulations |
The maximum yield for Côtes du Rhône wines is 60 hectolitres per hectare. Red Southern Rhône wines must contain a minimum of 40% Grenache and may contain up to 5% white grapes. A red from anywhere in the appellation must contain a minimum of 15% Syrah and/or Mourvedre. |
The maximum yield for Côtes du Rhône Villages wines is 44 hectolitres per hectare. Red wines must contain at least 40% Grenache Noir with 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. A maximum of 20% of other authorised grape varieties is permitted. |
| Minimum alcohol |
11% |
12% |
Named villages and ‘crus’
As we scale the quality hierarchy, the land entitled to produce wines marketed under the appellation banner becomes more strictly delimited. After Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC, the next tier involves 22 villages that have earned the right to append their names to the standard ‘Côtes du Rhône-Villages’ classification (such as Côtes du Rhône Villages Chusclan).
Labels that reference the individual village name must use grapes cultivated within the boundaries of that commune. The 22 villages were promoted (at different time points) after the authorities did extensive studies of the local terroir, demonstrating that it could produce superior wines. In addition, the maximum permitted yield for these village wines is 41 hectolitres per hectare under vine. Specific village appellations only produce red wine, while others like Visan are entitled to market red, rosé and white wine.
The top of the pyramid brings us to the finest wines (red and white) made in the Rhône today. The most famous appellations are attached to the so-called ‘crus’ of the Rhône—named villages with a longstanding record of exceptional wine production. The labels do not contain any reference to ‘Côtes-du-Rhônes Villages.’ The reputation of these iconic winegrowing communes, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, speaks for itself. There are eight cru villages in the Northern Rhône: Côte-Rôtie/Côte Brune, Condrieu, Château-Grillet, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitages, Hermitage, Cornas and Saint-Péray. In the south, there are: Vinsobres, Rasteau, Cairanne, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes-de-Venise, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tavel, and Lirac.
Growers belonging to these appellation frameworks must comply with the rules enforced in the Rhône Valley. These include maximum yield, permitted grape varieties and minimum alcohol. For example, every red wine labelled as Hermitage must contain at least 80% Syrah (no other red grapes are allowed). A small percentage of Marsanne/Roussanne can be incorporated into the blend if the grower desires. Anything else is forbidden.
The Rhône’s unofficial vineyard hierarchy
Over the past 20 years, several European regions have gone down the vineyard classification route, creating hierarchies that, in some instances, resemble the long-established Burgundy model. Austrian and German winegrowers making premium wine have invested considerable resources into ranking their top vineyards. Some argue this creates added value in the eyes of consumers. The name of an individual vineyard will be referenced on the label under official sanction.
Yet growers in the Rhône Valley have so far resisted the temptation to rank their best (vineyard sites) in a codified manner. Perhaps they feel there is no need? After all, an unofficial list of superior vineyards in certain appellations has existed for over a century. Although this has never been formally recognised, winemakers can reference the cru name on the label if the fruit is sourced from that particular site. Similarly, renowned Côte-Rôtie producer Guigal markets a range of single-vineyard wines, including La Mouline and La Turque. They are among the most expensive and prestigious Syrah wines made in the Rhône today.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s unofficial ‘Grand Cru’ is called La Crau. Situated to the east of the village, every grower recognises the superior terroir of this sacred site. Large galets roulés (stones) sit atop moist red clay, the most water-retentive soil in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Red wines from La Crau have the most refined tannins, concentration and depth of flavour. If you see the vineyard name mentioned on a label, you’re being offered a guarantee of superlative quality.
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