A deep dive into wine from South Australia: McLaren Vale

In 1838, John Reynell planted South Australia's first vines in the rural expanse of McLaren Vale. Over the years, it has evolved into a viticultural powerhouse in the Fleurieu Zone (named after the Fleurieu Peninsula), which stretches from Adelaide Hills to Kangaroo Island. Historically, the wine region was heavily associated with rich, alcoholic and occasionally overbearing reds - indispensable during BBQ season. But this archetype is no longer representative of the critical mass: winemakers across McLaren Vale are producing fresh and balanced wines. Consumers relish the depth and perfume of centenarian Grenache vines, with intense aromas of raspberry and garrigue. There is real quality in some unexpected places in McLaren Vale. Saperavi, Nero d'Avola, and Primitivo all thrive in the wine region.

Climate, geography and terroir

McLaren Vale is a very advantageous place to grow vines for several reasons. Situated just 22 miles south of Adelaide CBD, the Mediterranean climate produces full-bodied white wine and red wines with plenty of fruit and soft tannins. Yet growing conditions are far from homogenous in McLaren Vale: proximity to the ocean negates the risk of frost attacks for certain vineyard sites during the spring, while maritime breezes help to keep wines fresh and vibrant in the hotter months. It is quite a densely packed region. Over 80 different wineries are based here, growing a diverse portfolio of grapes. However, most agree that red varieties are McLaren Vale's crown jewel. Both the varying topography and soil play an important role in determining wine style. In the northern section of the zone around Blewitt Springs, deep sandy soils and clay yield perfumed and concentrated Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Due to the vineyard's low elevation, diurnal temperature variation is minimal: wines from this terroir never lack weight. Conversely, the subzone of Kangarilla, further east, produces a lighter interpretation of Shiraz due to the moderating effects of higher altitude. Likewise, the vineyards of Willunga, located in a southeastern corner of the McLaren Vale wine region, are known to ripen later than most sites in McLaren Vale.

Key grape varieties

• Cabernet Sauvignon - McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon could be argued to be among the best in Australia. Top labels are ripe and fruit-forward, with sophisticated tannins and aromas of mocha and cassis.
• Grenache - Rhône varieties excel in McLaren Vale, producing elegant and aromatic wines in the warm Mediterranean climate. Grenache is no exception: McLaren Vale wine is perfumed and silky, with flavours of raspberry, thyme, and violets.
• Shiraz - Old-vine Shiraz is one of the region's major trump cards; McLaren Vale interpretations lean heavily towards ripeness and concentration, although they are backed up with good acidity. Higher-elevation sites will showcase flavours of tapenade and pepper. However, McLaren Vale Shiraz offers a palate of damson and blackberry in warmer zones.
• Sagrantino - Italy's Sagrantino grape is highly valued in McLaren Vale for its beautiful acidity and savoury aromas of garrigue, leather and dried cherry. The best wines are powerfully structured, with a mineral undertow and lovely freshness.
• Chardonnay - Only the coolest sites in McLaren Vale can do this grape justice. However, the best wines can be exceptional: fruit-driven Chardonnay with a touch on new oak and buttery opulence is the trademark in McLaren Vale.

Top McLaren Vale wine styles and labels

McLaren Vale possesses the key components to excel in the South Australian wine industry. The region is dynamic and diverse, with premium raw materials. Indeed, the wine region boasts several parcels of old bush vines, including centenarian plantings. Maintaining low yields of these intensely flavoured grapes is necessary for achieving the highest quality of fine wine. This incredible potential is harnessed by a diverse cross-section of producers, ranging from conglomerates to small growers and family-owned winery businesses. However, the area's most renowned winery is undoubtedly Hardy's (by Thomas Hardy); they market a considerable volume of high-quality, fruit-forward wine. Nevertheless, there is plenty of excitement to be found elsewhere. Chapel Hill winery and Wirra Wirra make excellent wines, using a range of different grape varieties, notably Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Other producers have demonstrated that alternative imports such as Sagrantino and Primitivo can thrive in the McLaren Vale's Mediterranean climate. Iberian grapes are also showing great promise, especially Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional. The best of this expanding firmament is luxuriously velvety, with beautiful tannins. There are plenty of other winery labels to explore in McLaren Vale, including, Hugh Hamilton Wines, Stephen Pannell and Gemtree Estate. The latter is one of Australia's most eco-friendly wineries. Gemtree's cellar door was built using recycled materials, while solar panels provide clean and renewable energy for the estate. Innovation and sustainability are top priorities in McLaren Vale.

What does McLaren Vale have to offer?

McLaren Vale has always been associated with red wine. There is, of course, a small volume of excellent white wine made in the McLaren Vale region today – particularly from Vermentino and Roussanne/Marsanne – but its volume dwindles compared to the output of red styles. This is South Australia's leading producer of intense yet balanced Shiraz, spicy Grenache and powerful (yet balanced) Cabernet Sauvignon. McLaren Vale wine could rival the best of Barossa Valley or Eden Valley. These wines will also transform a meal into a banquet: venison, well-hung game and slow-cooked ox cheek are sublime with GSM blends. You must also try McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon with a roast lamb; it would be a challenge to go amiss. Find a McLaren Vale wine today!

What to read next

A deep dive into wine from South Australia: Barossa Valley A deep dive into wine from South Australia: Eden Valley An overview of wine from South Australia A guide to wine from Western Australia A guide to wine from New South Wales