Buying the best of Chianti

Vineyards in the Chianti hills have been the mainstay of Tuscan viticulture for centuries; references to the geographical limits of Chianti production were first made in the 1700s.

Yet the region’s most important milestones have all occurred during the past 37 years. In 1984, an expansive sea of vineyards that constitute greater Chianti and its various sub-regions was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status. This is a classification given only to Italy’s premier wine zones. Membership of the DOCG club requires compliance with rules governing the maximum permitted yield and a requirement for minimum ageing. Many hundreds of producers market wines labelled as Chianti DOCG, cultivating vines in a large area of central Tuscany which includes the provinces of Pisa and Pistoia.

Like Rioja, the Chianti region plays host to highly skilled and dedicated winemakers, in addition to a few lacklustre outfits. There are effortless vintages, and there are challenging years like 2017. Most importantly of all, the wider region boasts a sub-zone widely considered the best in Chianti: the Chianti Classico area. First delineated in the 18th century, it has expanded to become one of Italy’s most reputable sources of fine wine. Its closest rival is Chianti Rufina, a sub-zone located east of Florence. At its best, Chianti Rufina is a delicious and age-worthy red wine worthy of high praise.

But Chianti Classico is still considered to be the apex of Tuscan wine. It is the most heavily visited piece of bucolic ambrosia in Italy, conveniently situated between Florence and Siena. Both Chianti and Chianti Classico were awarded DOCG status in 1984, however, the Chianti Classico DOCG was modified in 2006 to distinguish it from other Chianti sub-zones. The new rules prohibited growers from adding white grapes into their predominately red blends, a historically standard practice in central Tuscany. In contrast, Chianti DOCG wines may contain up to 10% Malvasia or Trebbiano. Many of Chianti Classico’s leading winemakers insist that you cannot make superlative red wines with even a hint of Trebbiano. Since 2006, the law agrees with them.

Chianti production process

After harvest, every wine producer in Chianti Classico must make a series of important decisions. One of the most personal concerns the composition of the final blend: Chianti Classico must contain a minimum of 80% Sangiovese. However, the rules permit the addition of a maximum of 20% of ancillary grapes such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Varietal choice is a subject that always divides winemakers. One school of thought argues that Chianti Classico must only contain 100% Sangiovese to be authentic. Others believe that the addition of varieties like Merlot can enhance complexity. This debate will run and run.

The relative merits of French oak versus Italian chestnut and the corollary question over maturation time is another hot topic. Apart from the subject of French grapes in Tuscan soil, nothing raises heckles like the topic of ageing Chianti Classico in French barrique. Both Riojan and Tuscan winemakers have been accused of excessive reliance on the powerful, if sometimes overwhelming flavours of new French oak (think lashings of vanilla, spice, and cedarwood). As a result, a growing firmament of producers relies on larger, older vessels like Slavonian oak. The flavours will be more subtle, the fruit more obvious.

Chianti Classico’s regulations permit a free choice concerning the selection of vessel, but are unwavering about enforcing minimum ageing requirements. The ‘standard’ classification of Annata is given to Chianti Classico wines aged for a minimum of 12 months before release. Climb up the

pyramid and you’ll reach the Riserva category, which is matured for at least 24 months prior to being bottled. The most prestigious tier is called Gran Selezione. Produced in the best vintages and from a grower’s most impeccable grapes, the wines must be aged for a duration of 30 months. Both Riserva and Gran Selezione labels must be aged for an additional period of three months in bottle before they are sold.

Of course, certain winemakers elect to age their top labels for far longer—the base-level requirements do not impose a maximum limit. Leading estates often release a small volume of Gran Selezione wines that have been aged for five to seven years, prior to being commercialised. This is the wine industry at its most charmingly atavistic. Longer ageing in wood imbues top-end wines with an inimitable complexity, structure and mouthfeel. They are a gift to wine lovers, but an accountant’s version of Dante’s Inferno. No other luxury commodity industry holds on to its stock for so long. It would be far more financially pragmatic to release all Chianti Classico wine six months after the previous harvest. But that is not Tuscany’s style. The best wines are built to last; earning a fast buck is not a cultural norm in Chianti Classico.

The vital importance of Chianti’s raw materials also deserves a closer examination. If ageing plays a vital role in shaping nuance, then grape varieties lay the essential foundations. Chianti Classico is primarily Sangiovese country. Italy’s most planted grape shares the undulating landscape with ‘invaders’ like Cabernet Sauvignon, but Sangiovese is undoubtedly the cornerstone of high-quality winemaking in central Tuscany. It varies in body and flavour like no other red grape. Poor quality Sangiovese can be light and tart, especially in wet vintages. Flip the coin and you’ll discover a full-bodied, rich and voluptuous wine style in hotter years. Young wines typically boast aromas of red and black cherry, dancing alongside plum and raspberry. With patience, Sangiovese evolves greatly in the bottle, offering gorgeously complex notes of damson, prunes, and forest floor. The best wines made in top vintages can age for decades after their commercial release. Yet most Chianti Classico is very drinkable and approachable within two to three years after the harvest.

There is no right or wrong approach to maturing Chianti: Annata wines aged for the minimum period of 12 months before bottling are fruit-driven, often beautiful wines. Yet in a zeitgeist where life and business are conducted at a lightning-fast pace, there is something undeniably romantic about allowing certain wines to mature for longer. Whatever your preferences, our guide outlines some of the options available to you.

Ageing Chianti Classicos: Riservas and Gran Selezione wines

Chianti Classico’s price hierarchy

Although they’re not exactly giving it away, Chianti Classico remains fantastically good value. Even the best Riserva and Gran Selezione labels are rarely ludicrously expensive. This is due to several reasons: Chianti does not attract the hype of Bordeaux and Burgundy; the wines are not made in tiny volumes; and the region’s winegrowers strongly discourage an avaricious mentality. A brilliant bottle of Chianti Classico Annata can be yours for under £25. A good Riserva might run to £35, or perhaps £40. But that’s still a fair trade.

The cream of the crop, Gran Selezione, naturally demands the highest prices. This is understandable, as the winery holds on to stock for several years before it can recuperate its costs. Nevertheless, this is a contract that greatly benefits the consumer, as much as the brand. Many of the top-tier Gran Selezione wines are still marketed at under £60—this would be unthinkable among first division Pauillac or Chambertin.