Comparing Burgundy and Bordeaux wine

To the untrained eye, Bordeaux and Burgundy have much in common. France’s two eminent wine regions produce red and white wines of great renown, with collectors paying astronomical sums for the most famous labels of Pauillac and Chambertin.

Yet the approaches and attitudes towards wine production (particularly the subject of blending) and grape varieties in these regions are very different. In addition, Bordeaux’s classification frameworks bear little resemblance to Burgundy’s strict vineyard hierarchy. Bordeaux makes about five times more wine than Burgundy, while many growers in the Côte d’Or release only a few hundred cases of wine a year. Learning about these differences can empower the wine lover to make an informed choice.

Burgundy vs Bordeaux: an overview

Geography and climate

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is the largest fine wine region on earth. Over 115,000 hectares of vines are dedicated to the production of red, white, rosé, sparkling and dessert wine styles, planted in a diverse mosaic of sub-regions and appellations. The wines of Bordeaux have traditionally been split into ‘Left Bank’ (Medoc, Graves) and ‘Right Bank’ (Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and their immediate neighbours).

Bordeaux city is on the left bank of the Garonne River. The Medoc is one of Bordeaux’s most famous geographical zones, an expanse of flat land sandwiched between the Atlantic and the Gironde estuary. The vast majority of Medoc wines are based on Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends, a grape that thrives on the gravel terroir of the Left Bank.

South of Bordeaux are the legendary appellations of Graves and Sauternes, the latter renowned for its sweet wines. To the east are the villages of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, located on the right bank of the Dordogne. Merlot is the mainstay of viticultural life in these two appellations, producing velvety and opulent reds of real class and distinction.

Although there are variances in macro and micro-climate across Bordeaux, overall the region enjoys a temperate maritime climate with warm, humid summers and mild winters. However, the proximity of the Atlantic means that the possibility of a downpour is never far away. The variability of Bordeaux’s climate means that in some years growers will harvest a generous crop of ripe and full-bodied wines, while certain vintages are a real struggle.

Spring and summer can often see high levels of humidity, requiring constant vigilance from the winegrower. Spring frosts are another worry for winemakers; in 2017 and 2021, certain growers lost a substantial part of their crop due to unseasonably cold weather.

Burgundy

Burgundy is very complex and expansive. It plays host to several important sub-regions, including the white wine heartland of Chablis and the iconic Pinot Noir villages of the Côte de Nuits. The wider region stretches for over 137 miles, running from Chablis in the Yonne province to the southern limit of Beaujolais. The best vineyards are planted on marlstone—clay soils with varying amounts of calcium carbonate, rich in minerals.

Like Bordeaux, weather patterns can vary enormously depending on the sub-region. In Chablis, for example, the threat of spring frost attacks is a constant headache. However, this is less of a concern in the warmer macro-climate of the Mâconnais, located further south. In addition, the Côte d’Or is warmer than the Côte Chalonnaise and its grapes tend to ripen earlier.

Generally, Burgundy enjoys a continental climate defined by cold winters and (relatively) dry summers. Burgundy is both cooler and sunnier than Bordeaux, with colder winters. However, Burgundy enjoys a decisive advantage during the vintage time, as there are fewer grapes to harvest and varieties to manage. Bordeaux wine estates are generally large-scale farms, harvesting potentially five-six red and white varieties over three-four weeks

Viticulture and wine style

There are significant variances in winemaking philosophy, vineyard ownership, classification systems, wine style and labelling in Burgundy and Bordeaux.

Grape varieties and blends

In terms of grape varieties, Bordeaux and Burgundy have little in common. Red Bordeaux wines are typically blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc—the exact composition varies depending on the appellation. In addition, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carmenere are permitted in famous appellations like Pauillac, although the last two are seldom used in the blends.

Bordeaux whites are often based on a mixture of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and perhaps Muscadelle. There are exceptions: Pavillon Blanc from Chateau Margaux is mono-varietal. But overall, blending grapes is a vital insurance policy against the possibility of one (or more) varieties failing to ripen in a difficult growing season. Growers also argue that blending enhances complexity.

In contrast, winemakers in Burgundy almost never blend grape varieties (two major exceptions are the production of sparkling crémant, and Bourgogne Passetoutgrain). In the majority of appellations, only one grape variety is permitted. The winegrowing culture in Burgundy emphasises terroir expression; the most expensive wines are always made from single-vineyards. From a winegrower’s perspective, it is ridiculous to distort terroir by blending-in wines from a different vineyard or sub-region. This winemaking philosophy has been in place for centuries and is unlikely to change anytime soon.

Classification systems

Bordeaux chateaux names function as brand names. They are the main consumer reference point for buying wine. The region also employs several classification systems that rank individual estates, the most famous being the 1855 Left Bank classification and the Saint-Émilion ranking.

In Burgundy, it is the land that is classified and not the winemaker or their estate. It is a classification based on geographical possibility, taking into account the particular attributes of each plot of land. The groundwork was laid by the religious establishment, who owned much of the land in Burgundy during the Middle Ages. Historians agree that the Cistercian monks spent many decades delineating Burgundy’s vineyards according to their quality and character. Vineyards were eventually categorised into four tiers: Grand Cru; Premier Cru; Village; and a generic Bourgogne Blanc/Rouge.

This remained the reference point even after the land was transferred wholesale into private hands. However, ownership was still very fragmented, with the ultimate owner letting to local merchants, who then employed tenanted farmers to work the land. As a result, Burgundy has long been a region of small producers, owning parcels of land across different appellations. While there are a number of monopolies in Burgundy, most vineyards are divided up among a number of different proprietors. Wine labels reflect this; producers in Bordeaux seldom reference vineyards on the bottle, which is a standard practice in Burgundy.

Wine style

It is difficult to make generalisations about Burgundy and Bordeaux due to enormous variances in terroir. Yet it is often the case that Bordeaux red wines have more body and tannin due to the grapes used. Pinot Noir is a lighter grape variety than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, yielding medium-bodied wines with attractive red fruit flavours. The leading Bordeaux estates make wines that can age for a century or more if the vintage conditions allow. Burgundy cannot rival this in longevity. However, Pinot Noir can usually be enjoyed at a younger age. It very much depends on what your priorities are.

In a sense, white Bordeaux and Burgundy wines have much in common; both can be drunk at a relatively young age, yet they can improve in bottle for a decade or more. The flavour profile will depend on the specific appellation and producer, but you should expect an aromatically complex and structured wine. White Burgundy is usually a mono-varietal dry style, while Bordeaux winemakers like to blend Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle.