A guide to Burgundy’s main grapes
The Burgundy wine region is associated with two main grape varieties: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Yet the wines of Burgundy are far more than simply a varietal expression of the grapes planted. The singular flavour and scent of a good Burgundy wine are due to the complex relationship between terroir, climate and varietal. Terroir (the unique characteristics of a particular vineyard) can encompass many factors including micro-climate, rainfall, sunlight, aspect, elevation and drainage. All these elements react with each other to greatly influence what ends up in your glass.
Grape varieties play an important role in Burgundy. There is undeniably a close relationship between the flavour of any wine and the raw materials from which it is made.
However, it would be a mistake to believe that Pinot Noir has the same flavour profile wherever it is grown in the Burgundy region. Pinot Noir from the Côte Chalonnaise tastes quite different to the wines of Chambertin. Chablis (exclusively based on the Chardonnay grape) hardly resembles the white wines of the Mâconnais. Understanding the nuances of Burgundy’s key grape varieties can bring us one step closer to demystifying France’s most enigmatic vineyards.
Pinot Noir
The signature red grape of Burgundy is responsible for electrifying auction houses worldwide. Bottles of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (DRC) often command prices in excess of £20,000 on the secondary market, as the cult surrounding the top red wines of Burgundy is unparalleled.
Pinot Noir has been cultivated in Burgundy’s soils for many centuries. There are several legends as to how it arrived in the region; certain growers believe that a Celtic tribe, known as the Aeduli, are responsible for its circulation. The legend states that the Aeduli (ancestors of today’s Burgundians) were seduced by the wines of Lombardy and invaded Italy to control cultivation and production. They brought one such grape, Pinot Noir, back to Burgundy with them.
Other viticultural historians argue that Pinot Noir has always been indigenous to Burgundy. A third theory is that the establishment of a Greek colony in Marseilles in about 600 BC saw the gradual dissemination of varieties taken from the Middle East by the seafaring civilization. All we know for certain is that wine was made in Burgundy from about 200 AD, and the first recorded mention of the Pinot Noir grape occurred in the late 14th century.
Of course, the grape is emblematic of the Burgundy region today. It is planted throughout the Côte d’Or, where it thrives on the calcareous terroir of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Under the rules that govern every appellation specific to these two sub-regions, only Pinot Noir can be used to make red wines. There is a designation called Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which allows Pinot Noir to be blended with different varieties cultivated across the wider region.
At its best, red Burgundy is a wine of incomparable finesse, perfume and depth. Unfortunately, Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to grow. It is a temperamental variety, sensitive to cold during flowering and prone to rot if the weather turns inclement. It is also very sensitive to overproduction, yielding dilute wines if the winegrower harvests an excessive crop. Much also depends on the vagaries of a particular growing season, as Pinot Noir is very susceptible to temperature as it reaches the end of its maturation process. In cool and wet vintages, only the best vineyard sites will produce good wine. Nor does Pinot Noir like hot climates; although the variety will ripen with relative ease if there is an abundance of heat and warmth, it tends to yield coarse and nondescript wine.
Success with this challenging varietal offers unparalleled rewards. Young Pinot Noir wines burst with the fragrance of crushed red fruit and cherry. The tannins are usually approachable from the outset, with a silky quality that defines all great Burgundy. The majority of red wine from the Côte d’Or is aged in French oak, adding structure and flavours of vanilla, coffee and cedarwood. Wines made in good vintages can age for decades, revealing tertiary aromas of game, damson, blackberry and cigar-box. The best red Burgundies have a sensuality and ethereal charm that has no equal. They are simply magical.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay’s varietal character is expressed in many forms across the Burgundy region. It is responsible for the steely wines of Chablis, the buttery and ripe wines of the Mâconnais and the legendary Grand Crus of the Côte de Beaune.
It varies enormously in style. A quintessential Chablis wine is defined by ripe acidity, with telltale aromas of minerals, oyster shells and citrus. Moving south into the Côte d’Or, the flavours become rounder and riper, offering notes of peach, hazelnuts (particularly in Meursault), apricot and melon. All great Chardonnay wines from the Côte de Beaune are a harmonious blend of fruit and oak, held in perfect balance by the acid line.
Like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay is an integral part of Burgundy’s wine culture. It is exclusively responsible for the white wines of Chablis, the Mâconnais and the Côte d’Or, while only a tiny percentage of white wine made in the Côte Chalonnaise does not involve Chardonnay. Geographical variation will greatly influence the wine style, as will choices made by the winemaker. Almost every white wine made in the Côte d’Or will be aged in oak barrels before release, as Chardonnay has a natural affinity with the flavours of oak. Many growers in Chablis prefer to let the fruit speak for itself and eschew oak maturation—there is no right or wrong approach. Diversity is the beauty of white Burgundy.
Unlike Pinot Noir, Chardonnay is a very flexible and forgiving grape variety. It is less prone to grey rot than its red cousin, and will grow successfully in a range of climates and soil types. That being said, Chardonnay has a particular affinity with limestone-rich soils. In addition, hot climate Chardonnay can occasionally veer into overripe territory, lacking the freshness and poise of all great white Burgundy. It would be unfair to claim that the Burgundy region holds a monopoly on high-quality Chardonnay wines, although it is generally agreed that the finest emanate from the Côte d’Or. Only here can winemakers seemingly achieve that delicate balancing act, matching concentration and depth with sufficient acidity to craft a moreish and stylish wine. The most famous climats of Burgundy, such as the Grand Crus Montrachet and Chevalier Montrachet, sell for princely sums at auction. They have few rivals in the world of fine wine.
Other grape varieties
The Burgundy region has a surprise or two up its sleeve. Aligoté is a little-known white variety that reaches an apogee in the village of Bouzeron, in the Côte Chalonnaise. Producing light, citric wines with racy acidity, Aligoté is unfortunately prone to overcropping. Yet if the variety is cultivated on limestone-heavy soils, its natural vigour will be curtailed, producing a more concentrated and stylish wine. Growers distinguish between two strains of Aligoté: Vert and Doré. It is said that the latter should be used to make superior wine.
Sauvignon Blanc, the signature grape of the Loire Valley, also makes an appearance. There is a small amount planted in the appellation of Saint-Bris to the north of the Côte d’Or in the Yonne district. The wines are generally drinkable and fruit-driven, reminiscent of Touraine. In addition, certain growers use the Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet) variety to make crisp and refreshing white wine. Growers also blend the variety to make a local sparkling, called Cremant. Even rarer in Burgundy is the Pinot Gris variety, prolific to the Alsace region. Certain growers in the Côte d’Or maintain a few parcels largely as a hobby. There are also a few sites planted to Pinot Blanc.
The town of Irancy lies 10 kilometres southeast of Auxerre. Its small band of growers champion a red variety that is rarely exported: César. Capable of making tannic and robust wine, César is often blended with Pinot Noir grown in the Irancy appellation, to boost its colour and alcohol.
However, the most important red variety after Pinot Noir in Burgundy is definitely Gamay. Used to make Beaujolais in all its guises, the Gamay grape is very much a chameleon. Stylistically, it ranges from light and insubstantial to concentrated and structured. The best wines offer ripe aromas of crushed red fruits, with notes of violets and rose petals. With age, more tertiary flavours will emerge: sour cherry, black pepper and a whiff of garrigue. Despite the vagaries of fashion, Gamay has retained a global fan base, due to its typically soft and approachable tannins. Almost every Beaujolais wine can be enjoyed without delay.