Until (relatively) recently, Italian still wine exports were dominated by the exceptional red wines of Barolo, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco. The nation’s unremarkable selection of white wine styles were consumed quietly and largely domestically until the end of the 20th century. A notable exception is Pinot Grigio, which has been popular in the UK for decades. Yet the country lacked a high-quality equivalent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

However, the last 15 years have seen sustained growth in the production and export of premium white wines, with fresh, unoaked styles and barrel-aged examples becoming a hallmark of numerous appellations throughout Italy. A younger generation of winemakers, often having studied and worked abroad, imported modern techniques and a more international outlook to Italian white wines. Meanwhile, fresh and saline whites were becoming massively in vogue in the restaurants of London, Paris and New York. All these factors encouraged the proliferation of new labels and production increases across the key Italian wine zones. The nation’s white wine pioneers have broadened the depth and breadth of consumer choice tenfold.

Piedmont has been enormously successful in expanding the production and global distribution of its signature white wines styles. This is partly due to the area’s popularity as a tourist destination, as the region’s vineyards are easily accessible from the city of Turin. Most Piedmont wine zones are located to the south-east of the city, in an area of outstanding natural beauty. A frequently employed word to describe the landscape is “undulating”: steep slopes are a ubiquitous part of viticulture in Piedmont. The word Piedmont (Piemonte in Italian) means “at the foot of the mountains”, an appropriate piece of nomenclature as the Alps can be seen from all directions. Serrated blades of rock and ice form an amphitheatre around the vineyards of Piedmont, offering an unforgettable introduction to the region’s wines. The most prestigious Piedmont styles, such as Barolo, are keenly sought after by collectors and sybarites.

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Although the famous reds of Barolo and Barbaresco remain in high demand, wine enthusiasts are also being seduced by the inimitable white wine flavours of Piedmont. Certain growers have been experimenting with international grape varieties like Chardonnay, yet the majority of Piedmont’s white wine appellations prioritise indigenous grapes. Cortese and Arneis, two grape varieties you’ll soon become acquainted with, are seldom found outside of Italy.

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Cortese

Today, the Cortese grape variety is mainly cultivated in the Cortese di Gavi appellation, situated in the province of Alessandria. Gavi was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status in 1998, a recognition of the zone’s high quality output. The vineyards are located approximately 100 kilometres south-east of Turin, in a spectacularly beautiful and mountainous area. It is close to the Ligurian border, where every chef considers seafood and Cortese di Gavi to be the ultimate gastronomic pairing, bar none.

Yet prior to the 1990s, the appellations’ total production was relatively small, with only a handful of noteworthy wines. As exporting aromatic and refreshing white wines became increasingly lucrative, Gavi’s growers decide to up their game. Viticultural techniques and winemaking were refined, with an emphasis on protecting the Cortese grape from oxidation. Meanwhile, the area under vine has also increased dramatically over the past decade. The region’s climate is quintessentially Piedmont; continental with relatively little rainfall, hot summers and cold winters. The terroir is divided between the calcareous soils closer to the mountains and the more northerly expanses of the zone, where the soils contain a higher percentage of iron and clay.

So what does Cortese di Gavi taste like? If the variety is planted on fertile soils and not pruned with due diligence, then Cortese vines will produce large volumes of indifferent wine. However, if yields are kept in-check and the vines planted on superior sites, then you’ll encounter a racy mouthful of citrus, melon, and apricot a very food-friendly wine style. The grape also responds well to the terroirs of Colli Tortonesi and Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, located further north. Some oaked examples have entered the market, although Cortese finds its purest expression when the clean and vibrant fruit is allowed to speak for itself. At its best, there is an underlying minerality and grip to Cortese wines that is irresistible. As Piedmont’s culinary elite always remark, there is no finer variety to serve with seafood pasta.

Arneis

Piedmont’s other principal indigenous white variety, Arneis, has taken slightly longer to gain popularity. It was traditionally blended with the Nebbiolo grape, never allowed the chance to promote its unique charms and flavour profile. This was a missed opportunity for wine lovers. If Arneis is planted on the appropriate terroir (sandy/chalky soils suit it best) and expertly handled in the winery, then an aromatic and structured white wine can be coaxed out of the variety. Interestingly, many growers used to deride Arneis, as the variety is difficult to grow and prone to viticultural disease. Its name is derived from a Piedmontese colloquial term which translates as “little rascal”.

Nevertheless, as enthusiasts are increasingly seeking new flavours and experiences, the global demand for unique wine styles like Arneis has risen. It is cultivated in several appellations across Piedmont, although critics unanimously agree that it reaches an apogee in the vineyards of the Roero DOCG zone. The appellation is situated to the north of the city of Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro river. The terroir is a mix of calcareous and sandy soils, with a significant variance in altitude and aspect across the zone, mirroring other great regions in Piedmont. Growers have traditionally championed north-facing Arneis vineyards, as cooler, north facing slopes can protect vines from harsh afternoon sunshine, a hallmark of Piedmont’s summer season. This allows the grapes to reach full flavour ripeness without sacrificing that all-important acidity.

Roero Bianco and Rossese Bianco

Roero Bianco is the area’s signature white wine style. Under the DOCG rules, it must contain at least 95% Arneis grape. The best examples are deliciously ripe and fragrant, offering aromas of stone fruit, citrus, and pineapple. They work incredibly well with seafood. Indeed, winegrowers in Roero have proven that Arneis can be an interesting alternative to Gavi. Of course, Roero Bianco is a long way from becoming a household name like Marlborough Sauvignon. But Arneis is on an exciting journey towards greater consumer recognition. The delicious Vermentino grape is also cultivated in Roero, known locally as ‘Favorita’. Planted on both the left and right banks of the Tanaro, it produces pungent wines bursting with aromas of citrus, apricot, honeysuckle and melon. Refreshing and moreish to a fault, Favorita was made for summer drinking. The style, particularly when marketed under the more recognised nomenclature of Vermentino, is becoming increasingly popular outside of Italy.

The Rossese Bianco wines made in the Langhe DOC appellation remain local curiosities, but this is slowly changing. The grape is found in the province of Cuneo, grown in the districts of Sinio and Roddino. If handled with care in the vineyard and winery, then Rossese Bianco produces fragrant and medium-bodied wines for early consumption. Fresh and fruit-forward, these floral wines make an ideal aperitif. But it will take some time before Rossese Bianco has widespread recognition outside of northern Italy.

Piedmont sparkling wines

Asti Spumante needs little introduction; Italians have been exporting delicious sparkling wine to global markets for decades. After Prosecco, the most famous of these is based on the Muscat grape, or Moscato in Italian. It has been massively popularised across the US, where it is adored for its soft fruit profile and low alcohol. Naysayers may deride Moscato d’Asti as ‘fizzy pop’, but there is no questioning the style’s popularity or accessible price point. Vineyards surrounding the village of Asti have traditionally produced the best wines, ripening the Moscato grape to a final alcohol of about 5%. The natural sweetness and elegant floral notes can end a rich banquet with a refreshing crescendo. More recently, the authorities introduced a designation called Alta Langa DOC. It was created in 2002 for a growing volume of sparkling wines, fermented dry using the methods perfected in Champagne. The best of these can provide an exciting alternative to the wines of Champagne and Franciacorta.

Alternatives

Of course, enthusiasts may also like to sample Piedmontese interpretations of international grape varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The region is happy to oblige; a growing number of winemakers are crafting delicious imitations of white Burgundy and Sancerre in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. The aforementioned DOC Langhe appellation is a large zone, extending south of the city of Alba on the Tanaro’s right bank. Growers are permitted to cultivate a wide range of varieties, including Chardonnay, Vermentino and Arneis. Meanwhile, the Piedmont DOC covers a vast area across the wider region. It is designed for winemakers who do not wish to exclusively market wines from strictly demarcated zones like Barolo. There are some excellent value wines being made using Cortese, Chardonnay and other grape varieties.

Thankfully, the red monopoly is now old news and Piedmont’s white wine scene has exploded. Moreover, the pricing of Italian white has, for the most part, remained relatively stable and competitive. There can be no better way of gauging a segment’s prospects than from the investment it continues to attract from key stakeholders. Many of Barolo’s leading winemakers, for example, are starting to champion single-vineyard Arneis wines, planting more vines in the appellation. The net upshot for the wine lover is a greater choice of exciting and unique wine styles. To further the argument, we’ve curated a small list of Piedmont’s top labels. It’s a window into the great and the good of Italian white wine.

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