Strolling through the vineyards and past the timeless châteaux of Pauillac, it seems inconceivable that such a tradition-bound region could ever accept change. The 1855 hierarchical classification of Bordeaux’s finest wine estates (including those of Pauillac) has scarcely been altered and is unlikely to welcome new additions in the 21st century. Its grandiose châteaux continue to produce structured, refined and age-worthy red wines.

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Regional history and change

The three most iconic names of Pauillac—Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild—are keenly sought-after by collectors and oenophiles. This has been the case for centuries.

Dig a little deeper into this historic region, however, and there’s ample evidence that Pauillac’s stakeholders are both pragmatic and highly adaptable. For one thing, Bordeaux’s attitude to welcoming visitors has changed dramatically over the past 15 years. Historically, Pauillac’s châteaux were largely closed to outsiders. Each vintage was—and still is—sold to negociants (merchants), via courtiers (brokers) who act as middlemen. These merchants then distribute the wines to customers across the world, in a commercial system known as the Place de Bordeaux. There was little incentive to welcome wine lovers, as the merchants (rather than the properties themselves) acted as the region’s marketeers.

Yet in an age of social media and rising curiosity, owners have re-evaluated this approach. Famous estates such as Pichon Longueville now happily welcome wine tourists, while Château Lynch Bages runs a lovely hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant in the zone. Moreover, a growing number of châteaux are experimenting with organic and biodynamic viticulture, in addition to piloting numerous sustainability initiatives designed to reduce the environmental impact of winegrowing.

Pauillac is home to 18 classified châteaux that were subject to a hierarchical ranking, from First to Fifth Growth, in the 19th century. Three of Bordeaux’s five First Growths are located in Pauillac, with prices to match. However, the importance of the official classification has arguably faded over the past 20 years and is no longer an infallible guide to quality. Some of the most popular châteaux (Lynch-Bages and Pontet-Canet, for example) were ‘only’ classified as Fifth Growths in the 1855 ranking. However, the market has rewarded their consistently high quality with prices in excess of some Second Growth properties in neighbouring zones. In Pauillac, modern preferences are more important than historical classification.

Climate and geography

The vineyards of Pauillac are situated north of Bordeaux city, in a strip of land wedged between the Atlantic coastline and the Gironde estuary. Known as the Medoc peninsula, it is home to several renowned and celebrated wine appellations, including Pauillac. Its neighbours are Saint-Julien to the south and Saint-Estephe to the north. Today there are approximately 1200 hectares of vineyards in the Pauillac appellation; the majority are dedicated to red wine production, though a tiny volume of white is also made.

It could be said that Pauillac’s soils are unchanging. The appellation’s terroir is truly outstanding: a deep gravel plateau that blends quartz pebbles, flint and clay in varying proportions. The subsoil is often composed of iron-rich sandstone, while the best sites offer exceptional drainage. It is widely agreed that vineyards planted close to the Gironde enjoy the most privileged position, as the milder temperatures protect vines from the threat of spring frosts. These warm soils, combined with a maritime climate, are ideally suited to the task of ripening red grape varieties to balanced levels of alcohol. A great Pauillac wine is never coarse, alcoholic, or ‘top heavy’.

The sea of vines that carpet the appellation produces some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in the world, a harmonious marriage of power, elegance and generosity of flavour. Pauillac’s wine community places Cabernet Sauvignon at the heart of their red wines, joined by smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and occasionally Petit Verdot. The appellation rules also permit growers to include some Carmenere and Malbec in the blends, yet this seldom occurs.

Grapes

What is the reason for producing blended styles, rather than single-varietal wines in Pauillac? Every winemaker will tell you that a great red wine should be far greater than the sum of its parts. The late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon brings power and structure, while Merlot offers suppleness and texture. Cabernet Franc is used to add freshness and perfume; Petit Verdot, if used at all, completes the picture with its spicy aromatics and good acidity. Of course, every estate has its own priorities and particular recipe to follow, though the proportions of certain grape varieties used will depend on the vintage in question. Nevertheless, it is comparatively rare for a Pauillac wine not to contain at least 70% Cabernet Sauvignon.

These distinct red grape varieties have been blended in this manner since the mid-19th century when Cabernet Sauvignon became the most important variety in the Medoc. When they are combined with deft skill in the winery, this trio (sometimes quartet) produce red wines of incomparable charm and finesse. Due to individual approaches in the vineyard and winery, there are discernible stylistic variations between, say, Château Lafite and Mouton Rothschild, the latter renowned for its opulence and exotic fruit profile.

Textbook Pauillac should offer a telltale nose of cassis, blueberries and cedarwood in its youth. The fruit will be cosseted in a significant amount of firm tannin, supported by a fine acid line and impeccable freshness. The full-bodied palate will develop in complexity over time; mature vintages can yield a beguiling range of flavours, including undergrowth, truffles, coffee and cigar box. Collectors with abundant resources can speak to the merits of vintages from the 19th century. A bottle of 1899 Lafite-Rothschild was very much alive and exquisitely complex when tasted in 2012.

Wine styles and flavours

Pauillac has long staked its reputation on the longevity of its best wines. Critics cannot resist comparing notes on ancient vintages and there is a widespread consensus that Pauillac benefits from at least five years bottle age after the harvest. This is due to a (generally) formidable structure that is a concomitant part of Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. It is the grape’s naturally high levels of tannin that enables Pauillac to age so gracefully over the decades. It is very rare, for example, to drink wines from the celebrated 1982 vintage that have faded or lost their fruit. The downside of such an inherently powerful structure is a tendency towards austerity, particularly in the awkward stages of youth. A very young Pauillac wine once needed a robust culinary pairing to offset the ‘hit’ of such firm tannins. Roast lamb remains the ideal choice.

Yet this historic paradigm is also changing to meet the demands of modern consumers. Winemakers are increasingly softening the impact of Cabernet Sauvignon’s imposing structure via several inventive means. One technique is to add more Merlot (the grape has less tannin) to the blend. Another involves a sophisticated piece of winemaking technology to subject the must (unfermented grape juice) to micro-oxygenation. Tiny bubbles of oxygen are pumped into the wine, which has the effect of softening any tannic hard edges.

Picking later in the season is a more straightforward technique, as this ensures that Cabernet Sauvignon’s tannins are as ripe as possible, without sacrificing acidity. Of course, Pauillac’s top wines are still slow to mature and can age for many decades. But they now cater to impatient oenophiles and are approachable on release.

Pauillac’s willingness to evolve has kept the region’s châteaux relevant in a fiercely competitive world. Yet, the eternal appeal of the appellation’s red wines does invite scrutiny. The varietal flavours of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon—and, indeed, Merlot—can be replicated in regions as diverse as Napa Valley and Australia’s Coonawarra zone. Pauillac does not have a monopoly on superlative red wines that trade heavily on the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.

Perhaps the answer lies in the ability of Pauillac’s terroir to make wines that are simultaneously powerful and unbelievably fine. The Bordeaux establishment, like all winemakers, overuses the word ‘balance’ to the point of tedium. But the word does perfectly describe why a great Pauillac wine is such a refreshing and appetising drink. The alcohol is rarely overbearing, but the force of personality is persuasive. It pulls off the enviable trick of offering maximum pleasure without threatening your sobriety. You can make world-class Cabernet Sauvignon all over the world, but Pauillac has to come from Bordeaux.

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