2023 Chardonnay, Moss Wood

Western Australia

Producing just 2% of the national total, Western Australia is home to some of the most iconic wineries and in Margaret River, a world class producing area. The state is vast (a quarter the size of Europe) but sparsely populated (more people live in Rome) and the wine industry is concentrated in the south-western corner. Until the 1970s, the industry here was all concentrated in the baking hot Swan Valley to the north of Perth, where the country’s best-selling white wine, Houghton’s White Burgundy, was made. Margaret River, around three hours south of Perth and cooled by Ocean winds, was first planted in 1967 at Vasse Felix, swiftly followed by Moss Wood and Cullens. Others, most notably Leeuwin, swiftly followed and after the expansion of the 1990s, there are now nearly 200 wineries here. The region’s fame is built on Cabernet Sauvignon, of which it makes most of the country’s finest examples, along with world class Chardonnay, although it also produces fine shiraz and Semillon Sauvignon blends. Gerographe, to the north of Margaret River is warmer and makes wines of some power, especially from vineyards further inland. To the far south is Great Southern, encompassing sub-regions Frankland River, Mount Barker, Denmark, Albany and Porongarup. This is a diverse region, but these are some of Australia’s coolest vineyards and wines from here have a fragrance and freshness that is unusual for the country. Fine elegant Cabernet racy Chardonnay and peppery Shiraz can be found here. Pemberton and Manjimup lie between Margaret River and Great Southern and are relatively cool and damp. Neither is especially significant in volume terms, but some decent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and very good shiraz is made here, in a cooler climate style.