The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru has a thrilling bouquet with real intensity and purity: citrus peel, crushed limestone and sea cave. The palate is exquisite in terms of balance, perfectly judged acidity, saline and fresh with seamlessly integrated oak (50% barrel aged for the first 12 months). This fans out exquisitely on the finish. Oh yes. Oh YES!

The 2022 Bourgogne d'Or, a blend between Mâcon Nord and Auxerrois, has a fragrant nose with hints of melted butter and yellow flowers and a touch of vanilla pod in the background. The palate is well-balanced with a pleasant "bite" on the entry, fresh and tangy, with a hint of marmalade on the finish.

The 2022 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from north/northwest-facing vines. This complex and detailed bouquet of yellow fruit, lemon verbena and lemon thyme is quite minerally and focused. The well-balanced palate has a fine acidic spine, more sapidity than the Vaillons and a persistent and detailed finish as it fans out. Superb.

The 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a slightly musky, light apple blossom bouquet cohering nicely in the glass. The palate is quite effervescent with a bit of gas and good acidity but rather one-dimensional on the tropical-tinged finish. This feels as if the warm summer got to it.