Western Australia has a remarkable success story. The state has long staked its reputation on quality, producing elegant Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet, this is the tip of the iceberg; winegrowers have an insatiable desire to widen the palate of varieties, partly due to mere curiosity and partly necessitated by the demands of an increasingly sophisticated global audience. Although these vineyards account for just 3% of Australia’s total wine output, Western Australia remains a key exporter and flag-bearer for premiumisation and grape diversity.

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The Western Australia wine region

Western Australian landmass exceeds the geographical area of Texas and Alaska combined; Western Australia is the largest of the nation’s eight states. As you expect from such an expansive region, soil types can vary dramatically; you’ll find that diversity is Western Australia’s trump card. The wine region is isolated and remote but nonetheless a magnet for oenophiles.

Part of the attraction is the benign climate of the wine country. The state’s vineyards are concentrated in the southwest corner of Western Australia, with the vast majority located south of Perth. Regions like Margaret River enjoy a moderate climate and the benefits of proximity to the Indian Ocean. Antarctic breezes make all the difference at harvest time in the summer, cooling the vine canopy. Winegrowers in the region are adept at crafting wines with balanced alcohol and wonderful freshness; ripeness and acidity have become the hallmark of Western Australian wine. Today, no self-respecting wine list can omit Margaret River Chardonnay or Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc. Even in Western Australia’s emerging regions, you’ll find a wealth of fine wine, including Viognier blends and velvety Tempranillo.

Key grape varieties

  • Sauvignon Blanc– the flagship grape of nearby New Zealand. However, the Western Australian tradition, similarly to Bordeaux, is to harness the variety’s aromatic qualities and blend them with Sémillon, creating a full-bodied and textured style. The top cuvées showcase notes of tropical fruit.
  • • Shiraz– Western Australia’s cool climate yields Shiraz that resembles the best of Northern Rhône. Expect flavours of white pepper, tapenade and blackberry.
  • • Chardonnay– in Western Australia, Chardonnay is among the finest in the world. Margaret River leads the pack, producing fruity wines that rival premium wine from Burgundy in structure and finesse.
  • • Pinot Noir – Burgundy’s signature red grape thrives in the oceanic climate of Western Australia, particularly in the Albany, Margaret River and Denmark regions. The best labels offer both silkiness and boldness.
  • • Riesling– the ultimate thirst quencher; Riesling produces wines with moderate alcohol and racy acidity. Like Germany and Alsace, the Western Australia wine region appears to suit the grape, yielding aromatic white wine with minerality and pungent flavours of citrus fruit.
  • • Cabernet Sauvignon – Western Australia prides itself on the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon. It is strongly reminiscent of a good Pauillac, with firm tannins, good acidity and aromas of cassis in very cool vintages.
  • • Semillon– Winegrowers in Bordeaux and Western Australia share a passion for the Semillon grape, used for oaked dry white wine production. Typically blended with Sauvignon Blanc, the resulting wine (Semillion-Sauvignon Blanc) is rich and complex, with intense aromas notes of citrus, lanolin, and grapefruit.
  • • Merlot – Cabernet Sauvignon’s traditional blending partner yields medium-bodied and supple red wine in Western Australia, with layers of red berry, fruit and cinnamon on the palate. It reaches a pinnacle in Margaret River.

Key sub-regions

Western Australiastarted its viticultural journey in the 19th century. In 1834, growers in Swan Valley, located upstream from Perth, harvested their first vintage. Winemaker Jack Mann decided to steer development in this hot climate. He created what became known as Houghton’s White Burgundy: a Chenin Blanc-dominant blend.

In the 1960s, winemakers were encouraged by Californian experts to invest away from Swan Valley into the cooler parts of the state. These sub-regions, listed below, are the driving force behind Western Australia’s wine industry.

Margaret River

Margaret Riverset the benchmark for other regions to follow. Initially developed by pioneers Vasse Felix and Moss Wood in the early 1970s, the sub-region now boasts around 160 producers. In Western Australia’s south-western tip, Margaret River offers various soil types, ranging from ironstone gravel to clay-limestone and loam. Indeed, the growing conditions are very favourable; many white and red grapes thrive in the region’s warm climate, tempered by ocean breezes.

Chardonnay, Shiraz, and Cabernet Sauvignon reach the summit of perfection here. You may have heard that Chardonnay made in Western Australia offers a stunning imitation of Grand Cru white Burgundy. The most heavily planted zone is Wilyabrup, famous for its blackcurrant-scented Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition, Margaret River Cabernet is often blended with Merlot – a Bordeaux trademark. The quality of local Malbec, Shiraz, Tempranillo, and Petit Verdot have also been soaring in recent times. A visit to the iconic Leeuwin Estate or Cape Mentelle’s vineyards and winery wouldn’t be worth missing.

Sustainable and organic viticulture is also widely practised in the region. Cullen wines is just one of many producers fiercely devoted to protecting the glorious biodiversity of Margaret River.

Blackwood Valley

This is one of Western Australia’s most promising sub-regions. Situated to the east of Margaret River, Blackwood Valley continues to attract ambitious young winemakers keen to make an impression. The Mediterranean climate and alluvial soils yield ripe and silky wines balanced by good acidity. Shiraz has shown real promise here.

Great Southern

Great Southern is an established viticultural area that deserves more international recognition. Vines were first planted in the late 1960s, flanking the town of Mount Barker, south-east of Perth. The acreage has grown exponentially, luring growers with its varied soils and cool-climate growing conditions. As a result, Great Southern has been further divided into five key zones: Mount Barker, Frankland River, Denmark, Albany and Porongurup. Albany and Denmark benefit enormously from the cooling sea breezes and a slower rate of ripening. Fresh, aromatic and complex, Denmark’s top Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs rival Australia’s best.

Meanwhile, the granite terroir of Porongurup has developed a natural affinity with the Riesling grape. The same could be said of the drier Frankland River zone, which also stakes its reputation on fine Bordeaux blends.

Manjimup

Western Australia’s truffle capital is brimming with new talent and innovation, drawn to the outstanding potential of the warm climate and gravelly loam soils. Recent vintages have produced excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Geographe

Travel south from Perth toward Margaret River, and you’ll encounter the Geographe wine region. Less established than its more famous neighbour, Geographe has staked its reputation on experimentation and innovation. An expansive palate of varieties are grown in the alluvial and sandy terroirs of Geographe, including Tempranillo, Tinta Cao, Vermentino, and Barbera. The nearby winery, Capel Vale, will be worth a visit.

Pemberton

Investors have flocked to Pemberton, attracted by the cool, wet maritime climate and the gravel/loam terroir. Pinot Noir is the area’s flagship success, albeit the Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc wines are also outstanding. They offer a perfect balance between ripeness and freshness, exemplifying Pemberton’s wine ‘footprint’.

Enjoying Western Australia wine

Let’s collectively banish some Western Australian wine clichés of meaty Shiraz and buttery Chardonnay. There is, in fact an elegance underpinning Western Australian wine that makes it particularly food friendly. The alcohol is rarely excessive, and the acidity is always apparent. Western Australia’s distinctive regions have much to deliver; from cool-climate Pinot Noir to aromatic Riesling, there is a style to suit every mood and occasion. Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc is delightful with seafood, while local interpretations of Burgundy’s star grapes deserve Michelin treatment. A top choice would be veal sweetbreads and Moss Wood Chardonnay. Finally, any choice from the Sandalford winery has the potential to impress.

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