Trentino is a hotbed of multiculturalism. Sandwiched between Lombardy to the west, Austria to the north and the Veneto region to the southeast, Trentino does not lay claim to a homogenous cultural identity. In regional capital Trento, bierhalles (beer halls) serving Wiener Schnitzel are found opposite Italian piazzas and gelaterias. You’ll hear German in Trentino as frequently as Italian.

Yet some of Trentino’s most celebrated wine styles owe their fame to Gallic viticultural traditions. French grapes have responded exceptionally well to Trentino’s high altitude sites, mountain breezes and mineral-rich soils. Elsewhere, indigenous varieties and time-honoured traditions have prevailed. There is a surfeit of exciting ‘imitation’ and original red, white and sparkling wines styles waiting to be discovered in this Alpine dream.

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Climate and geography

Home to the spectacular Dolomite mountains, Trentino sits in a valley that forms a corridor into the Austrian Alps. It is part of a semi-autonomous province called Trentino-Alto Adige. The geographical boundaries of Trentino’s key appellation, Trentino DOC, run from the Avio village in the south to Mezzocorona city which straddles Trentino and Alto-Adige. Vineyards carpet the slopes on both sides of the Adige Valley, some planted at altitudes as high as 900m above sea level. Over 65% of plantable land rises to above 1000m, so there is no shortage of cool-climate terroir in this part of Italy.

However, the highest slopes are often too cool to ripen red grapes to satisfactory levels. Many growers prefer the warmer lower slopes, particularly if the vines have a south-facing aspect. Although the wider Trentino zone enjoys a temperate climate, the Dolomites radically alters the amount of rainfall during the growing season. The elevated topography protects the valley floor from rainfall, due to a metrological effect known as ‘rain shadow’. Essentially, the peaks and ridges block the passage of rainclouds, causing the precipitation to fall at the higher levels. This is of great benefit to growers in Trentino, as excessive rainfall causes all manner of headaches in the vineyard, including rot.

Soil in the region also varies dramatically, with everything from limestone-rich earth to gravel beds and mineral-rich alluvium. Indeed, every distinctive vineyard site has a unique set of characteristics pertaining to the elevation, aspect and soil type. Certain growers favour the cooler micro-climates inherent to the terroir of the eastern shores of Lake Garda. West of the main valley are three small lakes famous for their cooling afternoon breezes and dessert wine styles, known as Vin Santo. In such diverse terroir, it is hardly surprising that growers can fashion a rich mosaic of wine styles.

Grapes

The catch-all Trentino DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is one of Italy’s most expansive appellation frameworks. Created in 1971, it encompasses a range of red and white wine styles, either based on international or indigenous grape varieties. Every part of the valley, it seems, has its own specialism, unique terroir and favoured grape. The diversity of flavours in this part of northern Italy is astounding.

Witness the striking perfume of the little-known Marzemino red grape variety, found in several sub-zones across the region including Trentino Isera and Trentino Ziresi. The former covers land in the municipalities of Isera and Villa Lagarina, southwest of Trento. The latter zone encompasses vineyards situated south of Trento, between the towns of Brennero and Volano. Planted at higher altitudes on the Vallagarina gorge, Marzemino produces racy, light-bodied and fragrant wine that is relatively low in alcohol. Its aromas of red cherry, pinewood and almonds can be seductive, especially when sipped, preferably chilled, on a summer’s evening.

In contrast, the San Leonardo estate stakes its reputation on sumptuous and elegant Bordeaux blends. The property was founded as a monastery in 900 AD in the southern reaches of the zone close to Avio. Owned by the Guerrieri Gonzaga family for the past three centuries, today San Leonardo is considered equal to Tuscany’s Ornellaia and Sassicaia. Their signature red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere, is aged in French oak for 24 months, imbuing the wine with a Medoc-like structure and finesse. The grapes are planted on a patchwork of terroirs which include calcareous soils, gravel and clay. In addition, the estate makes a small volume of excellent sparkling wine and a Sauvignon Blanc called ‘Vette’. San Leonardo’s emphasis on preserving biodiversity and sustainability has also been widely lauded. Energy is harnessed from solar panels and the estate is a showground of diverse flora and fauna, including several beehives.

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At the opposite end of Trentino is perhaps Italy’s most obscure red grape. Teroldego is a speciality of the Campo Rotaliano zone, nestled between the towns of Mezzocorona and Mezzolombardo. A late-ripening variety, Teroldego has its own specific appellation: Teroldego Rotaliano DOC. The area’s sandy and gravelly soils are ideal for ripening Teroldego in cooler vintages, producing deeply coloured wines that are fragrant and softly structured. Indeed, the variety’s tannins are seldom astringent or powerful, ensuring that even very young vintages are always a pleasure to drink. Its signature party trick of red berry aromas and fresh acidity are highly seductive on a warm evening.

Far more widely planted are the Schiava and Lagrein red grape varieties. They are found in both the southern and northerly expanses of Trentino and rarely further afield. Schiava tends to produce light, fresh wines of moderate alcohol ideal for summer drinking. Some of the best examples are sourced from old vines, trained on pergolas on the higher slopes of the Valle di Cei. Lagrein is another local curiosity. Darker than Schiava, it showcases a more tannic profile, with flavours of black cherry and plum. It thrives in the Trentino Sorni sub-zone, which covers the municipalities of Lavis, Giovo and San Michele all’Adige. The most privileged vineyards, planted on alluival soils, enjoy a south-facing aspect benefitting from the cooler morning sun.

Appellation

Today there are just over 400 hectares under vine in the DOC appellation. The most prized vineyards are planted on dramatic hillside sites, flanked by ancient geological formations. According to the appellation rules, both red and rosé wines can be produced only from the Teroldego varietal. They must reach a minimum alcohol level of 11%, or 12% for the superiore version. There is also a Riserva category, aged for a minimum of two years before release. Top examples from the appellation are sometimes aged in French barrique, which adds more structure and potency. Yet un-oaked, young vintages are often the most satisfying to drink. Locals tend to snap up the majority of production, as Teroldego remains a very niche category in the zone.

Under the specific rules of the Trentino Sorni designation, blends and single-varietal wines are permitted. A Trentino Sorni Bianco may contain a certain percentage of Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, Nosiola, Pinots Bianco and Grigio, and/or Sylvaner Verde. Red styles may incorporate a portion of Lagrein, Schiava and/or Teroldego—or all three!

However, there are other options open to local winegrowers. The eastern Adige slopes around the town of San Michele boast a diverse terroir that can accommodate a range of white and red grapes, both international and imported. If a grower wishes to work outside of the DOC framework, then the Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation is also available. Introduced in 1997, it covers a range of blended and single-varietal wine styles. The permitted grapes include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio.

Some exceptional Pinot Noir is also being made under the IGT rules, in addition to ‘new wave’ Teroldego. Elisabetta Foradori is an enthusiastic supporter of the flexibility inherent to the IGT framework. Her exquisite Teroldego wines, aged in clay amphoras, are not permitted under the DOC rules. But there is an easy solution: she markets them under the Vigneti delle Dolomiti nomenclature. They sell out quickly upon release.

Unifying such an eclectic mix of wine styles and grape varieties under one banner is undeniably a difficult task. Yet, there is a homogeneity that runs through Trentino. Despite the broad range of flavours and styles on offer, the region’s wines are generally fresh, relatively low in alcohol and approachable from a young age. They are also extremely reliable; there is a noticeable paucity of poorly made and lacklustre wines. Whether you’re imbibing top-quality sparkling, barrel-aged Toreldego or a Bordeaux blend from San Leonardo, you can be assured of supreme quality.

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