A guide to Puglia wine

Critics are unanimous: almost all European wine regions are ascending through rising investment, emerging talent and relentless innovation. Formerly derided winemaking zones like France’s Languedoc and Spain’s La Mancha are now making structured, refined and elegant wines.

Puglia’s recent history exemplifies this broader cultural shift. Located in the heel of the Italian boot in the far southeast of the country, the region was associated with massive volumes and lacklustre quality throughout the 20th century. The hot Mediterranean climate easily ripened large quantities of grapes, used for bulk wine, distillation and table grapes.

As elsewhere, the demand for grape concentrate and sweetened blending material ensures that the market for high-volume viticulture will never die out. But the modern range of superlative Puglian wines now available would have been unthinkable at the turn at the millennium.

Climate and geography

The Salento peninsula has been at the forefront of Puglia’s revolution. Once derided for exporting gallons of harsh plonk, today’s winegrowers are chasing lower yields and superior quality. The zone occupies the southern half of the Puglia region, basking in one of driest and hottest climates in Western Europe. There is almost no rainfall during the summer and drought is becoming a pressing concern. Indeed, achieving full ripeness in Salento is almost too easy. In particularly torrid vintages, winemakers can struggle with alcohol levels in excess of 16% ABV, leading to an undesirable, unbalanced and overbearing wine.

Salento’s growers have a few tricks up their sleeve, but, unfortunately, altitude is not one of them. The area’s vineyards cover a flat peninsula with no great variations in elevation and micro-climate, yet the proximity to the Adriatic and Ionian Seas provides much-needed cooling breezes. The best sites are situated in western Salento, close to the coast on iron-rich clay soils which don’t reflect heat and help to slow the rate of ripening.

Appellations

Robust red varieties are more suited to the hot, arid landscape of southern Puglia. Primitivo and Negroamaro are two indigenous grapes that are at home in the wider region. The wines produced from these grapes are marketed under a broad range of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) appellations and IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipicas) designations.

There are now six IGTs and over 30 DOCs in Puglia. Many growers in Salento prefer the freedom inherent to the IGT frameworks, which balance quality control and yield restrictions with flexibility in both the vineyard and the winery. Although indigenous varieties are cherished locally, other international grapes like Merlot are permitted under the IGT regulations.

One of the most popular designations is IGT Salento. You’ll often see it on labels advertising the Primitivo grape, arguably Puglia’s most successful and recognised export. It is believed that Primitivo is a mutation of one of the indigenous varieties native to Croatia, introduced to southern Italy in the 18th century. The name means ‘early one’ in Italian, a reference to the grape’s tendency to ripen relatively early in the growing season. Some growers call Primitivo ‘Mirr Test’ (hard wine), a reference to its stubborn tendency to crop at high yields. But if the grape is subjected to a rigorous pruning regime and cultivated on poor soils, then Primitivo will play ball.

Located northwest of the city of Foggia, San Severo lends its name to Puglia’s first DOC appellation, established in 1968. Under the DOC rules, exceptional red and rosé wines are being made with a voluptuous mouthfeel and opulent concentration. They are either based on single-varietal interpretations of the Sangiovese or Montepulciano grapes, or a blend of the two. The baking hot summers ripen the grapes to relatively high alcohol levels, although the omnipresent sea breezes keep things in moderation.

Grapes

Today, several appellations and sub-zones are producing world-class Primitivo wines. At its best, Primitivo is a magnificent red grape variety. When planted on superior terroir and treated with due care in the winery, it provides endless pleasure. Premium examples showcase a voluptuous texture, silky tannins and aromas of red berries, damson jam and strawberry.

Young Primitivo vintages offer a lesson in unadulterated hedonism. Who could resist the velvety tannins, full-bodied palate and aromas of blackberries, fig and strawberry intermixing with notes of pepper and spice? With age, tertiary aromas of forest floor, wild game and cigar box will emerge. The top wines are always sourced from low-yielding bush vines, often aged in American oak. If used judiciously, oak-ageing flatters Primitivo, adding an extra layer of structure and complexity.

Negroamaro is another unsung hero, an esoteric variety lacking global recognition. It has historically been used to add fire and spice to regional blends, celebrated for its savoury bouquet and aromas of cloves, red berries and cinnamon. Negroamaro vines are robust and capable of surviving for prolonged periods without moisture, an obvious advantage in Puglia’s arid climate. The top wines are racy and perfumed, boasting firm but accessible tannins, a medium-bodied palate and good concentration. While it continues to be blended (typically with Primitivo and Malvasia Nera), single-varietal wines are becoming more common. Negroamaro also shines at the dinner table, offering a versatile accompaniment to red meat, pasta dishes and local cheeses.

Negroamaro is now associated with over 10 different appellations in Puglia. The best wines tend to be found in the Salice Salentino and Nardo DOCs. The former was founded in 1979, situated 12 miles northwest of Lecce city in an entirely landlocked sub-zone. Growers increasingly covet vineyards flanking the town of Salice, spreading to the north and west. The calcareous soils and cooling breezes from the Gulf of Taranto combine to form a very advantageous terroir. Cropped at lower yields, Negroamaro produces delicious and impeccably balanced wine in the Salentino DOC, offering an attractive package of racy acidity, soft tannins and piercing red fruit. Moreover, it is a style almost never encountered outside of Puglia.

Wine styles and tastes

Can whites grapes thrive in Puglia’s hot climate? Yes, if the right grape variety is matched to a specific site, ideally along the cooler coastal zones. IGT Chardonnay del Salento is one of Puglia’s most successful white exports, a hybrid of Burgundian finesse and Puglian exuberance and concentration. Pinot Blanc and Fiano have responded well to Salento’s clay-limestone soils and cooler micro-climate. San Severo also produces a decent quantity of high-quality white wines, typically based on the Trebbiano and Bombino Bianco grapes.

Yet Verdeca is Puglia’s only indigenous white grape. Sparsely planted, it is mainly found in the Taranto and Bari provinces of central Puglia. If the variety is cropped at low yields, then a light-bodied, aromatic wine style will emerge. Its singular perfume of mint, thyme and citrus, combined with good acidity, ensures that Verdeca is the mainstay of pre-dinner drinks. It is not usually subject to oak ageing, as winemakers prefer to let the fruit speak for itself.

There are some red wine curiosities to be discovered in central Puglia. Seldom seen outside of the region, Nero di Troia thrives in the Castel del Monte DOC appellation, located west of Bari. A naturally low-yielding variety, Nero di Troia responds well to the zone’s hot climate and clay soils. Critics typically speak of full-bodied wines, with high alcohol, good acidity and ample concentration. Black cherry, plum and raspberry are commonly encountered flavours. As a result, there is never any rush to drink good Nero di Troia—top vintages can age for a decade and more.

Yet, its generous tannins are always approachable from a young age. In recognition of the consistent quality of wines being produced from the grape, a new appellation was created in 2011: Castel del Monte Nera di Troia Riserva DOCG. According to the regulations, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia wines must contain at least 90% of the signature grape. Before commercial release, Riserva wines must be aged for at least 24 months, 12 of those in oak. While the volumes exported pale in comparison to Primitivo wines, sommeliers and oenophiles are raving about Nero di Troia’s ability to match with a range of dishes. Roasted Salsiccia alla salentina (sausage made out of sheep and pig’s meat) served with rosemary potatoes and a glass of Nero di Troia completes any celebration on a delectable note.

Historically, the wine trade never got excited about Puglia’s viticulture. Yet it now represents everything that is wonderful about Italian wine: tradition and modernity walking hand-in-hand, with enough esoteric and international wine styles to satisfy every palate.