An insider’s guide to Veneto rosé wine
It’s no secret that rosé has become exceedingly fashionable in recent years. Some critics attribute its meteoric success to the celebrity factor; Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have been prominent marketers of the category, while George Clooney is currently negotiating the purchase of Château Canadel in Provence. Others argue that rosé’s transformation from poolside tipple to year-round indulgence is the reason for an explosion in demand. Yet the catalyst for the style’s ascendancy is almost certainly very prosaic: the quality of wines being produced has soared in recent times. One northern Italian region deserves particular attention.
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The Veneto rosé wine revolution
The Veneto region of northeast Italy is one of many European winegrowing regions that has dramatically upped its rosé game. On the eastern shores of Lake Garda, growers in the Bardolino appellation are making lighter and fresher rosé wines, thanks to modern vinification techniques and new approaches in the vineyard. Winemakers in other sub-zones across the Veneto region have also been experimenting with fermentation and maturation in French oak, lending their wines additional structure and texture. Meanwhile, the fledging Prosécco DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) Rosé appellation is struggling to meet global demand. Launched in May 2020, ‘pink’ Prosécco has become the definitive summer aperitif in the UK.
For over a century, Bardolino’s wine culture has been focused on producing delectable red wines, with rosé being something of an ancillary hobby. The local name for pink wine from the zone is ‘Chiaretto’, first made in 1896. The appellation’s terroir is highly conducive to quality winemaking. Warm summertime temperatures and gusts of cool air transported from the neighbouring Alps help to ripen grapes without sacrificing freshness and crisp acidity; both are essential ingredients in the production of high-quality rosé wine.
Key grape varieties
- Corvina – native to Veneto, Italy, this variety is known for its characteristic sour cherry flavour, as well as its subtle tannins and colour. This makes it ideally suited to fresh, natural wine production. Corvina ripens very late which can be an issue for growers.
- Raboso – there are two closely-related Northern Italian red grape varieties, Raboso Piave and Raboso Veronese. Both grapes are deeply coloured, comparable to Cabernet Sauvignon. The name ‘Raboso’ is thought reference to the aggressive tannins and high acidity of wines produced from these varieties.
- Rondinella – typically blended, this variety is rarely grown outside of Veneto and contributes prolific and reliable grape yields, in part, due to its resistance to rot. This variety can add herbal notes and is ideal for blending.
- Molinara – this light-bodied variety is used primarily to add acidity when blending wine. Since it is susceptible to oxidation, winemakers need a more modern approach to rosé production containing Molinara.
Veneto rosé production
The winemaking process has changed significantly over the past eight years. Historically, Bardolino’s rosé output was essentially a ‘by-product’ of red wine production. The area’s three indigenous red grapes – Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella – were harvested and then typically broken (but not crushed) prior to being added to the fermentation vessel. The unfermented grape juice released from the grapes, called must, would be allowed to macerate for 2-3 days. Maceration is the process whereby colour and flavour are extracted from the grape skins; a short period of maceration results in a lightly-coloured red wine, hence rosé’s hallmark delicate body and salmon pink colour. After this brief maceration, the juice would be drawn off (via static draining) and then fermented in the same way as a white wine. It is known as the saignée or salasso method in Italian.
What emerged was something of a hybrid, borrowing part of its winemaking technique from red wine production, part from white. Unfortunately, the pre-fermentation maceration method would often produce rosés with signs of oxidation and over-extraction, robbing the wine of freshness and delicacy.
However, in 2014, instead of fashioning by-products, growers started selecting early-ripening red grapes specifically for the production of fragrant rosé. Crushed grapes and juice were fermented together for a very short period, before the juice was run off, clarified and bottled. Brighter aromas, softer textures and higher acidity were achieved by cold fermentation in stainless steel. Of course, certain producers decided to make their pink wines in the historic way, but the modernisers now outnumber the traditionalists. Bardolino has become a hotbed of delicious rosé wines, made in a very ‘Provençal’ style – light and dry with high minerality and notes of citrus and red fruit.
Growers across the region are increasingly delineating specific plots of vineyards, often planted at higher altitudes, exclusively for the production of rosé wines. Occasionally, winemakers will forgo crushing or even breaking the grapes, instead pressing whole bunches to release very clean juice that is quickly fermented at low temperatures. It creates a very pale-coloured and powerfully scented rosé wine, often called ‘vin gris’ in France.
Key rosé wine appellations
Like red and white wines, premium rosés are fashioned from the best grapes. Fortunately, the Veneto region has a wealth of varieties ideal for the production of rosé. Outside of Bardolino, many of the best wines are made under the Trevenezie IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation. Created in 1995, it was known as delle Venezie until 2017. The designation covers a wide geographical production area, including all of the Veneto region and the neighbouring province of Friuli-Venezia Guilia. Under the IGT rules, a wide range of grape varieties may be used to produce rosato wines. The IGT regulations allow labels to reference two grape varieties, if the second variety constitutes at least 15% of the blend. Single varietal-labelled wines must contain at least 85 per cent of the stated grape variety.
Burgundy’s signature red grape is the secret behind the consistent quality of rosé sparkling wine. In 2020, over 16 million bottles of pink Prosécco were made across the DOC appellation, produced from a blend of the traditional Glera grape and Pinot Noir. Mirroring the art of rosé craftsmanship in Champagne, still red wines are added to the sparkling blends, imbuing the final product with a salmon pink colour and aromas of red fruit. Under the DOC rules, Pinot Noir can constitute a maximum of 15% of the final blend.
Enjoying Veneto rosé wine
Indeed, good Veneto rosé has it all: creaminess, lightness with depth, unbeatable value and the endless ability to refresh. Provence’s monopoly on producing exceptional rosé wines has been broken. 15 years ago, there was no contest, but today there is no excuse for not giving French rosé a night off. In Veneto, there is a world of quality to explore.
The best examples from the Veneto region are now among the finest rosés in the world. Their trademark is a bright-pink colour, married to a fresh and fruity bouquet. The refreshing cut of citrus acidity and negligible tannin makes such wines an absolute delight to drink. In recent times, growers have achieved success with the Pinot Noir grape. The top rosés produced from Pinot Noir are utterly seductive and very moreish.
Another Veneto superstar is Pasqua’s rosé. It isn’t cheap but the wine is undoubtedly one of the finest in its class. A singular blend of Corvina, Trebbiano, Syrah and Carmenere, the wine benefits from the complexity inherent to blending such distinct grape varieties. Expect tasting notes of wild strawberry, red fruit, almonds, vanilla and creaminess in abundance. Pair with light dishes as this bottle will dominate the stage.
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