Rhône Valley wine sub-regions: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The wines of the Rhône Valley cannot be pigeonholed. Every appellation, from Hermitage to Saint Joseph, has a considerable diversity of styles, ranging from medium-bodied silky reds to powerfully structured and concentrated wines. This is partly due to the varied terroir (growing conditions) that has come to typify the vineyard sites in France’s most spectacular landscape – the Rhône Valley. The area under vine is expansive, running from the city of Vienne in the north to the architectural masterpiece of Avignon.
The wider area has traditionally been split into two sub-regions: northern Rhône and southern Rhône. Southern Rhône is home to the Valley’s most iconic wine district – Châteauneuf-du-Pape. After gaining recognition as land of the Pope in the 1300s, the region has steadily cemented its place in the global wine industry. It remains France’s premier showcase for catering to a variety of palates, preferences and budgets.
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The history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the jewel of the southern Rhône wine region. The centre of fine wine production for the appellation (created in 1929) is a historic village, located in the Southeast of France, sandwiched between the towns of Orange and Avignon. Translated as “new castle of the Pope”, it refers to a papal palace, built in the early 1300s for Pope Clement V. Six successive Popes made full use of the palace, maintaining a presence in southern France until the 1400s.
The religious significance of the region has long since declined, yet the great wine that bears its name – also known as vin du Pape (the Pope’s wine) – is now regarded as the most dynamic and important appellation in the southern Rhône Valley. There are approximately 3,200 hectares under vine, cultivated in a diverse range of soils and micro-climates. Châteauneuf-du-Pape has always had the distinction of having the highest minimum alcohol content (12.5% abv.) of any French wine.
Prior to the 20th century, the wines of Rhône Valley had no great reputation. Baron Le Roy sought to change that, by creating a delimited wine zone, enforcing strict rules designed to keep quality standards uniformly high. The regulations laid down permitted grape varieties, yield and alcohol level. The Baron was also interested in delimiting certain terroir as superior.
The climate of Southern Rhône Valley
Make no mistake, there is no one size fits all approach in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over 90% of the production is red wine, which varies hugely in style and price. The unifier is arguably the climate; Mediterranean summers characterised by typically dry and hot weather from June to October. Yet variances in soil structure, altitude and aspect maintain a pleasing heterogeneity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine.
The terroir of Southern Rhône Valley
The area is renowned for an abundance of round rocks, called galets roulés. these rock fragments are important for growers, as they prevent water evaporation from the soil surface — a precious resource in the southern Rhône Valley! Every grower recognises the superlative quality of the wines made in the sub-zone of ‘La Crau’, situated to the east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The terroir has no equal in the appellation; large galets roulés sit atop water-retentive clay soils. Red wines made from La Crau have no parallel in the southern Rhône. Alternatively, to these galets, winegrowers have a multitude of soil options, including iron-rich clay, sandy clay, limestone and gravelly alluvium. Many winery estates own vineyards planted on several different soil types, which they either blend into one cuvée to enhance complexity, or showcase the particular qualities of a unique terroir.
Key grape varieties and wine styles in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cultural attitudes to grape varieties in the southern Rhône are the antitheses of the Burgundian philosophy. Growers in the Côte de Nuits are only permitted to produce single-varietal wines, whereas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape allows up to 18 grspes to be blended together. In addition, both red and white grape varieties can be blended into red or white wines in the appellation, with no set rules on permitted percentages.
Although, just three red grapes form the backbone of the appellation’s red wines: Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvedre. Between them, they account for about 90% of all vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
- Grenache – this robust grape variety can withstand significant periods of heat and drought; the variety will ripen to very high levels of alcohol and flavour concentration. It thrives on metamorphic soils, such as schist and quartz, yielding potent wines that can age for decades. When blended with Syrah and Mourvedre, the results are quite spectacular. Grenache Noir is widely respected for adding fire and spice to the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
- Syrah – The noble red grape of the northern Rhône Valley, is renowned for its tell-tale notes of pepper, chocolate, plum, red berries and black cherry. When blended with the Grenache grape and Mourvedre, Syrah makes dark, long-lived and aromatic wines. It adds a savoury ‘kick’ to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Syrah responds to its terroir and climate with razor sharp precision, forming potent wines in the southern Mediterranean.
- Mourvedre – This grape undeniably lacks the global fame of Syrah and Grenache. Yet it is becoming more popular in the Côtes du Rhône, as it can tolerate the summer heat. The grape contributes weight and freshness to the Châteauneauf-du-Pape blends, with typically ripe acidity and a signature notes of violets, black fruit and tobacco.
Traditionally, growers would age their cuvées in very large old oak vats (foudres), or occasionally concrete/steel tanks for a period of 18-30 months. This viticultural philosophy was anchored in a mistrust of the flavours of new oak. But attitudes seldom remain static, and a growing firmament are experimenting with new oak, or second-hand oak barrels used for Burgundy wines. If used judiciously, new wood adds structure and energy to an already high-quality style. Used clumsily, new oak can ruin Châteauneuf-du-Pape, subjugating the wonderfully expressive red fruit. Thankfully, far more winemakers are succeeding than failing.
Other grape varieties
There is a (relatively) small volume of Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picpoul Noir and Terret Noir cultivated in the appellation. Certain growers like to use a dash of Cinsault, Counoise, Terret Noir and possibly Vaccarese, to add freshness and complexity to the overall blend. Single-varietal cuvées are almost unheard of, although single-vineyard wines are becoming more common.
The appellation markets a small number of aromatic whites, often based on a concoction of Grenache Blanc, Roussane, Clairette, Bourboulenc and even Chenin Blanc. Occasionally, growers will blend in Grenache Gris, Picpoul and Picardin. The best examples show finesse in their youth, with inviting notes of apricots, pear and citrus, set against an oily texture. After prolonged bottle age, an array of exotic scents emerge, including tea-tree oil, saffron and honeysuckle. They are true originals.
What does Chateauneuf-du-Pape have to offer?
There are few appellations in France that offer winemakers such a bewildering array of options regarding grape varieties, site selection and winemaking. Although there are stringent rules to follow, the framework also gives producers the freedom to craft wines as they see fit. One of the key differentiating factors is the approach to fine wine maturation.
The greatest red wines from the top vintages—both new and traditional styles—are simply magnificent. Although one will encounter variances in body, oak influence and alcohol, all good Châteauneuf-du-Pape is defined by its intensity of flavour and velvety tannin. Taken as a whole, Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be described as a marriage between ripe fruit and alcohol, with extraordinary concentration on the mid-palate. Over time, this raw power will mellow, revealing a mosaic of tertiary tasting notes. Above all, Châteauneuf-du-Pape delivers the hedonistic delights of a spicy and potent red. The pleasure principle is what local growers believe in.
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