At first glance, the Côte Chalonnaise region appears to be a continuation of the winemaking philosophy and style of the Côte d’Or. The landscape is remarkably similar: rolling pastoral hills, dense woodland, timeless villages and a sea of vines. Like the Côte d’Or, growers in the Côte Chalonnaise are overwhelmingly dedicated to the cultivation of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, producing elegant and fine wines.

Yet, to describe the Côte Chalonnaise as an ‘imitation’ of the Côte d’Or would be grossly unfair. Wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay often taste perceptibly different, due to the cooler microclimate and moderate alcohol. In addition, local growers occasionally produce wines form the Gamay and Aligoté grape varieties. Meanwhile, Cremant de Bourgogne (the local bubbly) is getting more popular with every vintage. There is a world of diversity and quality waiting to be discovered in this part of Burgundy.

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Geography and terroir

The Côte Chalonnaise is situated in the Saône-et-Loire department (province) of Burgundy, south of the town of Chagny. It is composed of five key communes, each of which has been awarded its own appellation. Running from north to south, these are Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. The overall climate is continental, with relatively cold winters and warm, dry summers.

Broadly, the soils of the Côte Chalonnaise bear a striking resemblance to the terroir of the Côte d’Or. Both regions contain a mixture of different limestones, while gravel and limestone mixed with clay predominates in certain appellations. The main difference is microclimate, due to the higher elevation of vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise, and the exposure to the prevailing westerly winds. The vines need more hours of sun to ripen their grapes fully; in difficult vintages, lesser wines from the region can be fiercely acidic and dilute. As a result, the most coveted vineyards are planted on hills with a south-facing aspect, on well-drained soils.

Today, the Côte Chalonnaise is regarded as one of Burgundy’s most important wine zones. Astronomical land prices have encouraged respected producers from the Côte d’Or to invest in the region, bringing a wealth of expertise and innovation. There are no Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise, but four of the five appellations contain exceptional Premier Cru vineyards. The success of the Côte Chalonnaise demonstrates that premium quality and value are not mutually exclusive commodities. The appellations listed below have much to offer the Burgundy lover.

Bouzeron

Head south from the town of Chagny and you’ll soon arrive in Bouzeron. The best climats (vineyard sites) are found on the south-facing slopes of a valley which lies parallel with and between the villages of Santenay and Rully. There are approximately 100 hectares under vine, planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and the once maligned Aligoté.

In the wrong hands, Aligoté can be tart and acidic, with little to recommend. Yet if the grape is cultivated on the right soils and handled with care, it produces racy and aromatic wine. In 1979, a separate appellation was created specifically for 100% Aligoté wines: Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron. Nevertheless, the wines were not generally highly regarded in the 20th century.

Fortunately, one man has done much to improve the grape’s reputation. Aubert de Villaine, the director of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, produces a delicious Aligoté wine in Bouzeron. His wines are matured in large wooden casks, offering a tantalising mixture of beautiful aromas, fruit concentration and fresh acidity. They represent Aligoté at its finest and are probably the best Aligoté wines being made in France today.

Of course, the soil plays an important role. Aligoté thrives in the limestone-rich marls of Bouzeron; the lack of surface soils helps to curtail the natural vigour of the grape variety, encouraging low yields and consequently better wine. Yet the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines made in Bouzeron are no less excellent. The best examples are ripe, aromatic and fresh. They are often sold under the appellation Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise.

Rully

The commune owes its name to a Gallo-Roman lord named Rubilius, who was a passionate consumer of the local vin. Over the years, Rully established a strong reputation for its wines, finally awarded appellation status in 1939. Its vineyards begin in the suburbs of Chagny and continue south to the boundary of Mercurey. Local growers cultivate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines, although the commune produces far more white wine overall. Both the red and white wines offer exceptional value today.

Still wines are not the only driving force behind Rully’s prosperity. In the early 19th century, ambitious wineries pioneered the first sparkling wines of Burgundy, which often blend Aligoté with Chardonnay to produce Cremant de Bourgogne. They remain a vital part of the local economy—over four million bottles are made annually.

Rully’s soils date back to the Jurassic period. Limestone marls characterise the majority of the area under vine, while red and clay-rich soils are found at lower altitudes. Here there have been 23 climats awarded Premier Cru status, producing floral white wines and elegant, soft Pinot Noir reds. Some growers use new oak to add flavour and structure to their wines. They are sold at very attractive prices.

Mercurey

Mercurey is the best-known appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise, accounting for about 40% of the region’s red wines. It is a large commune, cultivating more vineyards than Beaune or Gevrey-Chambertin. Around a quarter of Mercurey’s vineyards are classified as Premier Cru. The best sites are found on slopes which face due south, located north of the village.

The warmer microclimate and limestone-rich soils are responsible for the most structured and refined Pinot Noir in the Côte Chalonnaise. Moreover, there is no lack of reputable winemakers and merchants in the zone, including Domaine Faiveley, Michel Juillot and Antonin Rodet. Their top Mercurey wines are rich and ample, with a depth and elegance more commonly associated with the Côte d’Or. If you’re lucky enough to encounter one of the rare white wines, expect succulent ripe fruit and bags of acidity.

Givry

Half the size of Mercurey, Givry is the smallest of the major appellations. The heartland of the commune is a series of southeast-facing slopes, located immediately above the town. This is where you’ll find the best of Givry’s Premier Cru vineyards. Like Mercurey, very little white wine is made in Givry. The soils resemble those of the Maconnais region further south; sandy limestone as opposed to the marl and chalk which (generally) define Rully and Mercurey. There are also small bands of red clay. At their best, the red wines of Givry are stylish and refined, with pronounced aromas of red berries, sour cherry and damson. They belong at the dinner table.

Montagny

The Montagny appellation is dedicated to the production of Chardonnay wines. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s leading producers, invested in the zone decades ago, recognising the untapped potential of the area’s terroir. There are over 330 hectares under vine, including over 200 hectares classified as Premier Cru land. The best climats lie on a series of southeast-facing hills below the village of Buxy in the communes of Montagny, Jully-Les Buxy and Saint-Vallerin. They are all entitled to bottle wine under the Montagny appellation, as long as they respect rules pertaining to yield and minimum alcohol.

The terroir is very highly regarded; limestone rock dating back to the Jurassic period. There is also clay and quartz in certain vineyards. In parts of the appellation, the soil is deep, thicker than elsewhere in Côte Chalonnaise. Powerful soils, as it turns out, produce powerful wine.

Indeed, Montagny represents Chardonnay at its most full and opulent. Stylistically, top Montagny white wines are quite distinct from Rully, offering more concentration and body. Critics love the honeyed, fruit-driven wines of the appellation, celebrating their opulence and weight. If you choose judiciously, you can pick up a bargain in this part of the world. The best Chardonnay wines are every bit as good as Meursault, but the ample supply has kept prices relatively modest.

Of course, Montagny is not a status symbol—it cannot replicate the prestige of Grand Cru Montrachet. But true connoisseurs have never been interested in trophies, or the speculative power of wine. They buy for pleasure, something that the Côte Chalonnaise offers in generous abundance.

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