Piedmont wine regions: Barolo vs Barbaresco
Situated in Northwest Italy, the Piedmont wine region has become the nation’s poster child for authenticity. It offers an incredible palate of indigenous grape varieties, wine styles and unique terroirs. There is a vivacity, raciness, and originality to Piedmont’s output that cannot be replicated. Shiraz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon have a relatively minor role to play here. The flavours of Piedmont are largely its own.
At the top of the viticultural hierarchy stands the hauntingly beautiful Nebbiolo grape. It has long been the region’s most prized export. Simply put, if you want world-class Nebbiolo wines, then you must limit your search to Piedmont. A number of winegrowers have attempted to produce imitations in Australia, California and even Mexico. However, their endeavours have, thus far, met with little success. The grape has developed a unique bond and synergy with the soils of Piedmont that has yet to be replicated.
Click on a link to jump to that section:
Barolo, Barbaresco and the Nebbiolo grape
Today, there are good quality Nebbiolo-based wines being made in several sub-zones across the Piedmont wine region. Nonetheless, few critics would deny that it produces the most profound and complex wine in the appellations of Barolo and Barbaresco. A late-ripening variety, renowned for its exquisite perfume and ability to age, Nebbiolo is solely responsible for these two prestigious red wine styles. Both appellations were awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status in 1980. They take their names from villages situated in the Langhe hills, on the right bank of the River Tanaro. Barbaresco’s vineyards can be found to the northeast of Alba, while Barolo is located to the southwest of the city.
The two zones have much in common. For a start, the DOCG rules governing production do not allow Barolo or Barbaresco’s growers to blend in other grape varieties. And yet, there are key points of difference in terroir (growing conditions) and winemaking. There are telltale signs that help critics to quickly identify Barolo and Barbaresco wines, without even glancing at a label.
Wine production
In terms of annual production, Barbaresco has less than half as much vineyard acreage as Barolo, therefore releasing a far smaller quantity of wine. But more importantly, Barbaresco’s vineyards are generally planted at lower altitudes than Barolo, which encourages warmer conditions and a fast rate of ripening. In addition, the region’s vineyards lie in closer proximity to the Tanaro River, creating a maritime influence which is responsible for increased precipitation and less temperature variation in Barbaresco’s vineyards. As a result, the grapes are picked earlier than in neighbouring Barolo and often contain less powerful tannin.
Of course, there are always shades of grey in viticulture. Piedmont’s continental climate—warm summers, cold winters—is also moderated by the extremely heterogeneous vineyards of Barolo. Every patch of vines, it seems, boasts a different elevation and aspect. This creates a complex mosaic of micro-climates within the appellation, and differences in soil structure are no less varied. Certain sites are rich in calcareous marls, while other vineyards are planted on sandstone soils, with varying degrees of sand and silt in the mix. Nevertheless, it is almost certain that Barbaresco’s vineyards will ripen at a faster rate.
In addition, Barbaresco’s consorzio (ruling council) enforces a minimum ageing period of two years in barrel, compared to three years in Barolo. The wines of Barbaresco are often more approachable in their youth, an undeniable advantage in our fast-paced world. The oak influence will usually be more apparent in Barolo wines.
Historically, Barolo and Barbaresco’s output largely consisted of blended wines. Here, we have another point of similarity. Producers would use grapes obtained from different sub-zones across the region, blending to achieve greater complexity. But recently, single-vineyard expressions have become popular. Some of the most expensive wines from both regions are made from named vineyards; the terms bric or bricco are used to describe individual vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco. Barolo’s most famous terroirs include Cannubi and Cerequio, the latter being renowned for its magnesium-rich soils and south-eastern facing aspect, responsible for ripening Nebbiolo to glorious intensity.
In Barbaresco, Santo Stefano, Bricco di Neive and Martinenga are regarded as some of the finest sites for Nebbiolo in Piedmont. These named vineyards or ‘climats’ all benefit from perfect drainage, slope and aspect, with old vines producing wines of remarkable concentration and purity. Increasingly, growers will emphasise the vineyard name on the front label, mirroring the culture in Burgundy. Equally, many respected winemakers in Barolo and its neighbour are committed to producing excellent blended wines. One style cannot claim innate superiority over the other.
Wine styles
Many aficionados of Piedmont wines are fascinated by the stylistic variances seen across different appellations that cultivate the same grape. In the case of Barolo and Barbaresco, we find polarity and unifying characteristics. Typically, Barolo and Barbaresco wines will display red fruit aromas in their youth, overlaid with notes of forest floor, spice and leather. Older bottles reveal tertiary flavours of tar, black truffle and tobacco. Top vintages of Barolo can age for decades; an additional year of barrel ageing adds considerable heft and structure to the wines.
In contrast, a typical Barbaresco wine will have a softer structure, with less tannin and extract. Ripe vintages of Barbaresco can usually be enjoyed four to five years after the harvest. Barolo, ever potent and concentrated, usually needs at least 10 years bottle age for the tannins to soften, and for the inherent complexity to emerge. Both styles should have an instantly recognizable cut of acidity. It plays a vital role in keeping Nebbiolo’s inherent power in check.
Indeed, there is much that unites the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. Their growers are in love with single-vineyard expressions, relentlessly promoting Nebbiolo as a pinnacle of fine red wine. The best wines of both areas command high prices. However, critics did not traditionally view them as equals.
Until relatively recently, there was a broad consensus that Barolo produced the better wine; more complex, refined and long-lived. But one man was determined to set the record straight. Angelo Gaja has done much for the reputation of Barbaresco. After joining the family business in the 1960s, Gaja revolutionised winemaking in the region. Yields were drastically lowered (the entire vintage was sold off in bulk after a disastrous growing season in 1984) and the wines were aged in new French oak. Previously, his company favoured ageing for long periods in old oak casks, imbuing the wines with formidable tannins. Modern Barbaresco is a wine where the tannins play a supporting, not domineering role.
The quality mantle has been passed to his daughters Gaia and Rossana. They continue to ensure that Gaja’s single-vineyard Barbaresco wines fetch a handsome price. Angela Gaja has categorically proven that the differences between the two regions are purely stylistic in nature, dispelling the myth that Barolo makes finer wine. Ultimately, there is no need to pick sides.