An insider’s guide to the Côtes de Gascogne
West of Toulouse lie some of France’s oldest vineyards. Gascony is famous for its bucolic scenery, rich gastronomy, medieval architecture and glacial pace of life. Gascony was absorbed into the Occitania administrative area in 2016, created to unify parts of Languedoc-Roussillon and the Midi-Pyrénées. But old habits die hard: wine professionals still use the term Gascony when describing the region’s wines.
Gascony contains several historic appellations and wine styles, including Armagnac and the powerful reds of Madiran. Yet the area’s most important designation is undoubtedly IGP Côtes de Gascogne. A great deal of excellent red and white wine is made under the auspices of the IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) framework, which replaced the Vin de Pays designation in 2009. Officially, IGPs are a mid-quality point between Vin de France and AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) wines. They offer more flexibility in terms of permitted grape varieties and geographical limits.
Nevertheless, it is important to remember that IGP rules only stipulate minimum requirements; many respected growers do not approach the maximum permitted crop, in order to maintain quality. Côtes de Gascogne is a fertile hunting ground for the value-conscious buyer.
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Geography and terroir
The Côtes de Gascogne production zone is centred around a great swathe of vineyards that flank the city of Auch, in southwest France. The area under vine cuts across three administrative departments: Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne. Auch was an important commercial hub during the Roman occupation of Gascony. It remains a very unspoiled and timeless part of Europe, despite the financial importance of local viticulture. Today, over 60% of Côtes de Gascogne’s total volume is exported to markets as diverse as the UK, US, and Japan.
There are approximately 12,000 hectares under vine, with vineyards rolling from Auch heading west towards the Atlantic. The vast majority of local grapes planted are white, including local specialties like Courbu, Gros Manseng and Colombard. In such an expansive territory, there are inevitably variances in soil, aspect, elevation, and meso-climate.
The westerly vineyards are heavily influenced by their proximity to the ocean, with relatively mild summer temperatures and wet springs. The terroir is dominated by sandy alluvial soils with good drainage and ample rainfall, which unfortunately can occur at harvest time which is why early-to-mid ripening white varieties tend to produce the best wine under these conditions.
On the other hand, the eastern section enjoys a continental climate, with warm summers and significantly less rainfall. Clay-limestone is the predominant soil type, retaining that all-important moisture in dry vintages. Some of Côtes de Gascogne’s vineyards are used to make both Armagnac and dry styles, as they share the same geographical boundaries.
Sub-regions
The vineyard zone is split into three sub-regions: Bas-Armagnac; Amagnac-Ténarèze and Haut-Armagnac. Bas-Armagnac is renowned for its sandy terroir and fragrant whites, located in the western expanse of the appellation. Meanwhile, Armagnac-Ténarèze tends to produce white and red wines with a higher abv and more body, due to the warmer meso-climate. Haut-Armagnac is the smallest of this trio; cold limestone terroir yields beautiful white wine, with ample acidity and freshness.
Key grape varieties
White grapes
- Chardonnay – the world’s most famous white grape, Chardonnay is adaptable and can be cultivated in a broad range of terroirs and climates, producing an eclectic palate of styles. Gascon expressions tend to be fruit-forward and buttery, with good acidity and grip.
- Sauvignon Blanc – new Zealand’s signature export also thrives across the French landscape, yielding piercingly aromatic and fresh white wines. Grassy aromas and a strong hint of gooseberry are often detected in wines made in Gascony. They are best drunk relatively young.
- Colombard – one of the most widely planted varieties in France, Colombard is much-appreciated for its robust nature and generous crop. However, if the yield is managed then Colombard will produce brisk and refreshing white wine for early consumption.
- Gros Manseng – the star grape of the Jurançon region is increasingly used by growers in Gascony to make aromatic and dry white wines, celebrated for their vibrant citrus bouquet and ripe acidity. Gros Manseng will yield wines of sumptuous texture and weight in warm climates.
- Courbu Blanc – rescued from near-extinction by the Plaimont cooperative, Courbu Blanc is indigenous to the Gascony region. It is used to make both dry and sweet styles, with an attractive tasting note of honey, lime, and white flowers on the palate.
Red grapes
- Cabernet Sauvignon – planted throughout the globe, this grape has a long-established track record of making powerful red wine, much-loved for its famous bouquet of cassis and cedarwood. With careful winemaking and barrel maturation, Cabernet Sauvignon can live to a ripe old age.
- Cabernet Franc – traditionally used in Bordeaux as an insurance policy (in case the Cabernet Sauvignon failed to ripen), growers are now fashioning standalone wines from this splendid red grape. It produces perfumed and silky wines in Gascony which belong at the dinner table.
- Malbec (Cot) – known by its synonym ‘Cot’ in southwest France, Malbec produces medium-bodied and savoury dry reds in Gascony – quite different from the Mendoza archetype.
- Tannat – the clue is in the name: Tannat’s skins are packed full of tannin and extract, producing concentrated and structured red wines. A speciality of the Pyrenees, Tannat is cultivated by a relatively small number of growers in Gascony, often added to blends.
Côtes de Gascogne today
You cannot pigeonhole the wines of Gascony. One bottle may contain Sauvignon Blanc – a dead ringer for Touraine in the Loire Valley. Another may be a potent mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat; spicy, tannic, and deeply concentrated. The region continues to export a diverse portfolio of grape varieties, embracing the freedom of the IGP framework. There is no such thing as a ‘typical’ Côtes de Gascogne label.
However, we can make some observations about the evolving Gascony wine culture. In the 20th century, Gascony was not renowned for the quality of its dry wines. However, most winegrowers have upgraded their equipment and viticultural techniques over the past 15 years, encouraged by the burgeoning market for aromatic styles. Côtes de Gascogne produces predominantly white wine, although the small volume of red and rosé export is becoming more popular in markets like the UK.
Blending is an integral part of the wine culture in Gascony, IGP rules encourage growers to reference the local grape variety on their front label. Colombard is routinely blended with Chardonnay, while Gros Manseng/Sauvignon Blanc cuvées are also becoming quite trendy. White wines are usually fresh and aromatic; rosés are effortlessly quaffable and red wines are approachable and filled with fruity flavour.
Côtes de Gascogne wines are increasingly favoured by sommeliers, due to their enviable food-matching possibilities. Perfumed dry whites are ideal with white fish or shellfish or simply enjoyed as a thirst-quenching aperitif. Gros Manseng (blended or otherwise) shines alongside foie gras and grilled chicken – try sashimi with Courbu Blanc. The red wines are no less versatile or adaptable. If you really want to dive into local gastronomy, serve Cabernet Sauvignon/Tannat with confit de canard for culinary heaven.