Veneto red wines: a modern-day transformation

If you want an example of a viticultural transformation, look to the Veneto wine region. Its vineyards stretch from the village of Soave located east of Verona to the shores of Lake Garda, forming a beautiful and undulating part of the Italian landscape. Yet for decades, red wines produced in this vast swathe of land were largely ignored. There were some notable exceptions; Amarone della Valpolicella has a long-established prestigious image. Nevertheless, the majority of the area’s growers were fixated on quantity rather than quality.

In the 20th century, over 75% of Veneto vineyards were cultivated by growers who sold directly to co-operatives. Grape prices were suppressed, so there was little incentive to cultivate lower yields and produce better wine. The proximity to tourist-centric hotspots like Verona, Lake Garda and Venice ensured that there was a ready-and-willing market for inexpensive plonk.

However, the last 15 years have witnessed a revolution in the Veneto region, with an impressive upsurge in quality. Veneto’s winegrowers are now releasing a surfeit of terroir-driven red wines with real class and distinction. Yields have been drastically lowered in the area’s key winemaking zones and sustainable viticulture has been embraced by many producers. The Veneto region is now a treasure trove of both long-established and esoteric red wine styles.

Veneto climate and geography

The Veneto region’s climate is highly conducive to quality winemaking. A typical growing season enjoys dry (but not generally hot) summers and cold winters. There is sufficient rainfall and a significant day/night temperature variation, which helps to maintain acidity in the wines. Moreover, the lake breezes and gusts of cool air transported from the neighbouring Alps help to moderate the summer heat, with temperatures rarely approaching the excesses of southern Italy. This mix of cool temperatures and bright sunshine is responsible for ripening grapes in the Bardolino sub-region without sacrificing freshness and acidity. As a result, the wines are imbued with a delectable racy quality, soft tannins and gorgeous red fruit. The style is always approachable on release and has found its niche as the perfect summer drink.

Moving further east, you’ll discover a wider range of wine styles in the expansive Valpolicella DOC zone. There are over 19,000 acres of land planted to vines, in an extremely diverse region. The geographical boundaries run from the village of S. Ambrogio di Valpolicella, situated 15 kilometres northeast of Verona, to the town of Garda in the far east of the zone. It is a very heterogeneous appellation, with significant differences in soil, aspect and elevation. With everything from gravel/alluvial terroir to volcanic soils rich in minerals, the soil variance is fascinating. It has been a DOC region since 1968, although Valpolicella has expanded well beyond the original geographical boundaries. The historical Valpolicella zone was the immediate neighbour of Bardolino, and is now referred to as ‘Valpolicella Classico’ to distinguish it from the expanded territory entitled to make Valpolicella wine. The Classico appellation adjoins the Valpantena sub-zone, a superior terroir considered equal to Valpolicella Classico.

While the area under vine expanded considerably in the 20th century, quality declined as winegrowers focused on releasing mass-market wines. Though it would be disingenuous to claim that every grower in Valpolicella is interested in quality, there is now a mass of producers making premium wines. Terroir has become their top focus, as many of the best sites are found in the lower foothills of the Venetian Alps in an area called Monti Lessini. The most structured wines are made here, from vines planted in the villages of Fumane, San Ambrogio and Negrar. A sub-category of Valpolicella Superiore wines made in small quantities often use grapes sourced from these vineyards. To qualify as a Superiore wine, the minimum alcohol must be 11% and the wines must be aged for one year prior to commercial release.

Veneto red grapes

Valpolicella wines can be based on a varying blend of four indigenous grape varieties: Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella, and Corvinone. The late-ripening Corvina is the key ingredient in all Valpolicella wines, celebrated for its delectable flavours of sour cherry, damson and raspberry. The Corvinone grape is used to add structure and alcohol, while Rondinella and Molinara are high acid varieties that are useful in warmer vintages. A growing number of local growers are also embracing organic and biodynamic viticulture. Synthetic pesticides and herbicides are being phased out in favour of eco-friendly inputs.

The best examples from the zone are delicious and always approachable red wines. Despite a generally light-to-medium body, there is an intensity of flavour and mouth-filling texture inherent to the greatest Valpolicella wines and they always shine when paired alongside local gastronomy. The lively acidity, moderate tannin and ample freshness that flows effortlessly from the region’s red wines is custom-built for the dinner table. A range of red meat and pasta dishes would provide an excellent pairing.

Veneto red wine appellations

The wider Valpolicella region is also home to several individual styles of wine, one of which is Amarone della Valpolicella. The style was awarded its own DOC appellation in 1990, upgraded to DOCG status in 2009. It is the most alcoholic, powerful and potent wine style made in the zone. Red grapes are subjected to a desiccation process, which removes water from the grapes and concentrates the remaining sugars. Traditionally, growers would use natural sunlight to dry the grapes, leaving them exposed in hillside lofts throughout the autumn season. However, the majority of wineries now employ temperature-controlled warehouses to air-dry their grapes slowly and carefully. According to the DOCG rules, they must be dried out to a minimum of 14% potential alcohol in a process is known as ‘appassimento’ in Italian. Thereafter, the regulations strictly control how Amarone is made. The consorzio does not allow producers to ferment their wines before the first December after the harvest. After fermentation, wines are aged for a minimum of two years in Slavonian or French oak.

Amarone continues to command a loyal following among those who seek opulent concentration from their wines. With a typical alcohol level of 15% abv, Amarone is rarely understated. Yet it often manages to balance such potent concentration with a noticeable acid line which cuts through the mouth-coating profile of black and red fruits. A younger wine will typically offer aromas of chocolate, damson, black cherry and strawberry, supporting a rich and broad palate. With further bottle age, notes of dried fig, cinnamon, truffle and spice should emerge. The top wines from the zone are always balanced and not overblown. They provide the ideal partner to rich casseroles, game birds, red meat and local cheeses.

The Bardolino wine zone is an appellation long associated with the exquisite beauty of the Italian lakes. It is situated on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, where growers have been cultivating three indigenous grapes (Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella) for centuries. The zone was awarded DOC status in 1968. In recent times, Bardolino has introduced higher-tier classifications with three designations: Bardolino, Bardolino Classico and Bardolino Superiore. The latter two are distinguished by their insistence upon a smaller geographical area and more stringent rules on yield and ageing. Additionally, the region’s consorzio changed the regulations in the 21st century to allow growers to include other grape varieties in their wines, including Merlot and Sangiovese (maximum of 20%), satisfying traditionalists and modernists alike.

Elsewhere, the Veneto region is a treasure trove of appellations and red wine styles that rarely leave Italy. Garda is an expansive DOC appellation, encompassing the zones of Soave and Valpolicella. It allows the blending of indigenous and international varieties, as does the designation ‘IGT Veneto’. Growers have been making excellent Pinot Noir wines in the Veneto zone under the flexible IGT rules.

South of the city of Vincenza are the little-known sub-zones of Colli Berici and Colli Euganei. Growers work with Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Merlot in the vast plains of Berici, in addition to Grenache, known locally as Tai Rosso. The best Colli Berici wines are made exclusively from this popular red variety. Meanwhile, growers situated northeast of Venice have achieved remarkable success with Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the appellation of Piave. Equally, the indigenous red variety of Piave, Raboso, is much-loved for its aromas of violets and black cherry. It is seldom found outside of Italy, although a few growers are starting to export.

The Veneto region has become a gift to the modern oenophile who seeks a point of difference. The region-wide renewed emphasis on quality ensures that disappointing bottles are rarely encountered. It is true that some of the region’s appellations are planted to international grapes, but the unique terroir of the Veneto region imbues them with a fresh identity all of their own.