Why choose a Chianti Classico wine?
During the 1800s, Chianti red wines were simply the local quaffing material of Florence and Siena, varying from fresh and tangy to positively undrinkable. Two centuries later, tourists continue to enjoy the squat Chianti bottles enclosed in a straw basket (fiaschi in Italian) as an obligatory part of their Tuscan adventure. This version of Chianti has many fans. Both appetising and easy to drink, yet bearing little resemblance to the powerful, complex and structured wines of Chianti Classico.
Chianti is produced in a wide-reaching area in central Tuscany, made in seven sub-zones including Chianti Rufina (found east of Florence) and Chianti Colli Senesi, a region situated in the hills above Siena. Over 100 miles of vineyards from north to south are entitled to produce wine labelled as Chianti. At its best, Chianti is a very pleasant mouthful of light wine. But it’s also far less ambitious than Chianti Classico DOCG, which is made according to much stricter conditions.
In Chianti Classico, enthusiasts and collectors will discover a fine wine that is inimitably Tuscan, yet a poster child for individual choices and diversity. Winemaking philosophies and viticultural ideas vary greatly in central Tuscany, although the Chianti Classico zone does insist upon certain immutable standards. Membership of the Chianti Classico DOCG club requires that you cultivate vineyards in a demarcated zone (located between Florence and Siena), right at the heart of Italy’s rural splendour.
After decades of disagreement and evolution, the Chianti Classico is entering an unprecedented golden age. The inclusion of white grapes into Chianti Classico DOCG blends has been forbidden, while the addition of international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is now limited to 15%. This rule was created to maintain the region’s signature—and much-loved—style.
The Tuscan view of things is fluid at the best of times, but there is a consensus that Sangiovese (a red grape variety) must always constitute the backbone of great Chianti Classico. A minimum of 80% is insisted upon; the wines must also be aged for a minimum of 12 months in wood, containing at least 12% alcohol. Thereafter, winemakers are free to tinker and modify the formulae as they see fit. Some prefer to age in French oak barrels, whilst others so much as entertain the thought of a barrique. Cabernet Sauvignon has a welcome, if legally controlled, home in certain bottles of Chianti Classico, adding structure and complexity. Yet traditionalists find the practice abhorrent.
The question of how ‘foreign’ grape varieties should be used in the Chianti Classico wine region will always be with us. In the end, it is very much an issue of personal taste. Moreover, it is clear that Tuscan wine had to go through this phase of embracing imported grapes such as Merlot in order to find its way. The 21st century has seen a proud reaffirmation of Tuscan traditions: top-quality Sangiovese can give immense pleasure, but with a new elegance and focus which elevates modern Chianti Classico above its historical counterparts.
The techniques and expertise of contemporary winemaking are being put to exceptional use in 2021. However, retail prices have not yet reached stratospheric levels, partly because of the reluctance of local winemakers to render their products inaccessible to ‘mere mortals’. The best Chianti Classico wines are not designed for oligarchs, although they would be wise to explore their charms. They are made for enthusiasts of delicious and approachable fine wine.
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Chianti Classico Riservas
If Chianti Classico wines are reliably excellent, then the Riserva category adds an extra layer of sheen and polish. They are only produced in the best years—and from exceptional vineyard plots—allowing the individual wine estate to market a super-premium version of Sangiovese. Once the grapes have been harvested, the winemaker must age their wines for a minimum period of 24 months in wood (the type of vessel can vary considerably) and three months in bottle.
Of course, many estates go above and beyond the legal requirements, ageing for far longer. All bottles of Chianti Classico Riserva must also contain a minimum ABV of 12.5%. It is a remarkably consistent category of wine, albeit with numerous stylistic differences due to harvest and winemaking variations.
Gran Selezione Chianti Classico
The authorities introduced the Gran Selezione category to enthusiasts in 2014; it has quickly become a byword for supreme quality in the region. To qualify, a wine estate has to jump through several rigorous hoops. They must attain a minimum level of alcohol (13%) and age their best wines for at least 30 months in oak. Only grapes harvested from vineyards belonging to the estate can be used. Only if an expert tasting panel is satisfied with the results, can the winemaker proclaim ‘Gran Selezione’ on their label. The panel is seldom in a forgiving mood, which is only to our benefit. It ensures that the tiny volume of Gran Selezione wines always live up to their billing.
Popular Chianti Classico vintages
Tuscany’s winegrowers have seen it all: summer hail, spring frosts, torrid summers and ideal growing conditions. Mix these unpredictable factors together, and you have a recipe for a very heterogeneous wine style. Vintage variations are one of the joys—and headaches—of winemaking, as any owner will attest to. In theory, the summer season should be warm (but not too hot) and dry. This enables Sangiovese to ripen to glorious perfection. Of course, things can often turn out quite differently.
However, everything does occasionally go to plan in central Tuscany. 2010 and 2013 were two vintages greeted with a big, big smile. Although growers had to contend with a wet spring in 2013, both years enjoyed warm, but not torrid, summer growing seasons which enabled Sangiovese to ripen slowly. In the fermenter, winemakers were dealing with ripe tannin, lovely red fruit flavours and beautiful acidity. As a result, both vintages are considered ‘classic’ and outstanding by wine critics.
In contrast, 2015 was a year of extremes. The winter season was exceptionally cold and wet, while in July and August temperatures rocketed well above 30 degrees centigrade. This long period of dry, hot weather produced a relatively small yield of concentrated berries, presenting a challenge in the autumn. Winemakers had to be careful not to extract too much tannin, while absorbing all the dazzling flavour that Sangiovese can provide. It was touch and go there for a moment, but in the end, they pulled it off. The best wines are both remarkably concentrated and fresh, proving that Chianti’s talented oenologists are not fazed by a challenge or two.
2016 was a different animal altogether. The vintage was far more straightforward than the preceding year; growers harvested ripe and healthy grapes in generally benign conditions. The bottles have proven to be very impressive—all ripe fruit and vibrant acidity. They are simply delicious.
Finally, 2017 will go down in Tuscany as the most capricious vintage on record. First there was frost; drought and baking heat then followed. It required a very skilled winemaker to avoid harsh tannin and overripe flavours in the fermentation tank. Fortunately, Chianti Classico’s top estates pulled off a magic trick. The top wines are concentrated and powerful, yet they lack the hard edges sometimes found in this extremely difficult growing season. If you want to buy with complete confidence, pick a reliable brand.