“The best wines are compelling, regal and beautiful. With a drinkability that will bring endless pleasure.”

We took to the road for one final time, and although the cancellation of the looming air traffic strike was a win, we’d have gladly stayed for an extra day of tasting 2023s. A vintage where tasting as much as possible is crucial.

We are heading to the Graves region. The closest major appellation to Bordeaux city, and some of the most historic châteaux. For context, each day we have been traveling as far as 60km (one way) to visit appellations such as Saint-Estèphe and Saint-Émilion. A reminder of how relatively large an area the Bordeaux wine region is and therefore why it’s so nuanced and terroir driven. And terroir is key in 2023.

Olivier Bernard has overseen over forty vintages at Domaine de Chevalier. Few can boast such experience. A legendary host and brilliant communicator. Instantly fatherly in his musings, he took us through the previous evening’s truly exceptional dinner line up of ‘4s’ (we had been admiring the empties) that went back to 1914 Château Lafite. Their own Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1984 had stood out. As was the wine I was tasting, to bring myself back into the room for a moment, the 2023 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is a stunning white.

The excellence of the white wines continued into the Pessac-Léognan UGC tasting at what is possibly the prettiest Château of them all; Carbonnieux. My advice is don’t forget the whites this year! At the top end, Pavilion Blanc de Château Margaux and Château Haut-Brion Blanc are outstanding – hard to choose between, like two great Tour de France competitors crossing the summit of Tourmalet together out of mutual respect.

There is a moreish minerality and salinity with a streak of electric fruit running through the best whites. At the mortal level Château De Fieuzal blanc (and red!) will offer astonishing value. Château La Louvière blanc a real under-the-radar pick, Châteaux Carbonnieux and Château Pape Clement Blanc shone. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, bien sur pour les blanc et rouge.

A red to be aware of is Le C des Carmes Haut Brion. Released later but the current vintage is absolutely delicious for drinking now. Château Malartic-Lagravière impressed, Château Pape Clement is getting better and better. Whilst a sleek and sensational Château Haut-Brion, for me, threw it’s hat into the ring at the last minute for wine of the week.

Sauternes was a delight. It’s important to highlight the insane value many of these unique wines provide. We all require a top sweet on regular occasions. Château Coutet (Barsac) and Château De Fargues my favourites, Château Climens and Château Suduiraut very classy options. Always take some halves and bottles of some of these marvels.

So, what a week. The theme can be best described as ‘Back to Bordeaux’. The best wines are compelling, regal and beautiful. With a drinkability that will bring endless pleasure. The style so many of us fell in love with in the first place. Simply put, wines that could only be from Bordeaux. No hyperbole is required for the best 2023s, an assurance, a very knowing nod of approval to what’s in your glass.

For fun, winemakers were asked to put together a vintage playlist, one song each to describe the vintage from their point of view. Hard to Explain by The Strokes seemed an astute description, by Château Batailley’s winemaking consultant Axel Marchal, of a vintage where the terroir did its own thing when confronted with a humid climate which was more tropical than it was Atlantic. The best terroir has performed superbly. Others included Eye of The Tiger, Whatever, Sultans of Swing, Set fire to the Rain – essentially timeless anthems. As you might expect from the greatest terroir, It’s Back to Bordeaux.

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If you have any questions about buying en primeur or the Bordeaux 2023 campaign, please email enprimeur@jeroboams.co.uk.