Savoie

Located on the very eastern edge of France, bordering Switzerland, is Savoie. This is a mountainous region, where vineyards pepper the rugged landscape, interspersed by towns, mountains and lakes. The broader Savoie region is sub-divided into the Bugey and Vin de Savoie sub-regions, in which roughly three-quarters of the production is geared toward white wine. Savoie is a cool climate, where many of the more familiar grape varieties would struggle to attain full ripeness. Jacquère is the main grape variety, primarily due to its high yield. Altesse, however, is the source of the region’s best wines, often found under the Roussette de Savoie or Roussette de Bugey appellations. In the hands of the best producers, it is floral, nutty and with good depth of flavour balanced by a charge of acidity. Chardonnay is also relatively widely planted, with wines showing a kind of alpine Chablis character. Mondeuse is the one standout red variety, producing wines of deep colour, note of pepper and a trademark bitterness. Gamay and Pinot Noir are also planted to varying success, with many notably light and brisk. The best wines generally come from a constellation of villages a few miles from Chambéry; Cruet, Arbin, Montmelian, Chignin and Apremont, on the south-facing hillsides of the Combe de Savoie.