2022 Alma de Cattleya Chardonnay, Sonoma County

Californian Chardonnay is vanishingly thin on the ground in my cellar, as I am ridiculously keen on elite versions from Australia (like the Port Phillip), and I keep the faith ticking over with carefully selected Burgundies. But, and this is a big but, when a quiet, detailed, soothing and refreshing Sonoma Chardonnay hits my glass, I am the first to admit I could be converted. The Alma de Cattleya wines appeared on my radar a couple of years ago when Jeroboams first tracked them down, and I was struck by the unruffled calm in the glass. There was none of the brash oak or the orange curd and lard notes found in chubby Cali-Chardies, and I felt that I was tasting wines made with Zen-like palates at the controls. This 2022 is the finest to date, and it provides a complete Chardonnay experience without tiring the senses. It also sends you back to the glass with reassuring regularity! -Matthew Jukes