2016 Riesling Heerkretz, Grosses Gewachs, Wagner Stempel, Rheinhessen (6 x Bottle)

White peach, apple and lime are accented by their pits and seeds as well as by raw hazelnut on a soaring nose that anticipates the infectious juiciness, glowing piquancy and bittersweet depth of the silken palate. As usual, there is sheer refreshment here, as well as transparency to mineral and herbal elements of which the corresponding Höllberg – impressive though it is in its overtly dense, more opaque way – can only dream. The finishing interaction of myriad fruit and mineral elements is almost kaleidoscopic and reveals a strikingly tactile dimension to its vibrant impingements of chalk, pepper and peach kernel.