La Clotte is one to watch over the next decade, a true insider's wine that is blossoming under the Ausone team (owners since 2014). This has gorgeous limestone character, sappy, plump but understated rich red fruit character and with spicy, herbal nuances that reveal themselves as it opens in the glass. Harvest October 2 to 6 (over those two separate days because this is just 4ha of vines). Conversion to organic farming since 2020. Old vines, average age 57 years, Thierry Lezin cellar master.

The 2020 La Clotte exudes depth and is intensely packed with dark red cherry, plum and blood orange fruit. Today, La Clotte is incredibly primary, with terrific fruit density but less in the way of aromatic complexity. That’s probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but readers will have to be patient. It spent 18 months in 100% new French oak, and there is some oak that still needs to integrate.

This is a wine that is worth watching every year right now, growing in confidence, precision, flesh, and terroir character. Brilliantly fleshy plum and raspberry fruits, chocolate, salinity, with a charred coffee bean edge. Harvest September 8 to 27. Conversion to organic farming began in 2020. 100% new oak, and new equipment in the winery, with smaller-sized vats. Great stuff from the Vauthier family.