Veneto whites wines: beyond Prosecco

The global success of Prosecco is hardly a trade secret. Produced from the Glera grape, Prosecco is made in a vast area that includes the administrative regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia in northeast Italy. Prosecco is always competitively priced, in addition to being an incredibly trendy sparkling wine that suits modern palates, offering a light, quaffable style and fresh acidity.

What is less commonly known is that the Prosecco consortium markets its wines under a quality pyramid. Prosecco labelled as Superiore is made from top quality sites in a strictly demarcated geographical area. At the top of the Superiore hierarchy stands the Valdobbiadene sub-zone, which is located entirely in the Veneto region. Awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status in 2009, the zone undoubtedly produces the finest Prosecco in Italy. Growers cultivate old vineyards in over 40 Rive (individual terroirs) throughout the zone. The stunning Cartizze hill is the most renowned of these single-vineyard sites. The most creamy, fruit-rich and elegant Prosecco wines are made from grapes on the higher slopes of the Cartizze Rive, representing the pinnacle of high-quality Italian sparkling wine.

The Veneto wine region boasts a fascinating collection of indigenous white grapes. To date, Garganega, Verdicchio and Cortese are rarely found outside of Italy. And yet, the grape variety is seldom referenced on the appellation label. In contrast, grape varieties have become the ready reference to wine in many other wine-producing countries. No single factor has made the industry more transparent and accessible. However, in Italy, more complex and arguably opaque traditions prevail. Winegrowers stake their reputations on the terroir (local growing conditions) rather than a particular variety.

This is the most important cultural trademark of the great wine appellations of Europe. It is probably the case that Verdicchio and Garganega could thrive outside of the Veneto region. But as it stands today, the vineyards of Soave and Gambellara remain their natural home. When you select a bottle of Soave, you’re not just paying for a particular grape variety. You’re purchasing a unique and inimitable interpretation of the Garganega grape, a magic combination of soil, situation and climate.

The Soave sub-region

Soave is probably the most important of the Veneto region’s white wine styles. The production zone is located east of Lake Garda, in an undulating landscape covered with terraced vine rows, ancient villas and pergolas.

Awarded DOC status in 1968, Soave’s history mirrors that of its closest red wine neighbour, Valpolicella. The number of vineyards in the appellation—and consequently the region’s geographical boundaries—expanded considerably in the second half of the 20th century. As a result, there was an inevitable drop in wine quality. However, over the past decade, Soave’s winegrowers have renewed their focus on making premium wine, introduced a hierarchical pyramid classification and restricted yields in key sub-zones.

There are now three designations entitled to market a Soave white wine: Soave, Soave Classico and Soave Superiore, in ascending order. If the wine is labelled ‘Soave Classico’, then the grapes were sourced from the original, historic Soave production zone located north of the village of Monteforte d’Alpone. The Soave Superiore DOCG designation is reserved for wines made from the finest vineyards, subject to restrictions regarding the maximum permitted yield. The south-facing aspect, low soil fertility and exceptional drainage of the top sites in Soave give growers a decisive advantage.

As elsewhere, growers are continually refining their viticultural methods and understanding of Soave’s complex terroir. Over the past decade, winemakers have reassessed their attitudes towards the difficult-to-cultivate but superior quality hillside vineyards and pergola-trained vines. They are undoubtedly more cumbersome and expensive to maintain when compared to vineyards planted on flat land, but the rewards are substantial. There are centenarian vines trained on pergolas that produce unbelievably concentrated wine. Famous producers like Pieropan and Anselmi increasingly market a range of single-vineyard wines, made from the best terroirs such as Vigneto La Rocca and Foscarino. The majority of winemakers prefer to avoid oak, but a few growers like Pra choose to age their wines in wood. Regardless, if you pair a bottle of exceptional Soave with freshly caught seafood, then your evening is complete.

The Garganega grape

The indigenous Garganega grape variety thrives in the volcanic soils and continental climate of the Veneto region. In a typical vintage, growers will encounter a benign pattern of relatively warm temperatures, supported by adequate—but not excessive—rainfall. The higher altitude sites in the wider region benefit from a significant day/night temperature variation, which helps to maintain acidity in the wines.

Under these conditions, the Garganega grape produces exceptional wine. It is appreciated for its powerful aromas, good acidity and rich texture. In its youth, a typical example offers flavours of stone fruit, apple, quince and almonds. Under the appellation rules, Garganega must constitute at least 70% of the final blend. Winegrowers then have the option of topping up the wine with a maximum of 30% Chardonnay and Verdicchio (known locally as Turbiana, or Trebbiano di Soave).

What emerges in your glass is an incomparable piece of white wine magic. Its perfume is often characterised by a beguiling combination of almonds and citrus, supported by ripe acidity and a soft, velvety texture.

Veneto white wine appellations

On the southern shores of Lake Garda is a closely guarded secret: Lugana. It is a small yet celebrated white wine appellation, responsible for saline and appetising dry whites produced from the Verdicchio grape. It responds well to the calcareous soils of the zone and cool evening temperatures, producing aromatic whites with racy acidity and freshness. Its citrus fruit profile makes Lugana the ideal accompaniment to the local gastronomy, with an understandable bias towards freshwater fish.

Additionally, there is an IGT Veneto designation for wines made outside of the appellation frameworks. Cultivating a wide range of white varieties, both imported and local, is permitted under the IGT rules. Some excellent Chardonnay has been appearing in recent times and North of Venice is a sea of vines planted to the eternally popular Pinot Grigio.

Bianco di Custoza and Gambellara are two styles that deserve more recognition. The former is located southwest of Lake Garda, while the vineyards of Gambellara are found east of Verona. Bianco di Custoza allows a variety of grapes to be cultivated, including Trebbiano, Cortese, Garganega and Friulano. A small number of growers also make sparkling and sweet wine in the appellation. Dry white Bianco di Custoza is a delicious wine, typically unoaked and light-bodied.

Similarly, the best wines of Gambellara are now considered fierce rivals to the top crus of Soave. Two winemakers, Angiolino Maule and Giovanni Menti, consistently make exquisite wines from Garganega grapes planted in the idyllic Chiampo valley, situated to the northeast of Soave. The Gambellara DOC appellation was created in 1970, though the style has remained in relative anonymity due to the small volumes exported. However, it is a magnificent and sorely underrated white wine. The best vineyard sites are planted at high altitudes on mineral-rich volcanic soils. A combination of excellent drainage, exposure and cooler nighttime temperatures ensure that Garganega achieves full ripeness without sacrificing acidity. Like Soave, the best vineyards have their own demarcated ‘Classico’ designation. Critics love them for their lemon sherbet aromas and bracing freshness. It’s just a shame that the Italians keep most for themselves!