A guide to Sicilian red wine

The term ‘Sicilian fine wine’ used to be an oxymoron. In the latter half of the 20th century, the Mediterranean’s biggest island was (largely) dedicated to producing gargantuan volumes of indifferent, if drinkable wine. Encouraged by generous EU subsidies, powerful co-operatives dominated Sicily’s wine scene. In fact, sommeliers used to joke that the best accompaniment to Sicilian wine was a sense of humour. The only notable exception was the age-worthy and delicious fortified wines of Marsala. But this is no longer the case. Quality, not quantity, has become the island’s signature export.

Region and climate

As with other viticultural transformations, the arrival of several headline investors sparked a revolution in attitudes and winegrowing culture in Sicily. Giuseppe Benanti’s success with growing indigenous varieties on the slopes of an active volcano helped to popularise top-quality Sicilian wine. As a consequence, Italy’s leading winemakers were encouraged to establish vineyards and invest much-needed resources.

The island’s talent pool keeps expanding. Although Sicily boasts several important regions, there is one corner that attracts the most attention and excitement. Who could resist the thrill of growing grapes in Europe’s most dangerous vineyard? Every Sicilian has heard of Mt. Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe. Situated in the north-eastern part of the island, it is over 3000 metres high. As recently as 2013, Etna erupted 20 times and the volcano has destroyed the nearby city of Catania on more than one occasion.

Winegrowers primarily cultivate vines on the northern, southern and eastern slopes of Etna, at varying altitudes. The lowest vineyards are planted at approximately 400 metres above sea level, the highest reaching over 1000 metres. Altitude is a vital part of local viticulture, used to moderate the summer heat and allow a slower, more even pace of ripening without sacrificing acidity.

Grapes

Some of the most cherished parcels of old vines are planted with two red grape varieties indigenous to Mt. Etna: Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. In the right hands, they are arguably responsible for Sicily’s finest red wines.

Nerello Mascalese is a beautiful grape variety. It typically ripens late, which suits the warm, dry climate of Mt. Etna. Critics often describe aromas of black fruit and herbs, with a defining freshness and verve which seems to come naturally to the grape. It blends extremely well with Nerello Cappuccio, another red variety that thrives in Sicilian terroir. It ripens earlier than Mascalese, giving wines of fragrant perfume and supreme elegance.

Richly coloured, Nerello Cappuccio has quite a seductive flavour profile: black cherry, thyme and wild strawberry leap from the glass. We love the grape for its soft structure and racy acidity. When it is mixed with Mascalese, the results are quite astonishing. It combines the ethereal perfume of Barolo with the structure of a good Chianti Classico.

In terms of appellations and labelling, Sicilian wine law offers much flexibility. Winegrowers may use the Etna Rosso DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation if they so wish. Under the DOC rules, Nerello Mascalese must constitute a minimum of 80% the blend, with Cappucio providing the supporting act. However, producers are also able to make use of the Terre Siciliane IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation. This allows Sicilian growers to produce 100% Mascalese or Cappuccio wines, if they desire.

There is also an equally flexible DOC Sicilia, available for both red and white wines. It is among the most liberal and progressive appellation frameworks in Italy. Although it strictly regulates the permitted yield, the DOC rules allow a diverse palate of red and white grapes (both indigenous and imported) to be blended or produced as a 100% varietal wine. Nerello Mascalese may share cellar space with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon can form a happy marriage with the native red grape Frappato. Experimentation is actively encouraged, and indeed applauded.

Appellations

Nonetheless, Sicily is always a game of two halves. There are regional sub-zones in the island that adhere to a much stricter regulatory framework. The appellations attached to these vineyards were designed to keep Sicily’s native grapes as the cornerstone of the island’s viticulture and traditions. This approach peaks in the DOC region of Eloro. Located in the extreme southeastern tip of the island, the local growing conditions see temperatures equivalent to a summer’s day in Tunisia.

But Nero d’Avola can tolerate heat with the best of them. The grape is largely responsible for establishing Sicily’s reputation as a leading source of powerful red wine. The best examples balance Nero d’Avola’s formidable tannic structure with a rich concentration of fruit and velvety texture. Black cherry, tobacco, damson and chilli pepper are all hallmark flavour characteristics of the grape. Increasingly popular, Nero d’ Avola has been planted all over the island.

Yet critics would probably single out two or three zones as the most reliable centres of superlative wine. These include vineyards planted in the white calcareous soils of Eloro and Noto in the southeast and Agrigento near the south-central coast. Approachable in their youth, these wines can be strikingly elegant and age-worthy, if made with care and attention in the winery. Excessive alcohol is also rarely a problem, if the property owns vineyards at higher altitudes.

Nero d’Avola also finds a welcome home in Sicily’s only DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine.

Awarded DOCG status in 2005, Cerasuolo di Vittoria merges the best elements of Nero d’Avola with another local wonder: Frappato. Closely related to Sangiovese, the Frappato grape brings freshness, vigour and lovely aromatics to the blends. Half-and-half blends are both legally permitted and increasingly trendy, while producers like Occhipinti are redefining the boundaries of local winemaking. Traditionally aged in wood barrels before release, Occhipinti has pioneered the ageing of wines in ceramic amphora. It imbues the finished product with a tangy, saline quality that is irresistible with roast lamb.

The glorious Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio grapes of Mt. Etna make a return appearance in the far northeastern tip of the island. Sicily is home to many regional DOC wines, but none are more exciting than Faro, meaning ‘lighthouse’. It is another appellation that stakes its reputation on blending indigenous red grape varieties. Sicilian’s love Nocera, an obscure regional gem that yields wines of powerful tannins, racy acidity and almost impenetrable layers of black fruit and leather. Under the DOC rules, Nocera is blended with Mascalese and Cappuccio, with oak-ageing often employed to add structure and spice.

The appellation was in the doldrums for a long time, until the architect Salvatore Geraci invested heavily in the zone. His top vineyards are situated on steep terraces overlooking the city of Messina. The wines are a poster-child for everything Sicilian terroir is capable of—reds with precision and an inimitable savoury quality. They warrant a second, third or even sixth glass.

Faro’s immediate coastal neighbour is Mamertino, home to the legendary Planeta family of winemakers. Their range is vast and extremely reliable; everything from Chardonnay to Etna blends and 100% Nocera wines. The Mamertino DOC is far more extensive than Faro, producing a range of both white and red wines. They are generally well-made and food-friendly wines, ideal for the dinner table. Similarly, the DOC Monreale is renowned for embracing a range of varieties, including Nero d’Avola. Located in the northwest of the island, the conditions cooler than the interior, with higher rainfall. Fresh and lively wines are the DOC’s trademark. Meanwhile, the local grape variety Perricone is both obscure and sorely underappreciated. Planted in the west of the island, its signature trademark is a potent bouquet of graphite, blackberry and plum.