The attractions of the Savoie region in south-eastern France are vast and variable. Sports enthusiasts have Savoie Mont Blanc, Chamonix, and Les Trois Vallées at their fingertips. Cultural vultures marvel at the exquisite architecture of Annecy in Haute Savoie, while gastronomes can explore the numerous Michelin-starred restaurants in the Savoie.

The wine lover is equally well catered for; Savoie’s vineyards are renowned for producing delicious, fine wine, albeit relatively underappreciated outside of the region. Nevertheless, the region is very self-sufficient: red, white, sparkling, rosé, and sweet wines are all available and often at attractive prices. Savoie’s winegrowers cultivate a diverse mix of indigenous varieties to craft styles you won’t find anywhere else.

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History and terroir

Savoie is an achingly beautiful wine region. Celtic, Gaulish, and Teutonic tribes were the first settlers to discover its charms, followed by the Romans, the Roman empire collapsed in the 5th Century. In 1860, this fiercely independent province agreed to become absorbed into the French state. As a result, Savoie has long boasted a very multi-cultural atmosphere.

The vineyards are found just south of Lake Geneva or known locally as Lac Léman. The geographical area is almost as large as the Bordeaux wine region, with spectacular mountain terrain interspersed with lakes and quaint villages. Yet the volume of wine produced is relatively low, due to the nature of the viticultural landscape leaving minimal land to be planted on.

Savoie enjoys a bracing continental climate, with snow-covered winters and mild summers. This is conducive to yielding aromatic and fresh white wine, with vibrant acidity and a moderate abv. Only certain red grapes will achieve full physiological ripeness in the vineyards that flank the French Alps.

Elevation, aspect, and soil can vary dramatically in the region – the most coveted sites enjoy a south-facing exposure and well-drained limestone terroir. The mountains protect the vineyards from weather systems and excessive rainfall from the north-west. In addition to calcareous soils, many vines are planted on scree (loose rock fragments) that help to reflect heat back into the vine canopy.

Key Savoie grape varieties

White

  • Jacquère – A real speciality of the Savoie region, the high yielding Jacquère grape creates beautifully fresh white wines that showcase grassy aromas and an appetising palate of cox’s apple and pear drop. However, it is prone to giving high yields.
  • Altesse – the late-ripening Altesse is nothing if not versatile, used to make dry white styles and sparkling wine. Unlike Jacquère, it responds well to oak maturation and is capable of making age-worthy and structured whites, renowned for their floral, nutty flavours, and vibrant acidity.
  • Roussanne – championed by growers in the Rhone Valley, Roussanne can produce very fragrant and elegant Savoie wine. Often blended with Marsanne, it offers an attractive palate of citrus, honeysuckle, and stone fruit.
  • Chasselas – an early-ripening and vigorous grape variety, Chasselas must be carefully managed, to achieve quality wine. The vast majority of Savoie Chasselas is fruit-driven and very floral, with honey, lime, and hazelnut on the mid-palate.
  • Gringet – almost exclusively grown in the mountains of Savoie, Gringet is a remarkable variety. It will yield beautifully fragrant and ethereal white wines, with notes of citrus, apple, and white flowers.

    • Red

    • Mondeuse – native to the Savoie wine region, Mondeuse is another variety that requires judicious pruning for optimal grape yields. This grape produces deeply coloured red wines, with ample acidity, structure, and good aromatics, offering complex notes of sour cherries, plum, graphite, and pepper.
    • Persan – difficult to grow, especially in cooler years, Persan can yield complex and structured red wines, if the conditions allow. Expect a deep colour, fine acidity and firm tannins. With bottle age, flavours of violets, tobacco, and spice will emerge.
    • Gamay – Beaujolais’ key export can also make bright and fresh red wine in the Savoie region, if the terroir is suitable. Good quality Gamay is back in vogue, appreciated for its moderate abv and fruit-forward bouquet.

Leading Savoie appellations

Vin de Savoie

This is arguably one of France’s most complex appellation frameworks. Introduced in 1973, the designation covers white, red, rosé, and sparkling wine styles, made across the Savoie wine region. Unlike certain appellations, AOC Vin de Savoie is not produced from one delimited zone. However, the vast majority of Vin de Savoie is white, based on the ubiquitous Jacquère grape variety. The rare Mondeuse Blanche, grown exclusively in the Savoie wine region, is also used in this appellation and currently, there are only 5 hectares under vine. Meanwhile, red Vin de Savoie is often composed of Mondeuse. Modern examples are bright and refreshing, with moderate abv and a distinct peppery characteristic. Persan, a variety that has only recently been saved from near-extinction offers a firm structure and dark fruit profile that shine at the dinner table, particularly when matched alongside game.

But this isn’t the end of the story. There are 16 sub-regions located throughout the greater Savoie region, including Arbin, Chautagne, Jongieux, Marignan, Marin, and Ripaille. Each of these wine districts is permitted to append their village/commune name to that of Vin de Savoie on the label, if certain conditions are met. Rather confusingly, each commune has an individual set of rules regarding permitted grape varieties; rules concerning yield are also far stricter than those imposed by the generic Vin de Savoie framework.

Roussette de Savoie

Roussette de Savoie was unveiled in 1973, a specific designation for wines made from the Altesse grape. Today 53 communes are entitled to market their white styles under the appellation banner. The rules specify that every bottle must contain 100% Altesse, a grape that offers much enjoyment if you seek full-bodied and generous white wines.

There are also four sub-appellations exclusively dedicated to growing Altesse, by the Crus of Monterminod, Marestel, and Monthoux. These superior sites boast well-drained soils, a south-facing aspect and often steep slopes. They benefit from prolonged sunlight exposure – essential in this cool climate.

Seyssel

Historically, the vineyards of Seyssel were predominantly associated with sparkling wines, produced from the obscure Molette grape. However, a growing number of producers now focus on making dry whites from Altesse, in addition to Chasselas. Seyssel has the distinction of being Savoie’s only single-village appellation, located south of Geneva. The terroir encompasses clay-limestone and sandy soils, interspersed with rock fragments and sandstone. Well-drained soils are a very important part of the quality mix in a Savoie vineyard, due to the abundance of rainfall. The quality level is very high throughout the appellation; Seyssel has become one of the most reliable purchases in Savoie.

Crémant de Savoie

A relatively new addition to France’s sparkling wine portfolio, Crémant de Savoie was unveiled in 2015. The appellation rules stipulate that every bottle must contain a minimum of 60% Jacquère and/or Altesse. The style is fresh and fruity, rather than powerfully structured. Crémant de Savoie should be enjoyed young.

Enjoying Savoie wines

If your dinner guests are beginning to tire of the same wine choices, a bottle of Savoie wine has certain bragging rights. The region’s multi-faceted wine styles are no longer the preserve of visiting tourists. Savoie increasingly appeals to wine lovers seeking to explore the road less travelled.

However, this is not the region’s only USP. There is a style to suit every occasion and budget: weekend drinking; gourmet dinners; Christmas dinner and BBQs. Your pairing options range from Persan with chargrilled lamb to a Crémant de Savoie aperitif. Rousette de Savoie pairs remarkably well with lake fish or crayfish. If you’re excited by the unknown, then you must discover Savoie for yourself.

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