A guide to the Northern Rhône wine region

There are few wine regions more beautiful and diverse than the Rhône Valley. Situated in the Rhône-Alpes département in south-eastern France, it produces some of the finest Syrah wines. Vineyards carpet both sides of the Rhône river , a 250 mile-long stretch of water that flows from the Swiss border into the Mediterranean. The Côte du Rhône is divided into two wine regions: the smaller Northern part and the larger Southern Rhône district. Red wines made from the Northern Rhône are almost exclusively based on the Syrah grape, while superlative whites are either based on Viognier or blends of the Marsanne/Roussanne grape varieties.

Growers from across the world are crafting delicious wines from these iconic varieties, yet, they cannot quite reach the heights of the Northern Rhône, such as the magnificent Syrah of La Chapelle in Tain-l’Hermitage, or the unbelievably complex Viognier made in Condrieu.

History, geography and terroir

The steep, narrow terraces of the Northern Rhône are a spectacular sight to behold. The Romans were the first major civilisation to take advantage of the favourable conditions in this part of France. The area under vine runs from just south of the city of Vienne to the town of Valence. There is then a gap of 25 miles, before you reach southern Rhône region. Today, the Northern Rhône wine region is filled with small domaines and family-run enterprises.

Cultivating vines in this part of the world is no easy feat. Many of the terraced vineyards are planted on extremely steep and narrow slopes that make the pruning and maintenance of vines painstakingly slow work. In addition, the narrowness of the Northern Rhône Valley has limited expansion within many of the appellations. There are approximately 2900 hectares under vine in the region, responsible for less than 5% of the Rhône’s total production.

Growers farm vineyards in a continental climate, with typically cold winters and warm summers. Average rainfall is 920mm per year, with growing season temperatures reaching high 20s. Of course, there are inevitable variances in soil structure, altitude, aspect and micro-climate. The finest soils are covered with a layer of heat-absorbing granite, although there are outcrops of slate, schist, iron-rich clay and limestone in certain vineyard sites.

There are eight key appellations in the Northern Rhône wine region, producing red wine, white wine and sparkling wines. Attitudes and approaches to both viticulture and wine production vary dramatically, not least regarding the subject of maturation in new French oak barrels.

Appellations of Northern Rhône wine region

Côte-Rôtie

Translated as “roasted slope” in French, Côte-Rôtie is a smaller appellation in the Côte du Rhône, with just over 300 hectares under vine. Many regard the Syrah produced here as the finest in the world; perfumed, structured and supremely elegant. The southeast-facing slopes of the appellation are often exposed to the sun all day. Under local rules, growers have long been allowed to add up to 20% of Viognier to their red wine, adding perfume and texture. Opinions on the relative merits of using Viognier vary wildly, but even a high-profile wine producer may use at least between 5-10% in their cuvées.

The terroir of the zone has traditionally been divided into the Côte Blonde, situated just south of Ampuis, and the Côte Brune, which is found on a southwest-facing bank to the north. The Côte Blonde is defined by schist and a soft topsoil, with varying amounts of sand. The Rhône wines produced here tend to have softer tannins and a potent bouquet of violets and damson, in contrast to the powerfully structured wines of Côte Brune, where schist and heavy clay dominates. A growing number of producers are releasing single-vineyard expressions from select sites in these two sub-zones.

Condrieu

Only one white grape variety is permitted under the Condrieu appellation rules: Viognier. The softly textured and perfumed Viognier thrives in the vineyards of Condrieu, situated just south of Côte-Rôtie. There are just over 200 hectares under vine, planted on a mixture of granite and sandy soils. However, it is not easy to cultivate, being prone to several grapevine diseases and cropping at low yields. In order to harvest a decent crop, Viognier must be planted on sites protected from the cold winds from the north along the Rhône River valley. Paradoxically, the winds can offer several benefits to winegrowers, including its ability to remove humidity from the vine canopy that can lead to fungal infections. Yet in late spring, the chill can interfere with the flowering, preventing grapes from emerging.

As in Côte-Rôtie, single-vineyard expressions in Condrieu are highly priced. The best sites tend to be cultivated on a mica-rich topsoil called arzelle. The French wine combines a signature scent of apricots and white flowers with a silky texture and real depth of flavour. Critics have long advocated enjoying Condrieu in its youth, to make the most of the potency and freshness.

Chateau Grillet

Chateau Grillet is a real anomaly. It is an appellation with just one producer, a 3.5 hectare estate that is located within the Condrieu territory. It was awarded its own designation in 1936, in recognition of the unique terroir (steep granite cliffs) and superlative quality of the wines being made. Owned by the same firm that controls Chateau Latour in Pauillac, it is a contender for the finest white wine produced in the Rhône Valley wine region. Chateau Grillet is the epitome of elegance, with exotic aromas of apricot, truffle and honeysuckle always in evidence. It will benefit from bottle-age.

Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage

Hermitage AOC is a small appellation (140 hectares) with a mighty reputation; it was served in the French courts of King Louis XIII and his successor Louis XIV. Uniquely in the northern Rhône wine region, the vineyard sies on the left bank are protected from the north winds. The altitude reaches 350 metres, with vines cultivated on steep terraces that are covered in a topsoil composed of granite, decomposed flint and limestone. Terroir delineation is very much at the heart of the appellation’s wine culture.

All red Hermitage is based on Syrah, with the possible addition of up to 15% Marsanne/Roussanne. It is said that the climats of Beaume and La Chapelle produce the most elegant Hermitage, defined by their exquisite perfume and fine tannins. In contrast, the granite-heavy site of Bessards competes with Le Meal for the title of most powerfully structured and dense Syrah wine. However, many growers continue to blend different terroirs into a signature cuvée. All good Hermitage is defined by aromas of damson, leather, coffee and red berries. Top vintages will improve in bottle for decades.

The same could be said of white Hermitage. Drinking these blends of Marsanne and Roussanne is a real privilege, as relatively little is exported. Approximately a quarter of the total acreage is planted to white varieties, which thrive on the metamorphic soils of the appellation. Pungent and very expressive (even in youth), white Hermitage is a glorious concoction of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and apricots. The racy acidity and freshness only adds to their appeal.

Crozes-Hermitage is a very different proposition to its more famous sibling. For a start, the appellation is considerably larger, with over 1760 hectares under vine. Crozes-Hermitage’s vineyards are situated on the eastern bank of the river, both to the north and south of Tain-l’Hermitage, a pretty town. But like Hermitage, growers are dedicated to growing Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne, crafting good value red and white wines. The best examples are very fruit-forward. They seldom have the longevity of Côte-Rôtie’s finest, or indeed red/white Hermitage. >

Saint-Joseph

Long associated with exceptional value, St-Joseph is the northern Rhône wine region’s Glun, Mauves, Lemps, Tournon and Vion. Syrah planted on these granite slopes yields delicious wine, with pure red fruit flavours and a distinct smoky character. The white wines are no less appealing.

Cornas

Cornas is perhaps the most ‘discreet’ of the northern Rhône’s key appellations. Lacking the renown of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, local growers are nonetheless committed to making excellent wines from the Syrah grape. The vineyards are located on the west bank of the river, just north of the commune of Tournon. The most lauded climats are vineyards planted on an east-facing ‘amphitheatre’ of rocky shelves, ensuring maximum sun exposure and higher levels of ripeness. Good Cornas is robust, powerful and seldom expensive.

Saint-Peray

Historically, this recherché part of the valley was dedicated to crafting beautiful sparkling wines from that quintessential northern Rhône blend of Marsanne/Roussanne. But in recent years, growers have been trying their hand at still wines, mindful of the expanding market for saline and aromatic dry whites. Both styles offer exceptional value.