An insider's guide to white wines from Provence

Provence has built a global reputation on the quality of its signature export. Fresh, aromatic and gently made, rosé wine is the height of fashion. Its unprecedented success has transformed Provence's once ailing wine industry, attracting investment and expertise from across the world. A growing number of domaines are producing excellent red and white wines, adding to the diversity of the region. Consumers are often surprised to learn that Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the South of France, while Vermentino has found a niche in the hills northeast of Toulon. Make no mistake: Provence's viticultural landscape is multi-faceted. It can offer delicious white wines for any occasion.

Provence’s white wine revolution

Provence has been cultivating white grape varieties for many years. Unfortunately, the quality of wines produced in the 20th century was generally very lacklustre. A notable exception is Chateau Simone. The Rougier family have been producing exceptional wine of all three colours for two centuries, growing vines just outside of Aix-en-Provence. Nevertheless, rustic and often oxidative styles were the Provence trademark, lacking fruit and freshness. This was due to poor winemaking and outmoded ideas. However, a new generation has revitalised Provence's white wine scene. Taking their inspiration from the New World, winegrowers shifted the focus to ultra-protective winemaking, safeguarding the juice from oxidation. Their goal was to deliver aromatic and intensely fruity white wines at affordable prices. Generally, the modern method involves chilling the grape juice before fermentation to preserve freshness. It is then fermented in stainless steel tanks, at precisely controlled temperatures. Cooler fermentation is very effective at producing fruit-driven wines; higher temperatures can 'burn out' the violate aroma and flavour compounds that make aromatic styles so refreshing. Winemakers have also become more adept at exploiting the incredible diversity of Provence's landscape, matching specific grape varieties to different sub-zones across the region. The warm and dry Mediterranean climate is ideally suited to ripening grapes, while the cool limestone soils of Provence's interior help to preserve acidity in the white grapes. Winemakers tend to blend two or more varieties, although mono-varietal labels are also exported. The wines are marketed under a variety of different appellations, in addition to the Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP) designation. Although the overall volumes exported are small, the quality is soaring.

Key white grape varieties

• Vermentino - known locally as Rolle, Vermentino is one of Provence's most popular white grape varieties. It produces very aromatic and racy wines, with notes of citrus, garrigue and stone fruit on the palate. It is arguably Provence's answer to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Single-varietal labels are becoming more common, although many growers are still devoted to the art of blending.

• Grenache Blanc - found throughout southern France, Grenache Blanc is typically blended with at least two other varieties. Light-golden in colour, the grape is characterised by green-apple and stone fruit aromas, with soft acidity. It adds body and texture to the white blends of Provence.

• Ugni Blanc - once derided for its tendency to produce dilute and thin wine, Ugni Blanc is slowly making a name for itself in Provence. Better site selection is helping to get the most out of this grape variety, which is also known as Trebbiano.

• Bourboulenc – this variety has been growing in Provence for centuries. Late-ripening and robust, this esoteric grape variety maintains good acidity, even in hot climates. Its full-bodied palate of citrus and apricot is a welcome feature in the white blends of Provence and Chateauneuf du Pape.

• Clairette – this grape requires superior terroir and a deft touch in the winery. But if all falls into place, the wine is fresh and aromatic, with apple, citrus and stone fruit flavours on the palate.

• Marsanne - the signature white grape of the Northern Rhone Valley also thrives in certain parts of the Provence wine region. Celebrated for its broad mouthfeel and structure, Marsanne is traditionally blended with Rousanne, the latter bringing perfume and freshness to the final cuvée.

• Roussanne - the late-ripening Roussanne is one of the most important white grape varieties in southern France. When blended with Marsannne it can be a class act, with good texture, weight and aromas of honeysuckle and melon.

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Key white wine appellations

Côtes de Provence

In terms of volume and renown, this is the most important appellation in Provence. It encompasses a swathe of vineyards in the eastern half of the region, situated in the Var administrative department. There are approximately 20,000 hectares under vine, largely dominated by red varieties. However, there is a buoyant niche market for Côtes de Provence whites. They're stupendous value: fruit-driven, saline and perfect with the delicious local seafood. Blending is exceedingly popular, with many wines based on varying proportions of Vermentino, Grenache Blanc and often Marsanne/Roussanne.

Cassis

At first glance, Cassis is simply a small and unassuming village, situated to the east of Marseille. But in reality, it is a centre of wine excellence. Although the appellation allows red, white and rosé styles to be made, the area is most celebrated for its fennel-scented white wines, produced in small quantities. The terroir is first-rate. Vines are sheltered by the Montagne de la Canaille, protecting vineyards from the worst excess of the infamous Mistral winds. Calcareous soils are permeable, ensuring that the vines don't become waterlogged. In addition, the southeast-facing slopes that flank the Mediterranean receive plenty of essential sunlight and warmth. As a result, growers will usually be able to harvest a ripe and healthy crop in most vintages. The local style trades heavily on the Clairette and Marsanne grape varieties, occasionally complemented by a dash of Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and perhaps even Sauvignon Blanc. The best examples are exquisite: full-bodied and racy white wines, with notes of garrigue, apricot and pineapple on the palate.

Bellet

Like Cassis, Bellet lacks widespread recognition, even among oenophiles. Fortunately, the appellation's lack of global renown has not affected producer quality. Some of Provence's finest white wines are made in Bellet: rich, luscious and deeply aromatic. The vineyards are planted in hills surrounding the glamorous city of Nice, with just under 55 hectares under vine. Harvesting the grapes is a painstaking process, as vines are cultivated on terraced sites with steep gradients in certain cases. Vermentino is the key grape variety here, often blended with a small percentage of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and/or Clairette. Although site names are not officially recognised by the appellation authorities, growers are predisposed to reference single-vineyard names on the labels. Some of the most respected include Le Pilon, Le Grand Bois, Golfan, Les Cappans, Saint-Roman de Bellet and La Tour.

Côteaux Varois en Provence

Another of France's unsung heroes. A small volume of superlative (though seldom exported) quality white wine is made in the appellation. Vineyards are planted on a limestone enclave north of Toulon, in a significantly cooler micro-climate than the Provence benchmark. A combination of altitude and the influence of the Massifs de la Saint-Baume ensures that certain vineyards may not be picked until late autumn. These are ideal conditions for producing saline white wines with ample acidity. Vermentino plays a key role in Côteaux Varois, supported by Semillon, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Grenache Blanc.

Enjoying Provence white wines

Like Provence's gastronomy, local white wines are diverse, adaptable and usually delicious. A varied palate of grape varieties translates into a wide variety of styles, from single-vineyard Vermentino to blends of Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc. There is no paucity of premium labels in southern France, albeit the vast majority are competitively priced. For the moment, Provence's white wines lack the international cachet of rosé. However, in quality terms, there is little to choose between them. Typically fresh, saline and aromatic, Provence white wines are often served before the meal begins. But they can play a multitude of roles; a good bottle of Cassis is the ideal partner to oysters and fresh fish, while Grenache Blanc-dominant blends from Côtes de Provence are fantastic with pungent garlic cheeses.