Piedmont red grapes: Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto
Turin is one of Italy’s most beautiful cities, but the local Piedmontese red wine is even better. Situated in Northwest Italy, Piedmont has the country’s greatest diversity of indigenous grape varieties and unique terroirs. Piedmont does not generally rely on viticultural imports from Bordeaux and Burgundy. If you want authenticity, then this should be your first port of call.
Piedmont has established a formidable reputation for its original flavours. Over the last 15 years, influential critics have questioned the rising prominence of international varieties like Merlot in Italian viticulture. There is certainly room for debate about whether the nation should stick to its roots. But Piedmont’s success in promoting its indigenous grapes to a global audience is reassuring. The region is a sea of artisan producers and small family-owned vineyards, many of whom bring an intellectual and emotional commitment to their wines.
Three of the region’s most important and unique red grapes are Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. Let’s learn a bit more about them.
Nebbiolo
For many collectors, Piedmontese red wine begins and ends with the indigenous Nebbiolo grape. This late-ripening variety, renowned for its exquisite perfume and tannic structure, is solely responsible for the prestigious red wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. There are aficionados who refuse to drink anything else. But while it is certainly true that Barolo and its neighbour produce some of the best Nebbiolo wine, they do not hold a watertight monopoly. Growers working in other regions have consistently proven that Nebbiolo does not have to be cultivated in Barolo and Barbaresco to make delicious and fragrant red wine.
This is exemplified by the surfeit of excellent wines being made in the appellation of Nebbiolo d’Alba, located in the province of Cuneo. The zone was awarded DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status in 1970. Nebbiolo vines flank the city of Alba in all directions, although the vast majority of vineyards are located on the light, sandy soils of the River Tanaro’s left bank. Under the Nebbiolo d’Alba appellation rules, the wines must be based on 100% Nebbiolo and aged for a minimum period of 12 months in barrel.
The most succinct way to sum up the Nebbiolo grape would be: “Italy’s answer to Pinot Noir.” Temperamental and very sensitive to terroir (local growing conditions), every nuance of aspect and soil will affect how Nebbiolo ripens. The best sites produce wines that are full of tannin and acids. In its youth, Nebbiolo can be foreboding and powerfully structured.
However, the sandy soils and warm climate of the Nebbiolo d’Alba zone tend to produce more softly structured wines that can be enjoyed at a relatively young age. Fragrant and light-to-medium-bodied, Nebbiolo d’Alba is aged for a shorter period in wood than Barolo, consequently absorbing less of the oaky tannin and structure. Although the wines of the appellation are typically less powerful and concentrated than Barolo, it would be disingenuous to describe them as inferior. The region offers a different interpretation of the Nebbiolo grape: lighter, softer and less embryonic in their youth. Moreover, even the top wines are rarely expensive.
Barbera
Does Nebbiolo have a rival in the hills of Northwest Italy? Some would argue that the grape has no equal in the field of world-class Piedmontese red wine. Others would point to Barbera as Piedmont’s second most cherished grape variety. It is cultivated in several key appellations across Piedmont. One of most important of these is Barbera d’Asti. Its vineyards surround the beautiful town of Asti in all directions. They tend to produce softer wines than the sub-region of Barbera d’Alba, which is found south of the city of the same name.
The best vineyard sites in both areas have a south-easterly aspect, as Barbera needs warm sites to ensure that its naturally high acidity is palatable. Some of the finest vineyards are located in the sub-zone of Nizza, which was granted its own DOCG in 2014. Wines made under the Nizza designation must be aged for a minimum period of 18 months before release. They have a depth and structure that the more generic styles lack.
Nevertheless, cultivating Barbera in any terroir is no walk in the park. Without a rigorous pruning regime in the vineyard, Barbera vines can produce massive yields, promiscuously growing inflated bunches and oversized berries. It ripens earlier than Nebbiolo, so benefits from being planted on warm sites with a south-easterly facing aspect. However, if the grape is cultivated with due care then it can reveal a multitude of charms.
Well-made Barbera is antithesis of Barolo and Barbaresco, lacking the tannic grip of its fiercest rivals. Approachable at a young age, good Barbera should be soft and juicy, bursting with red cherry and strawberry fruit. Certain producers are now ageing Barbera grapes in French barrique, imbuing their wines with a deep purple colour and fatter, more opulent structure. They are gloriously hedonistic and very attractively priced.
Dolcetto
Dolcetto is another of Piedmont’s unique offerings to the world of red wine. The variety is heavily planted in the Monferrato hills, located north of the city of Alba. There is an ample supply of the grape, and Dolcetto is produced in over seven appellations in Piedmont. The most respected of these is Dolcetto d’Alba, awarded DOC status in 1974. Planted on calcareous and sandy soils, Dolcetto is produces elegant and fruit-driven red wine. The best terroirs are widely agreed to be the vineyards which immediately flank the city itself and the sub-zones of Diano d’Alba, Ovada and Dogliani.
Although it lacks the international cachet of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto is becoming more popular around the world. Offering an attractive combination of ripe fruit, good acidity and relatively low tannin, Dolcetto is custom-made for impatient oenophiles. Indeed, there is no need to cellar a bottle of Piedmontese Dolcetto. The grape is much-loved for its supple texture, approachability and opulent, fruit-driven palate. It is also a gift to winegrowers, as it will ripen in a variety of different terroirs, yielding wines of moderate tannin and low acidity. Meaning “sweet little one” in Italian, Dolcetto’s flavour profile is very attractive; damson, almond and black cherry burst from the glass.
Of course, approaches to winemaking vary in Dolcetto d’Alba, as elsewhere. One school of thought emphasises crafting a very light and fresh version for early drinking. Other winemakers prefer to age the grape for a short period in oak, to add structure and grip. Such Dolcettos are often labelled ‘Superiore’ and must be aged for a minimum of 14 months before release. This style can age comfortably for four to five years. Yet even oaked versions are usually ready to drink from the outset.
Such qualities give Dolcetto producers a decisive advantage in the marketplace, particularly in the five-second culture of today. Yet local winegrowers are obsessed with their local varieties and curiosities, even if the style has no commercial clout outside of Piedmont. Grignolino is a case in point. It is possibly the most obscure red grape in Italy. Indifferent vineyards produce astringent, nondescript wine. But at its best, Grignolino is a piquant and refreshing red for immediate consumption. It has a small fanbase in Italy, but little renown abroad.