A guide to Australian wine: New South Wales
New South Wales (NSW), in South-Eastern Australia, is the birthplace of Australian wine: the state’s first governor planted vines at Farm Cove on Sydney Harbour in 1788. More European cuttings were planted in the 1800s, however, they were devastated by the Phylloxera louse in the late 1800s. After a slow recovery, wine from New South Wales had finally gained popularity in the UK by the 1980s – as staple table wine. The state was at the forefront of this explosive movement, producing New World interpretations of French grapes such as Chardonnay and Syrah.
However, the state has long since been overtaken by South Australia as the nation’s leading wine region. Nonetheless, New South Wales remains a dynamic source of excellent ‘minimum intervention’ wine. Growers in the region are embracing a less is more approach in terms of reducing the use of synthetic chemicals in the vineyard and streamlining intervention in the cellar. As a result, the wines have never been better.
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Geography and climate
Travelling from region to region in New South Wales is not for the faint-hearted. With a landmass of approximately 810,000 square kilometres, NSW encompasses some of the nation’s most varied and wondrous topography. Growers, therefore, have a multitude of mesoclimates and soil types to choose from, ranging from the cool humidity of Hastings River (north of Sydney) to the dry climate of Mudgee.
There are dramatic variances between the growing conditions of coastal Australia and the in-land vineyard sites. Vineyards close to the Pacific enjoy (relatively) mild summer temperatures and ample rainfall. The contrast between the cool and humid Hastings River and the baking Western Plains could not be more significant.
New South Wales is far from an easy place to cultivate vines. The wine region suffers from fierce heat in the summer. However, winegrowers can rely on The Great Dividing Range (mountain ranges that traverse Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria) to provide altitude for diurnal temperature variation and relief from the heat. Vineyards planted on the lower slopes can reach an altitude of 500 meters, creating a more favourable microclimate for vine cultivation. It is thanks to these cooler conditions and sustainable ingenuity that NSW can support a premium wine industry.
Key wine regions
Hunter Valley
The Hunter Valley Split is a beacon of premium wine production and wine tourism in NSW. The wine region is split into Lower Hunter and Upper Hunter. Lower Hunter is scattered with family-owned vineyards. A visit to a Lower Hunter vineyard, winery or cellar door is a mere two hours drive from Sydney. There are a wide variety of soil types in the Lower Hunter, including the celebrated volcanic basalt, which is rich in minerals. This volcanic terroir is particularly suitable for producing elegant Shiraz, quite different from Barossa Shiraz. Top Hunter Shiraz is perfumed and supple, with notes of bell pepper, leather and plum; here, winemakers chase freshness over power.
Sémillon, one of the key white grapes of Bordeaux, produces complex and long-lived wine in the Hunter Valley. Albeit a little abrupt in their youth, bottle age will bring forth rich flavours, including buttered toast, lanolin and honeysuckle.
Producers in the wine region are often challenged by excessive rainfall, which increases the risk of berry dilution. Meanwhile, dry farming is impossible in the arid expanse of the Upper Hunter Valley. The Upper region was propelled to fame in the 1970s after Chardonnay was planted there. Investors followed, and the subregion became synonymous with the grape. The local style is ripe and fruit-forward; however, variances in altitude, soil and winemaking tradition keep the sub-region’s wines exciting.
South Coast
The South Coast region of NSW is a hotbed of innovation and investment, with new labels and winery establishments continuously appearing. The region covers over 300 miles of land, stretching from Newcastle to the state’s southern end. It is further subdivided into two distinct areas: Shoalhaven Coast and the Southern Highlands.
Southern Highlands‘ vineyards are planted at high altitudes, which helps to moderate the summer heat to preserve acidity in the grapes. Chardonnay is very successful here, in addition to silky Pinot Noir and aromatic Sauvignon Blanc.
In contrast, the Shoalhaven Coast subregion is quite humid yet cool due to its proximity to the Pacific. Fungal diseases can be a problem at harvest time. Portugal’s Verdelho does very well here, in addition to the hybrid variety Chambourcin.
Big Rivers
The vineyards of Murray Darling and Riverina are responsible for over 40% of Australia’s total wine volume. The latter is situated entirely in New South Wales, while Murray Darling extends into neighbouring South Australia and Victoria from the western and southern reaches of the state. Traditionally associated with good value and fruity characteristics, there are also some exceptional dessert wines being made from Sémillon. Mediterranean varieties, such as Grenache and Mourvedre, also thrive in the intense heat of inland Australia.
Southern New South Wales
Encompassing over 90 miles of land that stretches north and south of Canberra, it is easy to access a winery from the nation’s capital city. Today Canberra’s high-altitude vineyards are responsible for some of Australia’s finest Pinot Noir and Riesling. The raciness and freshness of wines made in the Canberra district is genuinely irresistible. Some excellent Gruner Veltliner is made here as well.
Its fierce rival is Tumbarumba, located to the southwest of Canberra. The subregion has become a hot ticket with growers who wish to try their hand at Burgundian varieties; Tumbarumba offers a cool climate for winegrowing, aided by the high elevation. The quality of sparkling wine from this region has soared in recent years.
Central Ranges
There are natural treasures to be discovered in the vineyards west of Sydney, including the subregions of Orange and Cowra. Once again, the recurring theme is elevation: Orange’s vineyards are planted on the slopes of an extinct volcano. Aromatic varieties, such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, yield beautiful fresh wines in the hills of Orange. Producers in Cowra regard Chardonnay as their greatest triumph. Hilltops, a small zone south of Cowra, is a reliable source of excellent Pinot Grigio. To the west of Hunter Valley is Mudgee; its local strengths include cassis-infused Cabernet Sauvignon and perfumed Chardonnay.
Other sub-regions
- Hastings River – the vineyards near Port Macquarie are challenging to farm due to the high humidity. Thus, robust red grape varieties like Chambourcin deliver the most consistent results.
- Western Plains – a relatively small volume of wine is made in this north-western corner of NSW. Grenache is the most promising grape in the zone, producing concentrated wines with plenty of flavour.
Key grape varieties
- Chardonnay – upper Hunter Valley Chardonnay is one of Australia’s leading wine styles. With some exceptions, the grape produces richly textured and voluptuous white wine. Cool climate Orange represents the other side of the coin with fresh and aromatic styles.
- Sémillon – There is nothing quite like the intensity of Hunter Valley Sémillon. It has developed a powerful synergy with its alluvial soils and loam terroir.
- Shiraz – Hunter Shiraz is both ripe and restrained, with an earthy, aromatic complexity. Quite different in style to Barossa Valley interpretations.
- Cabernet Sauvignon – this variety can vary enormously in NSW, from the powerful and chocolate-scented wines of the Lower Hunter to the blackcurrant elegance of Orange.
- Pinot Noir – much of New South Wales is too hot to produce imitations of Burgundy’s red wine. A notable exception is Tumbarumba Pinot Noir, famous for its fresh acidity and aromas of crushed red berries.
- Sangiovese – the late-ripening Italian-native Sangiovese can perform very well in certain parts of the state, including southern New South Wales. Its signature aromas are sour cherry and plum.
Enjoying New South Wales wine
Both domestic and international stakeholders continue to invest in New South Wales, improving its winemaking and viticulture. Your choices are no longer limited to a handful of French grapes; the net result is that an unprecedented amount of affordable and high-quality wine is being exported to the UK. Hunter Shiraz, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon remain safe purchases for wine lovers, but Pinot Noir, Verdelho and Sangiovese have found ideal homes too. If you seek diversity and value for money, New South Wales wine may astound you.
Related pages
An insider’s guide to wine from Western Australia