Tuscany wine regions: the Maremma
Italian wine culture is simultaneously enthralling and often confusing. There are over 350 DOC wines and more than 120 IGT designations which appear on labels. There is also an excess of 100 grape varieties planted on Italian soils. It’s enough to cause a migraine.
Thankfully, the Maremma region is relatively easy to comprehend. Wine lovers will have a field day in this corner of southern Tuscany, which runs parallel to the Tyrrhenian coastline. The region’s vineyards start south of the port of Livorno, continuing down to Grosseto. There are approximately 715 hectares under vine, but unlike Chianti, the Maremma has not been in the fine wine business for centuries.
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Regional history and change
Prior to the mid-20th century the Maremma was covered in thick swamp land, with some modest agricultural and mining operations. The region eventually caught the eye of investors like Elisabetta Geppetti, who planted the now lauded Saffredi vineyard in 1985. According to Geppetti, she was initially derided for investing in a region that was considered sub-par. After a humble beginning, its diverse topography began attracting legendary icons of Tuscan winemaking, including the Frescobaldi and Antinori families.
Newcomers are lured in by the promise of great terroir and a very progressive appellation system. The Maremma DOC (appellation) was created as recently as 2011. It operates alongside a IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation, founded in 1992. Both frameworks award significant freedom of choice to the area’s winegrowers. For example, winemakers can emphasise the individual grape variety on their labels, unlike their colleagues in Chianti Classico. This greatly simplifies the buying process for the end consumer. Additionally, the authorities introduced a system in 2020 whereby the bottle label can display two grape varieties.
Wine production
As a relatively young region, the Maremma benefits from liberal guidelines designed to protect quality and allow experimentation from winery owners. Over the past decade, growers have planted a large volume of classic Bordeaux varieties, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Iconic winemakers such as Giacomo Tachis have proven that these varieties thrive in the Maremma’s sandstone terroir. The cooling influence of the Tyrrhenian sea enables the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon to reach maturity slowly and evenly. This imbues the wine with soft, approachable tannins and a concentrated fruit profile. Only in the hottest vintages can Bordeaux hope to replicate this magic.
It is often said that Cabernet Sauvignon is a very willing traveller. It will grow in a variety of climates and soil types, ripening to glorious concentration in the US, Australia and Chile. Yet the best examples made in Southern Tuscany are a cut above. With careful winemaking and judicious barrel ageing, powerful aromas of cedar wood, blackcurrant, blueberry, cigar box and chocolate should emerge from the glass. A top Maremma-grown Cabernet Sauvignon will always be full-bodied, velvety and immensely satisfying to drink.
But there is no monopoly on fine wine in this part of Tuscany. Merlot is another very able traveller, adapting to warmer climates with ease. In the best vintages, it reaches an apogee in the Maremma, ripening to voluptuous essences. The grape’s tannic structure will be very soft and approachable, backed up with an opulent texture. Expect flavours of plum, damson, strawberry and Christmas cake.
The Maremma has shown itself perfect Cabernet Sauvignon territory. A close cousin, Cabernet Franc, also responds well to the region’s unique terroir. Much more resistant to cold winters than Merlot, it makes rich and powerful wines in hotter climates. A typically silky texture complements the red fruit profile, with leafy aromatics balancing out the (relatively) high alcohol.
Petit Verdot is currently in vogue in certain parts of Bordeaux. Pungently aromatic, the grape is increasingly appreciated by wine lovers. It is loved for its deep colour, fine tannins and rich flavour—liquorice and spice usually dominate. However, Petit Verdot needs to be very ripe to succeed, and it ripens very late. This is far less of a problem in the Maremma than it is in Bordeaux. In top vintages, Petit Verdot produces astonishingly good wine in Tuscany. It works very well as a single-varietal wine, but most winemakers use it to add fire and spice to their Bordeaux blends.
Appellation framework
Of course, raw materials are only half the battle. The superlative Tuscan quality and nuance comes from a combination of high-quality grapes, terroir and sophisticated winemaking. All of this is possible under the Maremma Toscana DOC. Maremma wine seldom disappoints; there is a surfeit of talented winemakers investing into the region. Moreover, working under the Maremma Toscana DOC provides considerable freedom. The appellation covers a wide range of wine styles, including sweet wines, blends, and single-varietal white and red wines. Many properties display the key grape variety on the label, although a growing number are committed to using one of three regional designations.
This is where the strict guidelines come into force. Although the Maremma Toscana DOC is a very expansive framework, regulations intended to ensure high standards are rigidly enforced. A bottle labelled ‘Maremma Toscana Rosso’ must incorporate at least 60% of Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese and/or Syrah. The remainder of the blend will constitute up to 40% of the numerous other grape varieties planted in the region. Alcohol levels are also closely monitored. White, rosé and sparkling wine styles must contain a minimum of 10% abv. Maremma Toscana red wines—both single-varietal and blended—will always have a base alcohol level of 11%.
Like Chianti Classico, wine producers are also increasingly focused on releasing wines under the Riserva banner. In order to display the term ‘Riserva’ on the label, the white grapes must have been aged for a period of one year before release. The requirements for red wines are more stringent: a Rosso Riserva will have been aged for at least two years. Six months of this maturity must involve ageing in wood. Both French and Slovenian oak are popular in Tuscany.
The other vital part of the equation is vintage. Winegrowers in the Maremma have enjoyed a succession of good vintages over the past decade. However, 2015 remains the standout year.