An insider’s guide to red wine from the Loire Valley
Loire Valley wine has long been associated with fresh and saline whites; Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc are its key viticultural exports. Yet the Loire also produces some exceptional red styles, from Chinon to Sancerre rouge. Due to a combination of soil and cool climate, the wines are seldom alcoholic or powerful. Loire wine is well-suited to those looking for well-priced and quality wines with a balanced abv. If you seek fresh and elegant styles to pair with food, look no further.
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An overview
The Loire Valley wine region engulfs part of The Loire River – France’s longest river, leading to the Rhône Valley. It is arguably one of the most captivating parts of northern France, not to mention the French wine tourism that it attracts. However, the Loire Valley cannot be easily condensed. Despite the overall tendency for mild summers, there are broad variations in macroclimate, soil, and tradition, with different grape varieties being cultivated in the four key sub-regions; the Upper Loire, Centre Loire, Middle Loire, and Lower Loire – Diversity is an integral part of the viticultural tradition here.
Key red grape varieties
Almost without exception, Loire red wine styles are light to medium-bodied, fresh and invigorating. Although, the lightness of body should not be equated with a lack of intensity. The region’s red wine is dominated by the following red grape varieties.
- Cabernet Franc – this variety is, in fact, an ancestor of Cabernet Sauvignon, the noble red grape of Bordeaux. Yet there are major differences: the Cabernet Franc grape ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, producing a softer wine with more perfume and acidity.
- Gamay Noir – the signature red grape of Beaujolais is also responsible for making bright and floral wines in the Loire. Once dismissed as ‘lightweight’, good quality Gamay is back in vogue, appreciated for its moderate alcohol and fruit-forward flavours.
- Pinot Noir – without question, Pinot Noir is difficult to grow. However, at its best, Pinot Noir is incomparable in finesse and exquisite perfume. Admittedly, wine made in the Loire Valley lack the renown of Burgundy’s top villages but the quality to price ratio is often unbeatable.
Key sub-regions/appellations
Although the Loire Valley is famous for its white wine – Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc – its abundance of exquisite reds cannot be overlooked. We can now look at the key sub-regions in the Loire from a different perspective, as to fully appreciate the red wine appellations and winemaking traditions in the region.
Anjou
The Cabernet Franc grape variety finds a natural home in the vineyards west of Saumur, located on the southern bank of the Loire River. Historically, the region was better known for its delicious still white and sparkling wine, yet Anjou Rouge should not be dismissed. The appellation permits a certain percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the wines, albeit Cabernet Franc usually accounts for at least 60% of the final blend. One rosé wine style to note is Cabernet d’Anjou, otherwise known as Rosé d’Anjou. It uses a blend of Cabernet grape varieties for a refreshing palate cleanser.
The vines in Anjou are generally cultivated on well-drained schist and slate soils while, relatively cool summers ensure that the signature red export, Anjou Rouge, is fresh and lively, with moderate alcohol and good acidity. There are also two distinct appellations for superior wines: Anjou-Villages and Anjou-Villages-Brissac. In the best vintages, wine from Brissac offer unbeatable value; Anjou Gamay is no less delicious. Beaujolais’ key grape variety can produce bright and fruit-forward Loire red wines with soft tannins and low alcohol.
Saumur
Saumur’s claim to fame is tuffeau: crumbly terrain of porous, white limestone. In this region, many of the region’s leading wineries specialise in sparkling wine.
However, Saumur is equally celebrated for its Cabernet Franc, particularly red wine made in the appellation of Saumur-Champigny. The cool growing conditions and tuffeau are ideal for fashioning very elegant expressions of the grape, with moderate alcohol, soft tannins, and intense perfume. The most structured wines tend to be made from vineyards planted on the tuffeau slopes on the Loire’s south bank. Further inland, the terroir contains more sand and silt, yielding a softer style of Cabernet Franc. The region’s most famous label, Clos Rougeard. Organically farmed, Clos Rougeard exploits low yields, new French oak and first-rate terroir to produce a Loire Valley ‘First Growth’.
Western Touraine
For many critics, the western end of the Touraine region is the undisputed heartland of fine Cabernet Franc. The vineyards are situated to the south, west, and north of Chinon. The climate on the Atlantic coast yields superlative red wines, renowned for their freshness, vigour, and an aroma of raspberry. There are three key red wine appellations in Touraine: Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. All three share the same diversity of terroir – gravel, sand, and clay-limestone – but in varying proportions.
It is said that St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil produces the most structured and robust Cabernet Franc, largely due to its abundance of calcareous soils. Meanwhile, Chinon, and Bourgueil tend to offer lighter wines, particularly if the vines are cultivated on sandy/gravel soils. In addition, many excellent value bottles are marketed under the auspices of the Touraine Rouge designation. Several styles are permitted under the appellation framework, including 100% Gamay wines, Malbec, and multi-varietal blends; The Loire Valley remains a truly underrated source of weekend drinking.
Sancerre Rouge/Reuilly Rouge
Although Burgundy holds the monopoly on prestige, there are several regions in Europe offering high-quality and affordable Pinot Noir. Sancerre and Reuilly are among France’s most reliable producers, located in the eastern Loire and west of the town of Bourges respectively. Both appellations market a small quantity of textbook cool climate Pinot Noir, defined by moderate alcohol, vibrant acidity, and flavours of crushed red berries.
Enjoying Loire Valley red wines
Loire Valley red wines truly belong at the dinner table. Food and wine matching tends to work best when every element is in balance; lower abv styles are inherently more food friendly since excessively alcoholic wines can deflect from your meal and assault your palate; both the food and wine lose their definition and complexity.
However, there are several iconic pairings; try matching charcuterie with a Saumur Rouge, or confit de canard with Bourgueil. Although there are variances in weight and structure, the vast majority of Loire red wines are not aggressively tannic. Instead, they bring a lightness and elegance to your table. Chilled Gamay works incredibly well as a summer aperitif – Sancerre Rouge can even handle the wasabi on sushi night. Regardless of the dish, there is no bound to pairing red Loire wine.