The white wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon

The great sweep of vineyards in Languedoc-Roussillon, set against an undeniably beautiful landscape, was once derided by critics and rarely taken seriously in the mid-20th century, as its significant output was generally of mediocre quality. It remains the biggest single wine producer in Europe, with over 280,000 hectares under vine. But while the overall volumes remain high, many winegrowers have switched their focus from quantity to quality, mindful of the fierce competition from the New World.

Its modern transformation began in the early 1990s, when a younger generation of globe-trotting winemakers decided to adopt a new approach, bringing a more international outlook and fresh ideas. The region continues to build on this positive momentum, with new premium labels entering the global market on a monthly basis.

These dynamic trendsetters work in a vast region; the area under vine extends from the Spanish border all the way towards the lower Rhone valley. As a consequence, the Languedoc-Roussillon offers winegrowers a multitude of different soils and micro-climates, including several terroirs that excel at producing both still and sparkling white wine.

The increasing exploitation of cool-climate sites has led to a surplus of excellent white wine styles, from barrel-aged Chardonnay to aromatic Picpoul de Pinet. Make no mistake: there is more to the Languedoc-Roussillon than garrigue-scented red wines, even if they do account for the majority of high-quality exports.

Producing white wines in the Languedoc-Roussillon

At first glance, the area’s quintessentially Mediterranean climate is far more suited to the production of full-bodied red wines, rather than fresh and saline whites. It is characterised by very warm and dry summers, mild winters, and scant rainfall between June-September. But there is an important caveat: significant variances in altitude ensure that growing conditions are far from homogeneous. In addition, vineyards in the far west of the Languedoc are influenced by the close proximity to the Atlantic, benefiting from sea breezes in the summer months. The positive impact of a cooling Atlantic influence is most keenly felt in the hills south of Carcassonne, where growers craft delicious white wines in the appellation of Limoux. With careful site-selection, it is very possible to make white wines with good acidity in southern France.

White wine appellations/designations

There are three distinct sources of still white wine in the Languedoc-Roussillon. Many excellent labels are produced under the auspices of the Pays d’Oc framework, a pan-regional IGP designation for red, rosé and white wines. Any grower in the wider region is entitled to produce white wines labelled as Pays d’Oc and bottles often reference the grape variety on the label.

This is in contrast to brands marketed under the Languedoc AOC/Cotes du Roussillon appellations. Like Pays d’Oc, these two key designations are not restricted to one terroir or sub-zone; growers from across their respective regions can market wines under these multi-regional systems. However, there are stricter rules regarding yield and grape variety.

The third source of excellent white wines are geographically-delimited appellations, such as Picpoul de Pinet and Limoux. The former is made from the Picpoul grape, cultivated in six villages on the hills surrounding the Etang de Thau, close to Pezenas. You will want to become acquainted with these wines; they’re an ideal summer thirst quencher.

Pays d’Oc Blanc

Main white grape varieties used: Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, Clairette, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier.

Pays d’Oc is the modern miracle of France’s wine industry. It covers a wide variety of different sub-zones within the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region, yet the quality of output is remarkably consistent, despite the significant variances in grape variety and terroir. Both mono-varietal and blended styles are produced under the Pays d’Oc banner, including excellent Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Sauvignon Gris. The original framework was created in 1987, later modified to become a ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ (IGP) in 2009.

Today, every bottle certified as Pays d’Oc must pass a rigorous quality control process, including a tasting involving over 150 professionals. Unfortunately, it is difficult to provide a detailed guide to wine style, due to the incredible diversity of grape varieties employed. Nevertheless, Pays d’Oc white wines are typically fruit-forward, fresh, and ideal with seafood.

Cotes du Roussillon Blanc

Main white grape varieties used: Macabeo, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Marsanne and Roussanne.

Roussillon is far more than simply a suffix to the Languedoc. It is physically and culturally very different from its eastern neighbour, with its spectacular snow-capped peaks and a local preference for Catalan, the language of Barcelona. The appellation Cotes du Roussillon was founded in 1977, covering vineyards planted in the eastern edge of the Pyrenees mountains, stretching from Perpignan to the Spanish border. Many of the best white wines are blends, an exotic combination of Grenache Blanc, Macabeo, Roussanne and quite possibly some Vermentino. The best examples combine vibrant acidity with gorgeous aromas of lychee, melon, pineapple and honey suckle.

Languedoc AOC Blanc

Main white grape varieties used: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussannne, Viognier and Picpoul.

Growers belonging to the overarching Languedoc AOC (its boundaries extend across both the western and eastern Languedoc) have an enviable palate of white grape varieties at their disposal. These include: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier, and the local Bourboulenc. When blended with skill and panache, these grapes combine to form something far greater than the sum of its parts. The aromas will be multi-faceted: grape fruit, apricot, honey and dried fruits will leap from the glass. A rich and textured mouthfeel follows, with ripe acidity supporting notes of vanilla, toast and topical fruit. Moreover, white wines marketed under the Languedoc AOC banner are seldom very expensive.

Due to significant investment and better site-selection, the quality of output has soared in recent years. Although the majority of wines produced under the framework are red, an expanding firmament of producers are starting to branch out, encouraged by the burgeoning global market for aromatic whites. Like Pays d’Oc, the appellation is not restricted to one sub-region. However, Languedoc AOC permits a smaller number of grape varieties and imposes more stringent rules concerning yield and production methods.

Other delimited appellations

Limoux

Main white grape varieties used: Mauzac, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

Many would argue that Limoux is the finest white wine terroir in the Languedoc. Benefiting from an advantageous mix of altitude and the Atlantic’s moderating influence, vineyards thrive in a much cooler environment than expected in the Mediterranean. It is situated in the eastern part of the Aude province, in the Pyrenean foothills south of Carcassonne.

It is claimed that the oldest French sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux, was produced in the Languedoc long before Champagne found its way. The charming fable tells of the Benedictine monks of Saint-Hilaire making fizz in the 14th century, although this story has been questioned by critics like Tom Stevenson. Nevertheless, Blanquette de Limoux is a contemporary source of high-quality sparkling wine, predominately based on the indigenous Mauzac (minimum 90%) variety. It is a very aromatic style, with vibrant notes of apple, stone fruit and pear drop. In addition, the authorities introduced a separate appellation, Cremant de Limoux, in 1989. It requires a combined minimum of 30% Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay in the blends, unlike its older counterpart. Both styles offer an attractive alternative to Prosecco, at very fair prices. They are made using the traditional method (secondary fermentation in bottle).

Some excellent still white wines are also being made in Limoux, including barrel-aged Chardonnay that mirrors the quality and elegance found in Burgundy. The appellation rules, however, require that Mauzac is added to the blend; 100% Chardonnay wines will be labelled as IGP Pays d’Oc.

Picpoul de Pinet

Unusually for the Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet is an appellation dedicated to just one grape variety. The fruity, lemon scented Picpoul Blanc grape is exclusively responsible for these delicious white wines, cultivated in approximately 14,000 hectares situated close to the Mediterranean town of Agde. Many vineyards boast lovely views of the Bassin de Thau, which is an important centre for shellfish farming and fishing. It is a cliché, sure, but a welcome one: Picpoul de Pinet reaches an apogee when paired with fresh oysters.

However, the terroir is far from homogeneous. The northern section of the appellation is characterised by its calcareous soils and garrigue covered plains; it is hotter and drier than the coastal-influenced vineyards that flank the Mediterranean. Cool mornings and evening breezes help to maintain desirable levels of acidity, while the soils are a mixture of sand, silt and clay. These fragrant wines, bursting with notes of citrus and grapefruit, are the Languedoc’s answer to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.