A guide to the Côte de Nuits wine region
The greatest Pinot Noir in the world is made in Burgundy. Whether that statement should be regarded as a fact or opinion depends on your point of view, but the global market will pay almost any price for the Grand Cru wines of Chambertin, La Tache and Musigny.
The heartland of Burgundy is the famous Côte d’Or or golden slope. It is split into two distinct areas: the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. Located southwest of Dijon, the Côte de Nuits is renowned for producing complex, elegant and structured red wines. It is a sub-region overflowing with Pinot Noir wines of unrivalled finesse, structure and longevity. There are only a handful of white wines made in the zone today, based on the Chardonnay grape; blends are strictly forbidden in Burgundy.
Indeed, grape varieties are the most straightforward aspect of Burgundy’s wines. Red Burgundy in the Côte de Nuits is produced from Pinot Noir and nothing else. The climate is continental, defined by warm summers and cold winters. Spring can be very cold, with the omnipresent threat of frost attacks in March and even April.
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Côte de Nuits: Overview
There are four categories of vineyards in the Côte de Nuits: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village and Bourgogne Blanc/Rouge in descending order of quality and price. It has been this way since the Middle Ages when the Cistercian Monks (custodians of the land at the time) started exploring the differences between their respective vineyards. The local culture places the highest emphasis on terroir; the individual conditions which make one vineyard site distinct from another. These factors could include soil structure, aspect, drainage and altitude. As far as the winemaker is concerned, one vineyard site is clearly different and perhaps inferior or superior to another, even if they share geographical boundaries. Where the wine came from is the decisive factor in Burgundy.
The vineyards of the Côte de Nuits run south towards the city of Lyon, shadowed by the famous escarpment that defines the zone. They occupy a narrow strip of land, some 20 kilometres long and, in some cases, only 200 metres wide. The most celebrated vineyards are planted on south and southeast-facing slopes, ensuring that the vines receive ample exposure to the morning sun, aiding the ripening process.
The soils are generally calcareous marls of clay/limestone, albeit with variances between appellations and villages. The zone encompasses 14 communes and numerous regional appellations, named after the pretty villages of the Côte de Nuits, such as Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée. Their wines are responsible for the wealth and prosperity of the entire Burgundy region. In addition, the Côte de Nuits play host to 24 of Burgundy’s 33 Grand Cru climats (vineyard sites). The most important of these villages and climats are listed below, running from north to south.
Marsannay and Fixin
The villages of Marsannay and Fixin are situated at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits. In fact, Marsannay is just eight kilometres from the handsome city of Dijon, making day trips a very real possibility. Unusually for the Côte de Nuits, the appellation is known for its rosé and white wines, as much as the Pinot Noir reds. Although there are no classified Premier Cru vineyards, let alone Grand Crus, in Marsannay, the appellation is a reliable source of good value wines. The soils are generally composed of Bathonian limestone, with outcrops of stone, gravel, clay and silt. The Pinot Noir from Marsannay is typically light and softly structured—ideal for summer drinking. The appellation of Fixin, however, is associated with sturdy, robust red wines with a relatively high level of tannin. It contains eight Premier Cru vineyards, which vie with Marsannay for the title of ‘best value wines’ in the Côte de Nuits. At their best, the Pinot Noir grown here is rich and powerful, with enough tannin to withstand at least 10 years bottle age.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine commune in the Côte de Nuits, containing nine of the 24 Grand Cru vineyards scattered throughout the zone. Its Pinot Noir wines are legendary, renowned for their power, structure and longevity. Top-quality Gevrey-Chambertin wine is full and sturdy, rarely lacking tannin or acidity.
The most famous Grand Cru vineyard is simply called Chambertin. The vines are planted at an altitude of between 275 and 300 metres, on Bajocian limestone. The wines are simply magnificent: virile, concentrated and exotic. Its closest rival is Clos de Beze, planted at a similar altitude and located due north of Chambertin. At their best, these two sources of Pinot Noir have no equals in the world of fine wine. The perfume of Clos de Beze is an intoxicating mix of black fruit, liquorice, coffee beans and marzipan.
But there is always competition in this part of the world. The Grand Crus of Champelle-Chambertin, Charmes and Mazis all produce aromatic and structured wines of real class and refinement. Similarly, the Premier Cru vineyard Clos Saint-Jacques is considered by many critics to be ripe for promotion to Grand Cru status. Unfortunately, change seldom occurs at any speed in Burgundy.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Although Morey-Saint-Denis lacks the fame of its neighbour, the appellation is a fertile hunting ground for excellent Pinot Noir wines. The commune’s most celebrated vineyards are four Grand Crus: Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart, the last climat purchased by the owner of Chateau Latour in 2017. The wines are often robust and fruit-driven, with flavours of raspberries, redcurrant and damson. They have a purity and class that shine through during blind tastings. The appellation has also 20 tiny Premier Cru vineyards, few of which are well-known. Yet the standard of winemaking is very high, while prices have remained reasonable.
Chambolle-Musigny
In the opinion of many critics, Chambolle-Musigny is the greatest Pinot Noir village on earth. The Grand and Premier Crus are cultivated on an exceptional terroir, marked by a high percentage of active limestone and light soils covered in small pebbles. The topsoil lies on a combination of Bathonian and Bajocian limestone that provides excellent drainage, aspect and elevation. The resulting wines are utterly delicious and moreish. Above all else, top-flight Chambolle-Musigny is renowned for its beguiling aromas and the most intensely favoured fruit imaginable. There is a depth, complexity and elegance that is rarely encountered elsewhere.
There are two Grand Crus in the village, Le Musigny and Les Bonnes Mares, the subjects of much debate among collectors as to which is the superior of the two. Le Musigny is celebrated for its beautiful perfume, while Bonnes Mares tends to have more tannin and power—young vintages can require some bottle age to soften the immense structure. However, the Premier Crus must not be overlooked; Les Amoureuses and Les Charmes are very reliable sources of premium grade Chambolle-Musigny.
Vougeot
The appellation of Vougeot is a complete anomaly. Unlike its counterparts, very little village wine is made here and there are four tiny Premier Crus. Instead, the focus is squarely fixed on the 50-hectare Clos de Vougeot, a sea of vines surrounded by a high stone wall of ancient origin. It is the largest Grand Cru in the Côte de Nuits, with ownership divided between more than 75 producers. It is generally agreed that the finest section is located near the top of the climat, where the vineyard borders the Grand Cru Echezeaux. The soil is a mixture of pebbles and Bathonian limestone. The resulting red wine is lush, with spicy characteristics and a rich, sumptuous palate. Imagine soft red berries sitting atop blackberries and dark chocolate, and you’ve got a handle on Clos de Vougeot. With age, aromas of grilled nuts and coffee tend to emerge.
Vosne-Romanée
The wine writer Hugh Johnson described the Grand Crus of Vosne-Romanée as having “reserves of flavour beyond imagination”, which unsurprisingly sell for crown-jewel prices. There are six Grand Cru vineyards in the commune, the most famous being Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. It is a single vineyard owned entirely by the estate of the same name. The cult surrounding this piece of land is unparalleled, so much so that an undisclosed party attempted to blackmail the owners in 2011, threatening to poison their precious vineyards unless a 1 million euro ransom was paid. Thankfully nothing came of their threat. The Grand Crus of La Tache, Richebourg and Echezeaux are similarly adored by collectors worldwide.
Are the wines worth these high prices? That very much depends on your point of view, although there is no denying the complexity, concentration, depth and finesse inherent to the best wines of the commune. However, Vosne-Romanée is also blessed with several excellent Premier Cru vineyards, sold at more accessible prices. Moreover, the village wines of the appellation can represent excellent value.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
The last commune of the Côte de Nuits is far from a forgotten relation. Situated halfway between the town of Beaune and Dijon, Nuits-Saint-Georges effectively marks the end of the sub-region. There are no Grand Crus, but an impressive list of 27 Premier Crus that are making delicious and affordable red wine. Planted on Bathonian limestone interspersed with pebbles, clay, and alluvial matter, the appellation is generally known for its tannic and robust interpretations of the Pinot Noir grape. The best wines are rich, full and sturdy, with enough tannin to allow considerable bottle age.