A guide to the Côte de Beaune wine region
The Burgundy wine region is complex, with an incredible variety of individual vineyards, appellations, and estates housed in a (relatively) small geographical area. Bordeaux aficionados will find little common ground between the wines of Pauillac and Pommard.
Burgundy is dominated by just two grape varieties: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The majority (75%) of the region’s output is red wine, with about 25% being white wine made predominately from Chardonnay. Unlike Bordeaux, varietal blends are illegal in Burgundy—’adulterating’ Pinot Noir with another grape variety would be viewed as sacrilegious.
Burgundy’s viticultural heartland is the Côte d’Or (golden slope), a narrow strip of land that runs from the outskirts of Dijon to within touching distance of the town of Chagny. Some of the world’s most expensive and iconic wines are made on the slopes of this escarpment, which is split into two distinct areas: the Côte de Nuits and the focus of this article, the Côte de Beaune further south.
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Côte de Beaune: an overview
The key to unlocking Burgundy is to understand the nature of the region’s hierarchy. Land, not individual wine estates, are classified in the Côte d’Or. Every vineyard in the Côte de Beaune is ranked and graded according to the perceived quality of the wines it produces. There are four categories of vineyards: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village and Bourgogne Blanc/Rouge in descending order of quality and price. Where the wine came from is the decisive factor in Burgundy.
The Côte de Beaune sub-region is responsible for the most celebrated Chardonnay wines in the world: Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. Yet a great deal of excellent red is also made in these hallowed vineyards, exclusively from the Pinot Noir grape. Its geographical boundaries encompass the village of Pernand-Vergelesses in the northern end of zone, extending south to the village of Santenay. The vineyards of the Côte de Beaune occupy a strip of land some 25 kilometres long and just under five kilometres wide.
The most celebrated vineyards of the Côte de Beaune are planted on south and southeast-facing slopes of the limestone escarpment. This land is highly coveted, as the escarpment protects the vineyards from prevailing westerly winds while the south-facing aspect maximises the exposure to sunlight; essential for ripening the grapes. The climate is continental, defined by warm summers and cold winters. Spring can be very cold, with the omnipresent threat of frost attacks in March and even April.
The soils are generally calcareous marls of clay and limestone, with some variances between appellations and villages. The zone encompasses 20 wine-growing centres, including Meursault and the pretty town of Beaune. It contains the legendary Grand Cru vineyard of Corton, and every white Grand Cru vineyard found in the Côte d’Or. The most important of these villages and vineyards are listed below, running from north to south.
Aloxe-Corton
The village of Aloxe-Corton sits at the foot of the imposing Corton hill, responsible for two of Burgundy’s most famous Grand Cru wines: red Corton and its white counterpart Corton-Charlemagne. In total, there are some 160 hectares of Grand Cru land on the hill, making it the largest top rank vineyard in the region. The Chardonnay is planted on the west-facing upper slopes of Corton on limestone-rich marls, while further down you’ll encounter more iron and pebbles, but less clay.
Corton-Charlemagne is among the greatest white wines of Burgundy. It is reminiscent of a Grand Cru Chablis, with a steely mineral backbone, ripe acidity and immense structure. The best vintages can last for decades, becoming softer and more opulent as they age. So, too, is red Corton a wine of power and structure. It often needs a few years for the tannins to soften, but the rewards will justify your patience. A mature vintage of Corton is a complex delight, with aromas of tobacco, sour cherry, game and mint.
To the west of Aloxe-Corton is the little-known commune of Pernand-Vergelesses, some of which is tucked into the folds of the hills. Increasingly good value white and red is being made here. To the south, it adjoins Savigny-Les-Beaune, which extends east up a little valley to the village itself. Like its smaller neighbour Chorley-Les-Beaune, Savigny is not a hunting ground for famous vineyard names and iconic labels, but most of the wine is affordable and good quality.
Beaune
Beaune is the third-largest commune of the Côte d’Or and the undisputed wine capital of Burgundy. Inside the old walls are cobbled streets, ancient buildings, and beautiful squares. Although there are no Grand Cru vineyards, the appellation plays host to string of Premier Crus that occupy the lower slopes of the escarpment, west of the town. There are 44 in total, producing a decent quantity (by local standards) of Pinot Noir reds, and a far smaller amount of white.
Stylistically, it is hard to pin down the appellation’s signature trademark, as the soils vary dramatically. In some parts it is very thin, with a limestone-rich top soil. Elsewhere, sand and gravel soils are common, while the southern section of Beaune has larger amounts of red clay. As a result, certain wines are powerful and robust, whilst others boast a lightness of touch and ethereal quality. Clos du Roi is renowned for its supple texture and fine perfume, while Marconnets reds tend to be rich and sturdy, with ample tannin and acidity.
Pommard
Many critics believe that the best red wines of the Côte de Beaune come from Pommard. There is a high percentage of limestone in the commune’s soils, intermixed with deep bands of clay. Such a terroir produces rich and concentrated wines of impressive tannic ‘heft’. There are no Grand Crus, however, Pommard’s 28 Premier Crus are not to be sniffed at. It is widely agreed that the three climats of Petits Epenots, Grands Epenots and Des Epeneaux are responsible for the finest red wine. They occupy the best land in the appellation, on a gentle slope with well-drained soils rich in iron. Pinot Noir thrives in such conditions, producing powerful and structured wines of intensity and weight.
Volnay
Volnay is one of the smaller appellations in the Côte de Beaune, but it produces a large percentage of superb red wine that is elegant, fragrant and softly structured. Compared to Pommard further north, the soils of Volnay are very light, which must explain why Volnay is rarely heavy or robust. There are 35 Premier Cru vineyards, although Burgundy-lovers tend to single-out Clos de Chenes, Taille Pieds, Les Caillerets and Santenots du Milieu as Volnay’s top-performing climats. In particular, Clos de Chenes is celebrated for its velvety texture, fine tannins and complex bouquet.
Meursault
Meursault is the most important white wine commune in the Côte d’Or. Although a tiny amount of red is produced, Meursault is overwhelmingly associated with the Chardonnay grape. At its best, Meursault is a rich and very stylish wine, with aromas of hazelnuts, butter and apricots. Its opulence is only matched by the racy acidity and inimitable freshness.
There are 30 Premier Crus in the appellation, although critics regard the vineyards of Perrieres, Genevrieres and Charmes as the finest sources of Meursault today. Perrieres is considered to be the most steely of the Premier Crus, typically offering aromas of acacia, honeysuckle and white flowers. Meanwhile, Genevrieres is much loved for its opulence, spicy palate and great length. Charmes is another sommelier favourite, adored for its intensity, richness and complexity. Such wines are expensive, but rarely disappoint.
Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet
Aficionados of white Burgundy will pay almost any price for the top climats of Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet. The former commune boasts Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, two of Burgundy’s six white Grand Crus. The Grand Crus lie at the southern end of the appellation, overlapping into its neighbour Chassagne-Montrachet. Of course, the Premier Crus of Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet are a dependable source of world-class Chardonnay, but it is the Grand Crus that delight collectors.
Le Montrachet is widely regarded as the greatest Chardonnay in the world. What is so special about this vineyard? Well, scientists have been analysing the soil for decades. They found many trace elements in the soil, including copper, zinc, nickel and even silver. But no one can precisely identify why Montrachet is so special. The proof, of course, is in the drinking: Montrachet represents the Chardonnay grape at its most perfect. The concentration, intensity and depth of flavour in these wines has no parallel. Its closest rival is Chevalier-Montrachet, another superlative Grand Cru. Batard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet are similarly esteemed. Of the Premier Crus, Les Demoiselles and Les Pucelles in Puligny-Montrachet attract the most praise from buyers and critics.
Chassagne-Montrachet, it must be said, also produces some high-quality red wine. The Pinot Noirs from this commune are generally light and elegant, with aromas of raspberries and red cherry.
Saint Aubin and Santenay
Behind Chassagne and Puligny lies the village of Saint-Aubin. Some fantastic value white wine is being produced by the best growers in the appellation, as prices have yet to catch up with quality. The reds tend to be relatively light, perfect for drinking alone. Santenay is the Côte de Beaune’s last significant village of quality as the tail of the vineyards area swings west. From south-facing vineyards red wines dominate, the best of these are full and stylish. One or two excellent whites are also being produced from the Premier Cru sites. The lack of hype surrounding these two communes is a gift to the consumer.