An insider’s guide to Californian wine: the Central Coast
When the legendary Judgment of Paris pitched Californian brands against their French counterparts in 1976, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello received higher scores from critics than Bordeaux Second Growth Leoville Las Cases. Founded in the 1960s, the original estate is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains and is now a famous sub-region of California Central Coast. A major winery expansion that occurred in the 20th century gave rise to numerous world-class establishments, including Au Bon Climat and Austin Hope.
Unlike across France and parts of Europe, Central Valley winemakers usually place the grape varieties on the front label. Moreover, winegrowers enjoy the freedom to cultivate a diverse palate of varieties, from Nebbiolo to Pinot Noir.
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Geography and terroir
Stretching from San Francisco Bay south to Santa Barbara, the Central Coast covers over 100 miles of Pacific coastline. It is home to California’s coolest sub-region; Santa Maria Valley is one of the few areas where grapes can struggle to ripen in difficult years. Its star producers continue making some of the finest Pinot Noir available in the US today.
The average rainfall is extremely low throughout the Central Coast wine country, so much of the region is essentially desert. As a result, most vineyard sites cannot survive without irrigation. Beyond that, making generalisations about Central Valley terroir is an impossible task. Climatic conditions and topography are highly heterogeneous in this part of California, ranging from the Mediterranean climate of Paso Robles to the maritime of Santa Barbara. Geologists have long been fascinated by the wine region, as the San Andreas Fault runs through the eastern part of California Central Coast. Soils run from clay-limestone to marine sediments and loam.
Key sub-regions
Central Coast viticulture is not a recent innovation. Spanish missionaries imported European vines in the early 18th century. However, Prohibition led to many winery closures. Investors were again attracted to the wine region in the latter half of the 20th century, setting up wineries to take advantage of the ideal growing conditions. Today the Central Coast is a hotbed of innovation and excitement, with a healthy mix of artisan wineries and major producers. Wines are either marketed under the generic Central Coast AVA (American Viticultural Area) or the auspices of numerous sub-regional appellations. The key sources of premium California wine are listed below:
Santa Cruz Mountains AVA
Situated between Monterey Bay and the urban sprawl of San Francisco, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA has become one of California’s leading sources of exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Nonetheless, its geographical boundaries encompass three counties (Santa Cruz, San Mateo and Santa Clara) with varying soil conditions. However, growers agree that the leading vineyard sites are found on the western slopes of the mountain ranges, with Pacific breezes helping to cool vine canopies. This encourages a slower ripening to maintain acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives on the appellation’s free-draining clay and shale terroir, yielding fragrant and balanced red wines. They are irresistible when paired with roast lamb.
Sta. Rita Hills AVA
Head northwest of Santa Barbara and discover one of California’s most dynamic vineyards. It is the coolest sub-region of the Santa Ynez Valley. Sta. Rita Hills boasts a wide variety of soils, including sand, loam and clay. Vineyard sites in the western half of the zone enjoy a particularly cool maritime climate, which is used to produce outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Meanwhile, vineyards in the warmer eastern section of Sta. Rita Hills is yielding Grenache and Syrah wines that can rival the best of the Rhône Valley . The renowned label Sine Qua Non owns several hectares in the appellation, used to produce voluptuous Rhône-style blends.
Paso Robles AVA
The warmest vineyard sites on the Central Coast are found in San Luis Obispo County. Its most crucial appellation, Paso Robles, established an inaugural reputation for producing concentrated Zinfandel, imported by Italian families in the 1800s. It is also responsible for the Central Coast’s first attempt at growing Pinot Noir. Yet Paso Robles’ contemporary fame is built around its success with Rhône varieties, particularly Syrah and Grenache. The western vineyards offer the finest growing conditions, since they are cooled by ocean air. The eastern section, however, is protected by a mountain barrier, which blocks maritime influences.
Edna Valley AVA
Located to the southeast of San Luis Obispo city, the appellation produces a staggering amount of excellent wine, primarily based on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Its vineyard sites enjoy all the benefits of proximity to the ocean; sea air is blown across Morro Bay, cooling vine canopies. The net result is a prolonged growing season, yielding small berries packed full of acidity and flavour.
Santa Maria Valley AVA
The jewel of Santa Barbara County and home to the state’s coolest viticultural area is Santa Maria Valley, situated in the north of the county. It boasts an exceptionally long growing season; thanks to maritime influences, Pacific fogs extend ripening until late September – at the earliest. This shines through in the wines, which offer crisp acidity, spicy aromatics and intense fruit flavours.
Grape varieties
The Central California Coast has achieved international recognition for the quality of its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; Zinfandel can be equally as impressive, in addition to local interpretations of Italian classics like Sangiovese.
Chardonnay – the best white wine examples offer an attractive mix of Burgundian finesse and Californian ripeness, with citrus, apple and vanilla aromas.
Cabernet Sauvignon – there is a herbaceous quality to certain Cabernet Sauvignon wines made on the Central Coast, with notes of blackcurrant leaf, bell pepper and menthol. Ripe acidity and firm tannins in the best examples allow the wine to improve in bottle for at least 15 years.
Cabernet Franc – A sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux grape produces exceptional Californian Central Coast wine. Velvety tannins support a ripe (but fresh) palate of forest floor, dark berries, garrigue and plum.
Pinot Noir – the late Jim Clendenen did much to further the reputation of Californian Pinot Noir. His family continue cultivating choice parcels in the Santa Maria Valley, yielding wines with exquisite perfume and freshness with a scent of crushed red berries and vanilla.
Sangiovese – this grape is responsible for the delicious red wines of Chianti Classico, Sangiovese. California Wine made with Sangiovese on the Central Coast tends to be full-bodied, in addition to the grape’s trademark ripe acidity.
Syrah – cool-climate Syrah is a popular classic and the best wines from the Central Coast offer very high acidity, offset by intense red and black fruit. The top cuvées can be very long-lived.
Sauvignon Blanc – Central Coast wine using Sauvignon Blanc is quite distinct from the predominant style made in hotter parts of California. The white wine resembles New Zealand Marlborough’s piercing acidity and fragrant aromas of green pepper and gooseberry. Sta. Rita Hills is producing some outstanding examples.
Zinfandel – dry-farmed Zinfandel is a speciality of the Paso Robles sub-region. Expect an intoxicating mix of layered red fruit, white pepper and bright acidity on the palate. Ridge Vineyards arguably produce the most refined expression.
The term “food friendly” captures the spirit of Central Coast wine. Local climatic conditions, by and large, are conducive to producing balanced and fresh wine styles with moderate alcohol and racy acidity. Excess alcohol can often destroy a wine’s definition and focus but this is seldom an issue in Central California. The wine region offers an expanding portfolio of well-made and precise wines that can form harmonious partnerships with various dishes and cuisines. If you seek a great pairing: roast wild duck with Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir always hits the spot. Our top choice? Dover sole meunière paired with Au Bon Climat Chardonnay.
Check out our range of Central Coast wine
Related pages
An insider’s guide to Californian wine: North Coast
An insider’s guide to Californian wine