A guide to Bordeaux’s expansive Right Bank

When Henry II married Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, the English acquired much of the land that today constitutes the wider Bordeaux region. Some of the first vineyards included the Graves zone and the small farms surrounding the town of Libourne, east of the Dordogne river. As Bordeaux’s commercial importance and vineyard acreage grew, merchants needed a way to distinguish Libourne’s wines from those produced on the Left Bank of the Gironde estuary, known as the Medoc. The epithet ‘Right Bank’ was born.

The differences between the vineyards of the Left and Right Banks are not simply geographical in nature. Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape variety in Left Bank wine, while properties on the Right Bank place Merlot at the heart of their wines. Gravel soils are ubiquitous in the Left Bank; clay-limestone terroir is the trademark of vineyards planted east of the Dordogne. The contemporary face of the Right Bank encompasses over 10 appellations, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Renowned for producing small quantities of voluptuous and concentrated wine, the top labels are in high demand and short supply. They have become luxury items, perfect for a special occasion, but probably too expensive for weekend drinking.

Fortunately, such wines do not represent the total of the Right Bank. There is a world of viticultural excitement to be found in this part of Bordeaux, emanating from appellations like Fronsac and Lalande de Pomerol. Their relative lack of fame has kept prices stable, while international and domestic investment continues to pour into these regions. As a result, the best properties are making wines of excellent quality and terrific value. It’s our job to help you make the most of it.

Lalande de Pomerol

If oenophiles cannot stomach paying for the most prestigious Bordeaux wines, they should investigate Lalande de Pomerol. The appellation is located due north of Pomerol, centred around the villages of Neac and its namesake Lalande. There are currently 1,154 hectares under vine, spread across a small wine zone created in 1954. It is increasingly associated with stupendous value red wines (no white is made), predominantly based on the Merlot grape variety. There are small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon cultivated, but they seldom play a decisive role in the blends.

When tasted blind, Lalande de Pomerol can sometimes fool a critic into believing that a far more expensive wine has been poured. The terroir is generally held in high regard despite being quite varied; there is a high percentage of gravel in the more northerly vineyards of the zone, a comparative rarity in the Right Bank. Soils around the town of Neac are mostly clay, whereas the village of Lalande is known for its warm sandy terroir.

However, prior to the late twentieth century, Lalande de Pomerol was not well regarded by the Bordeaux establishment. A combination of high yields and a dearth of investment was a recipe for lacklustre quality and dilute wines. Many of the vineyards used to be machine-picked, and much of the appellation’s output was sold in bulk. Then the ambitious investors arrived, most notably Hubert de Bouard of Angelus fame, who purchased a small estate in 1998. His venture, La Fleur de Bouard, is now making wines to rival the best of Pomerol, as are several other properties like Chateau Grand Ormeau and Garraud.

Côtes de Bordeaux

Bordeaux’s youngest wine label is an anomaly—five appellations in one. Created in 2009 by the Bordeaux wine council, the Côtes de Bordeaux merged four existing appellations into a simplified designation: Premieres Côtes de Blaye; Côtes de Castillon; Côtes de Francs; and Cadillac. The appellation of Sainte-Foy Côtes de Bordeaux subsequently elected to market its wines under the generic banner in 2016.

Uniquely in Bordeaux, the framework allows cross-blending of wines from different regions that belong to the overarching appellation. For example, a Côtes de Bordeaux label might contain 50% Merlot from Côtes de Francs and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon from Blaye. However, winemakers are also permitted to express the identity of a single terroir. The rules stipulate that ‘Côtes de Bordeaux’ must be suffixed to the regional title.

Over 930 producers market their wines under the Côtes de Bordeaux framework, cultivating vineyards in geographically diverse areas. Côtes de Castillon and Francs are situated east of Saint-Émilion, whereas Blaye is located many miles to the northwest, directly across the estuary from the Medoc. Meanwhile, Cadillac is an extension of the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region, sandwiched between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. As one would expect, the terroir varies dramatically in structure and quality; fertile alluvial soils are common near the Dordogne river, while clay-limestone is found in many communes throughout Francs.

Nevertheless, properties belonging to the Côtes de Bordeaux designation are now offering wines of exceptional quality and value. Both red and white wines are produced, from a range of grape varieties including Merlot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillion and Muscadelle. Investment has poured into districts like Côtes de Castillon and Francs, largely from winemakers in Saint-Émilion who wished to expand their holdings.

Fronsac

A small appellation with great ambition, Fronsac is arguably producing the best-value red Bordeaux wine today. Just over 770 hectares of vineyards are planted in the zone, located to the west of Pomerol. The top wines—velvety, opulent reds based on the Merlot grape—are beautiful examples of terroir-driven winemaking at its finest. Yet, many of the châteaux price their wines at under £20.

Historically, the wines of Fronsac were the most highly prized in Bordeaux, served at the French Court during the seventeenth century. They continued to command enormous respect throughout the nineteenth century and were even mentioned in an early Christie’s auction catalogue. Their reputation dwindled in the 1900s, supplanted by the burgeoning fame of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. Contemporary Fronsac is far from trendy, but it is a fertile hunting ground for bargains.

There is nothing second-rate about the terroir or standards being applied in Fronsac today. The area’s rolling hills, steep river valley and ornate riverside châteaux are a tourist paradise, but Fronsac’s mansions aren’t simply there for show. The dominant soil type is known as Molasses du Fronsadais; clay-limestone mixed in with sandstone. Other parts of the appellation, especially the northern sector, contain a larger percentage of sand. The undulating landscape helps with vine drainage in inclement vintages, with the higher south-facing slopes considered to be Fronsac’s ‘Grand Crus’. Almost every wine made in Fronsac is based on at least 70% Merlot, with Cabernet Franc adding freshness and acidity to the blend. Small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon are only added in exceptional years.

Côtes de Bourg

In 2009, Côtes de Bourg’s winegrowers elected not to join the fledgling Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. Whether this will disadvantage the region’s marketing clout remains to be seen, but wine quality has certainly not been affected. Situated 12 miles northwest of the city of Bordeaux, Bourg continues to be an outpost of affordable premium brands. The appellation’s generally small and family-run properties cultivate approximately 1650 hectares of vineyards, largely planted to red grape varieties. Merlot is once again the favoured variety here, with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec planted. There is also a tiny volume of white wine made in Bourg, typically a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillion and Colombard.

Stylistically, the Bourg top wines are rich, robust and structured, with enough tannin to allow at least a decade of ageing. Unlike Fronsac, Cabernet Franc is less important than Cabernet Sauvignon in Bourg, as the zone’s gravel outcrops are ideally suited to ripening the variety. However, clay-limestone is the dominant soil type, with smaller outcrops of ironstone adding weight to the wines, especially Merlot. The terroir is considered to rival the Medoc in certain cases, due to the proximity of the Gironde estuary and its ability to moderate spring temperatures, making frost/hail attacks unlikely. Such desirable conditions have attracted an influx of investment over the past 15 years, including owners from Saint-Émilion and the Medoc. Their achievements have inspired ambitious winegrowers to continually up their game, keeping Côtes de Bourg on its toes.