Located in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, Barolo’s vineyards are responsible for producing highly sought-after wines of unrivalled elegance and finesse. But for consumers who may be relatively new to the subject of Italian appellations, Barolo’s complex wine culture can be difficult to assimilate—a point of comparison is useful here. Thankfully, the parallels between Barolo and Burgundy are numerous. The latter has long been the favourite of collectors and connoisseurs, and Barolo is rapidly catching up.

Both regions are in the fine wine business, marketing prestigious red wines from a single grape variety, as enshrined in law. Both place a high premium on the value of terroir and the importance of expressing the unique qualities of a particular site. Carefully delineated family-owned vineyards are responsible for Barolo and Burgundy’s prosperity. Traditionally, as in Burgundy, the same family that tends the vines makes the wine. This is not a region dominated by large corporations and absentee landlords.

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Barolo and the Nebbiolo grape

While Burgundy stakes its claim on Pinot Noir, Barolo’s red wines are exclusively based on the majestic Nebbiolo grape. It thrives in the latter’s continental climate, with typically warm summers and very cold winters. Nebbiolo is a late-ripening variety, packed full of flavouring compounds, acidity and tannin. Therefore, it requires a deft touch in the winery. If the winegrower succeeds, then they’ll have created an ethereal red wine of hauntingly beautiful perfume. The best examples can age for decades, revealing a mosaic of tertiary flavours: truffle, wood smoke and forest floor are often mentioned. In its youth, Barolo can be very tough and tannic. A few years of bottle age is always needed to allow the divergent elements to marry and soften. The best wines are typically expensive, but always worth their outlay.

It must be said that Barolo is not the only source of high-quality Nebbiolo in Piedmont. Nonetheless, most critics would agree that the grape reaches an apogee in the vineyards located on the right bank of the River Tanaro. The undulating vineyards that constitute the Barolo appellation are found to the southwest of the city of Alba, grown in 11 communes nestled in the dramatic Langhe hills. The zone was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status in 1980, the same year as Brunello di Montalcino.

Terroir

Like Burgundy, contemporary Barolo is a paradise for viticulturists. With each year, growers continue to refine their knowledge of the region’s incredibly diverse terroir (growing conditions). A multitude of soil types, microclimates and elevations ensure that while quality standards remain high across the board, stylistic variations between different vineyards in Barolo are common. Barolo’s winemakers, once again mirroring Burgundian culture, assign names to specific vineyard sites. The terms bric or bricco are used to describe individual vineyards in the zone. An exploration of these viticultural differences can offer fascinating insights into the relationship between terroir and wine style.

The sub-region of Barolo, named after the zone’s namesake village, is renowned for producing some of the most aromatically expressive and refined wines. The most famous of its vineyards is called Canubi, one of Italy’s oldest named sites. Situated in the south-west of the appellation, its calcareous soils, relatively low altitude and southwesterly exposure yield structured wines of real class and distinction.

Other great named vineyards Cerequio, which boasts a south-eastern facing aspect and prolonged sun exposure during the long summer days that ripens Nebbiolo to glorious intensity. In addition, the soils are rich in magnesium, a factor which growers insist heavily contributes to the wine’s particularly fruit-forward, aromatic profile. Occasionally, it is tempting to conclude that anecdotes about soil influencing a wine’s style are simply a marketing gimmick. Yet an exploration of Barolo’s terroirs and wines appears to prove otherwise.

Travel further east and you’ll encounter the vineyards of Castiglione Falleto and Serralunga d’Alba. The soils in these two sub-zones have a higher percentage of sandstone, which tends to produce some of the appellation’s most concentrated wines. Serralunga d’Alba is home to one of Barolo’s most famous vineyard sites: Francia. It is owned exclusively by the legendary Giacomo Conterno and the royal estate of Fontanafredda. Planted at high altitudes of over 400 metres above sea level, Francia’s hallowed vines always ripen berries with a powerful tannic structure and racy acidity. They combine the best element of force and finesse in an irresistible, if expensive package. In the best vintages, Francia is among Barolo’s most uncompromising wine, requiring at least a decade of bottle age before the ethereal bouquet will emerge.

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Regional change

Today, Barolo is preoccupied with a contentious issue: should growers continue to blend wines from across the region to attain greater complexity? Proponents of the region’s single-vineyard styles argue that their bottles offer a far more authentic interpretation of a particular terroir. But there is no right or wrong approach.

Historically, Barolo did not place an overarching emphasis on single-vineyard wines. Throughout most of the 20th century, Barolo was always a blend of fruit from different sites across the region, bought by merchants whose name came first rather than that of a vineyard. Indeed, prior to the 21st century, no legally approved list of vineyard names existed in the industry.

However, in 2008 a landmark move was taken by the Consortium of Barolo growers, who began to construct a list of sub-zones and vineyard sites, after many years of lobbying from influential figures in the industry. Their recognition of the vineyards and sub-areas was largely based on the work of renowned winemaker Renato Ratti, who, in 1980 after years of painstaking research, created a map of Barolo’s top vineyards.

As a result, more winemakers in Barolo are unwilling to blend wines produced from distinct terroirs in the zone. Yet as critics such as Jancis Robinson MW frequently remark, single-vineyard Barolos are not necessarily the best examples from the region; they are just among the best. There are spectacular single-vineyard expressions released every year, and some excellent wines made from a mosaic of different terroirs. As ever, personal preferences reign supreme.

Wine production

According to the DOCG rules, Barolo must be aged for at least two years in oak and one year in bottle. Meanwhile, the Riserva tier of wines is aged for a minimum duration of 62 months (three years in wood) before being brought to market. Certain winemakers prefer to age their wines in French barrique, while others favour a longer period of ageing in ancient old casks. One school of thought emphasises a shorter fermentation in stainless steel tanks, followed by two years in new French oak. These wines have their respective merits; approachable at a younger age, the oak impression will be more pronounced on the nose and palate.

Of course, traditionalists abhor this practice. They continue to macerate (the process of keeping the wine in contact with grape skins) for a period of at least 35 days, before ageing for another two to four years in casks. This style of Barolo can take a decade to properly reveal its charms.

In the face of such diversity, it may seem difficult to assign any unifying characteristics to even a small selection of 10 different Barolos, both blended and single-vineyard expressions. However, this part of the world can surprise you. The majority of Barolo wines will be typified by their firm tannins, relatively light colour, high acidity and powerful structure. On release, you may detect aromas of raspberries, cherry and spice. Over time, gamey notes will emerge.

Critics salivate over bottles of old Barolo, and the heady perfume which invokes tar, incense, leather and black truffle. At their best, the sensual pleasure delivered by a good Barolo wine is incomparable. Of course, terroir differences can be detected when tasting across different locations. Experienced tasters, for example, can always identify the wines of Cannubi, when benchmarked against the more powerful styles made in Francia.

Barolo is also custom made for fine gastronomy. Foodies delight in serving Barolo with the white truffles of Piedmont, especially if risotto or pasta are involved. The region’s truffle season and Alba’s truffle fair, always draw a large crowd of international gastronomes to its many high-class restaurants. Meanwhile, in the densely packed forests surrounding Alba, two- and four-legged experts sniff out the rare truffles.

Barolo has joined Burgundy on the most avid collectors’ shopping list. It is not before time. Barolo showcases every prerequisite of a region dedicated to the production of fine wine: quality-conscious winemakers, heterogeneous viticulture and first-class terroir.

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