An insider’s guide to wines from Alsace
The Alsace wine region represents the very best of Germanic and Latin culture, merged by politics and war. Alsace was annexed by Germany in 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian conflict. In the early 20th century, the territory was the subject of a fierce dispute between these two great powers; it was handed back to France after WWI. However, it was re-annexed by Nazi Germany in 1940.
Following the conclusion of WWII, Alsace returned to French control. Nevertheless, Germanic influences are still strongly felt today, in everything from gastronomy to architecture and language. This cultural diversity is reflected in the local wine tradition: Alsace is the only French wine region to champion Riesling as a signature grape variety. Moreover, wine bottles proudly showcase the grape name on the front label – this practice is seldom adopted by French wine producers.
Alsace is also a wine tourism paradise. After visiting the legendary Alsace wine route, head to a nearby restaurant and browse the wine list. You may be surprised at the choice on offer; Alsace can offer an exceptional wine tasting experience. The region produces excellent white, red, rosé, and sparkling wine styles to suit every wine lover.
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Geography and terroir
Alsace is situated in north-eastern France, nestled between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine. The region has long been split into two districts: Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin further south. The vineyards run for about 60 miles north to south, along the eastern flank of the Vosges. Alsace wine is heavily influenced by its climate, owed to these spectacular mountains – they provide shelter from moisture-filled clouds from the West. As a result, growers enjoy a very dry continental climate, with warm summers and mild winters. However, temperatures can fall quite dramatically at night, which helps to preserve acidity in the grapes. The region is blessed with very favourable, natural conditions, exploited every year to make superlative Alsace wines, in red, white and rosé.
Indeed, winegrowers are very proud of their diverse and complex terroir. Alsatian wine is known for utilising a broad range of grape varieties, including Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. They grow on an equally wide range of soil types, encompassing metamorphic schist, granite, clay-limestone, sandstone and volcanic soils. Alsatian winemakers are adept at matching a specific variety to the right site. For example: Alsace Pinot Noir thrives on calcareous soils, while Riesling has a strong affinity with granite. This expertise, combined with quality raw materials creates an eclectic wine offering.
Key grape varieties
- Riesling – Some critics believe Alsace Riesling to be the world’s finest. Whilst mostly dry versions are produced, making full-bodied wines with pronounced aromas of citrus, honey suckle, spices and white flowers, off-dry and sweet versions are made too. These include the accomplished Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles, which are affected by botrytis (noble rot).
- Pinot Gris – Alsatian Pinot Gris is both soft and aromatic, with notes of citrus, nectarine, and apple. Older wines tend to boast an attractive oily texture and smoky/spicy aromas. These wines are rarely oaked.
- Pinot Noir – Early-ripening Pinot Noir can be an unpredictable variety, producing sub-par wines in both hot and wet climates. However, the finest estates in Alsace manage to craft a good imitation of Burgundy; red wine characterised by ripe tannins, fresh acidity, and red berry tasting notes.
- Pinot Blanc – This mutation of Pinot Noir can make very appealing white wine in Alsace: ripe and textured, with good acidity and a buttery roundness. With age, tertiary flavours of woodsmoke and hazelnuts emerge.
- Gewürztraminer – One of the world’s most pungent grapes, Gewürztraminer is famous for its unmistakable scent of rose petal. It produces full-bodied and spicy white wine; the style is typically soft and very rich, even when dry.
- Muscat Blanc – Often responsible for Alsace’s brilliant ‘vendanges tardives’ dessert wines, Alsace Muscat can also make very appetising dry white wine; with enticing aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and stone fruit.
Alsace Grand Cru
In Burgundy’s original four-tier winemaking hierarchy, Grand Cru sits at the top. In 1983, Alsace launched a new designation of Grand Cru, which outlined leading vineyards within the region. Several respected winemakers helped to define the vineyard boundaries and delineate between ‘ordinary’ Alsace wine and Alsace Grand Cru. Their hard work was invaluable in identifying which Alsace vineyard climates routinely produced superior wine.
Today, there are 51 Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. Each ‘cru’ has its own appellation, with strict rules pertaining to yield. The vast majority of Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines are based on single-varietal Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat, although blends are occasionally encountered. The low yields and terroir behind every Grand Cru label command higher prices, while offering a guarantee of premium quality, fit for any wine enthusiast.
However, the most iconic Alsace Riesling label is undoubtedly, Clos Ste-Hune. Owned by the Trimbach family. It is always sublime: powerfully structured and very complex, with the ability to improve in bottle for many decades. Mature vintages of this Alsace white wine can display an incredible depth of flavour on the mid-palate, with tasting notes of passion fruit, petrol, and candied lemon.
Sparkling wines from Alsace
Sparkling wine aficionados will find much pleasure in this part of France. The quality of Crémant d’Alsace, the local bubbly, has soared in recent years. Although there are plenty of grape varieties to work with, many growers favour Pinot Blanc, appreciated for its soft mouthfeel and silky texture. It is sometimes blended with Pinot Gris, the latter contributing structure and acidity.
Crémant Rosé is another treasure of Alsace. By law, it must be based on 100% Pinot Noir grapes, produced using the maceration method. The style is noted for its soft, elegant palate and aromas of crushed red berries. You will not find a better tasting summer aperitif in northern France, bar Champagne.
Enjoying the wines from Alsace
Alsace’s trademark is producing racy, saline dry whites and the grape variety is usually referenced on the front label. As a rule, local styles are very fragrant; growers want fruit expression at the forefront of their wines. The notable exception is Pinot Noir, which improves with every vintage. The best examples are a perfect match to the robust and hearty gastronomy that typifies meals in Alsace.
Alsace’s trademark is producing racy, saline dry whites and the grape variety is usually referenced on the front label. As a rule, local styles are very fragrant; growers want fruit expression at the forefront of their wines. The notable exception is Pinot Noir, which improves with every vintage. The best examples are a perfect match to the robust and hearty gastronomy that typifies meals in Alsace.
After dinner, you can try one of the region’s utterly moreish dessert wine styles; Muscat or late-picked Gewürztraminer are the most popular. Sweet Gewürztraminer is a remarkably balanced wine, delivering both freshness and exotic richness on the mid-palate. As a bonus, the vast majority of brands are very attractively priced.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Alsace wine route?
The iconic Alsace wine route is 170km long journey passed breath-taking landscapes and through a series of delightful villages that are well known producers of prestigious appellations.
Are all wines produced in Alsace AOC designated?
There are three Alsace AOC wine designations, the first is Alsace, the second, more prestigious is Alsace Grand Cru and the final designation is Crémant d’Alsace which is reserved specifically for Alsatian bubbly. Almost all the wine produced in Alsace falls under one of these three designations.
Related Pages
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An insider’s guide to red wine from the Loire Valley
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