
Where to Eat & Drink in Piemonte
· Alexander Turnbull Alexander Turnbull on
La Piola (Alba)
If you find yourself in Alba, which at some point on a Piemonte trip, you likely will, then il Duomo (3 Michelin star) owned La Piola is one of the best. Classic Piemontese dishes, many featuring a healthy dose of Alba truffle, and a wine list to match. Their new wine regime sees them offering an ever-changing range of top producers by the glass, including Ceretto, Giacomo Conterno and Bartolo Mascarello. Their Agnolotti del Plin in roasted veal gravy sauce is to die for, and easily the best in Alba.
Piazza Risorgimento, 4, 12051 Alba CN, Italy, closed Sunday/Monday (+39 0173 442800)
Osteria Giro di Vite
Tucked below the village of Monforte and housed in the old railway station of Monchiero, Osteria Giro di Vite is the ultimate destination for those looking to sample “true” Piemontese cuisine. You won’t find Vitello Tonnato on the menu here… finanziera (calf’s brain soup), tripa (tripe), tajarin con fegatini (liver pasta), fritto misto alla piemontese (Google it!) … Everything is lovingly homemade, but not for the faint hearted! The wine list is the bottles standing up on the shelves on the wall, and features some of the region’s finest names at extremely reasonable prices.
35, Via Borgonuovo, Località Borgo Nuovo Basso, 29, 12060 Monchiero, +39 0173 792007, closed Monday (Monchiero – Monforte d’Alba)
More e Macine
A perennial favourite amongst tourists and locals alike that can seemingly do no wrong… serving a full menu of all of the Piemontese classics, as well as freshly cut plates of cheese and ham in case you’ve already had a big lunch, More e Macine is a wine-lovers dream. An incredible list of ever-changing producers, but of course only the best, means you’ll never drink the same bottle twice. Their Champagne selection is also particularly good, and the outside terrace in the summer is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass.
Via XX Settembre, 18, 12064 La Morra, +39 0173 500395 (La Morra)
CentroStorico
More of a wine destination than restaurant, this is the ultimate wine bar. Run by the inimitable “Ciccio,” don’t bother looking at the wine list as it will never be accurate. Look instead at the walls and fridges and you will quickly be amazed by what he has access to. “Blue chip” is an understatement… the plates of food are simple but delicious, and home-cooked. Booking in high season (summer or autumn) is essential as it quickly gets full, and make sure you’ve extended the limit on that credit card, it’s worth it to drink what he has.
Via Roma, 6, 12050 Serralunga d’Alba, closed Monday/Tuesday +39 0173 613203 (Serralunga d’Alba)
Osteria Murivecchi
Go back a century and Bra was the centre of the Piemonte wine trade. The seat of the Royal House of Savoy, and commercially important because of its rail link and industry, there were at one point seven wineries in Bra. In 1929 all but one – Ascheri – closed. Murivecchi is situated in the old Ascheri winery, and the cooking is done by Matteo Ascheri’s (President of the Consorzio) sister and brother-in-law. This is home-cooking at its finest. Enormous portions of home-made tajarin in simple sage and butter sauce; potato gnocchi enveloped in white cream; risotto with infamous Bra sausage; pork chops in Gorgonzola sauce…. The menu changes weekly.
Via G. Piumati, 19, 12042 Bra, closed Monday +39 0172 431008 (Bra)
Le Torri (Castiglione Falleto)
For those looking for something a bit more special, Le Torri is one of the “finer dining” establishments of the region, with the family running it local celebrities. Situated in one of the towers of Castiglione Falleto, just down from Vietti, the views from here on a clear day are hard to beat, and their terrace a prime spot. Their wine list is extensive and features mainly growers from Castiglione Falleto, with a sprinkling of top names from the other villages.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 10, 12060 Castiglione Falletto CN, Italy, closed Tuesday (+39 0173 62937)

Ca’ del Re
Verduno is much sleepier than its neighbouring villages and driving through you would often wonder if anyone actually lives there, however that’s all part of the “borgo incantevole” charm. Ca’ del Re is a raucous affair, especially at night, with an ever-changing seasonal menu of Piemontese classics. Part of the Slow Food movement, expect to find slow-cooked lamb shank, wild boar ragu, Verduno sausage, and delicious home-made pasta.
(Verduno) via Umberto, 14, Verduno, closed Tuesday/Wednesday, (+39 0172 470281)
L’Aromatorio
A B&B that doubles as a wine shop and bar. They serve exceptional homemade pasta (try the plin in the napkin!) as well as regional classics such as Barbaresco braised beef or rabbit cooked in Arneis wine. Their wine selection is fantastic and often features seldom seen bottles from other regions of Italy. It is here that you might stumble across a unicorn waiting to be tamed, but even if you don’t, the food alone is worth the trip.
(Neive), Piazza Negro, 4, 12052 Neive CN, Italy, closed Wednesday/Thursday (+39 0173 677206)
L’Argaj
Perched on the side of the road leading up to Castiglione Falleto, overlooking Monprivato, L’Argaj means “satisfaction” in Piemontese dialect, and you really can’t leave here without being exactly that – satisfied! The menu is inventive and very much in a Michelin style, with simple ingredients elevated by exceptional cooking. They serve Vietti by the glass, which not many places do, so if you need a quick lunch with glass of wine to go with, this is the place. I just can’t believe that in a decade of visiting Piedmont, and having driven past it a thousand times, I never went in!
(Castiglione Falleto), Via Alba Monforte, 114, 12060 Castiglione Falletto CN, Italy, closed Thursday (+39 0173 62882)
Convino
Relatively new to the dining scene of Castiglione Falleto, having opened as a restaurant and B&B in 2023, Convino has an adventurous menu and stellar wine list. The food is traditional, but with a modern twist, with classics such as plin and tajarin featuring, but also dishes such as quail with carrot cream, venison fillet with pea mousse, and a breaded fried rump steak with potato dauphinoise. The dining room is relaxed and friendly, making this the perfect place to settle in for a few bottles of wine. Their Champagne and Burgundy list is better than most restaurants in France, and their Barolo list extensive.
(Castiglione Falleto) Piazza del Centro, 4, 12060 Castiglione Falletto CN, Italy, closed Monday, Sundays are lunch only (+39 0173 216479)