Our Fine Wine team are out in Bordeaux for en primeur – follow their updates from each day of tasting, and some of their wine highlights of the vintage. On their second day, they were visiting estates in Margaux and St Julien. Catch up with Day One here.

We had heard whispers that Margaux (the appellation) has shown particular strength in the 2022 vintage, and our five morning visits would suggest the whispers were accurate. 

One expects great things from Château Margaux itself of course, and Palmer and Rauzan-Ségla for that matter, but some of the most exciting discoveries were from somewhat less obvious names. Dufort Vivens, probably one of the lesser known Second Growths, is one of only three fully organic and biodynamic Cru Classé wines, and the wine has succulent, aromatic fruit, surely the result of some very happy vines. 

For the discerning claret drinker, we can say categorically that Brane Cantenac is an absolute must in 2022. They have a reputation for excelling in warm vintages and ‘22 was at another level. 

Although the châteaux had different approaches to the vintage, the same themes came back regularly. Whilst some young vines didn’t enjoy the heat, old vines managed to produce exceptional grapes: smaller and thick skinned that have produced concentrated fruit and plenty of tannin. Philippe Bascaules at Château Margaux compared the vintage to other concentrated vintages such as 1961, 1986 and 2005, although 2022 is silkier than ‘86 or ‘05 and so has another dimension compared to these legends. That makes for some very exciting wines to look for to enjoy over many decades to come!

Later that day, we had an epic afternoon visiting six châteaux in St. Julien, including many “essentials” and a couple which are clearly on a hit run of form in recent years, so we wanted to take a closer look. 

St. Julien has the largest proportion of Cru Classé chateaux of all the great appellations, and it doesn’t tend to churn out many ‘duds’ even in a weaker year. But what was fascinating is that 2022 allowed winemakers to make the wine they wanted. Ducru Beaucaillou and Léoville Poyferré made big opulent wines, Gruaud Larose was brooding and intense, Beychevelle was bursting with complex layers of fruit and then Talbot was elegant, subtle and stylish. Definitely a château that has been heading in the right direction.

The Bartons (Langoa and Léoville) were, as they are so often are, wonderful wines. Léoville has an alluring sensual quality and Langoa is likely to be a value pick for the vintage. Branaire Ducru, which I have never visited before, was stunning, a revelation, and clearly one of their best vintages ever. 

There will genuinely be something for everyone in 2022 – no matter what style of claret suits you. 

Tasting Highlights

David Stanfield

With such an exciting vintage, I’ve divided some of my tasting highlights into three essential groups – if you can, try to buy across them all.

My value picks are Château Seneja, Château Durfort Viven, Château Haut Bages Libéral and Château Langoa Barton. Best buys of the day were Château Rauzan Segla, Château Brane Cantenac, Château Talbot, Château Léoville Barton and Château Gruaud Larose.

Finally, the money no object choices – Château Margaux, Château Palmer and Château Ducru Beaucaillou.

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