Bordeaux En Primeur Week Diaries: Day 3
· Luke Cianfarani Luke Cianfarani onDay 3. Another early start. C’est normale. Yesterday morning’s Gironde mist is now replaced by bright sunshine. We headed north for about an hour reaching Bordeaux’s famed Route D2; a roll call of the great and the good of Médoc. The scale of the Left Bank is always in sharp contrast to the largely boutique-sized counterparts on the Right.
After the “buvabilité” of the Merlot and Cabernet Franc on the Right Bank, we were now going deep into (predominantly) Cabernet Sauvignon country.
Château Batailley was our first Left Bank appointment, a Pauillac Classified Growth of unrivalled value and a firm favourite for Jeroboams customers. A great start to the day – late picking provided some delicious Cabernet fruit in 2021.
Other classic estates would follow, including Château Lynch-Bages, complete with a truly spectacular new winery and the unfailingly charming Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste. First and Second Growths littered the itinerary giving superb context right across the quality spectrum.
For the afternoon, we focused on St Estèphe, where the proximity of the visibly vast Gironde estuary highlights how different the micro climates are from appellation to appellation. No frost here!
Château Tronquoy Lalande is another rising gem on the plateau just across from a very good Château Montrose, who have made some ground-breaking innovation on sustainability.
Château Calon Segur’s stable included Ch. Capbern and Marquis de Calon, both on fine form.
2021 so far is a vintage of individual stories. There is real transparency. No hiding places. A vintage where a winemaker’s skill – their hard work in the vineyard, decision making and adaptability – carries added importance. Then combine with Estates of great terroir, not to mention those who benefitted from a sprinkling of luck at key moments with the weather (frost and mildew for some was a huge problem, for others not at all).
The Cabernet Sauvignon fruit has ripened beautifully in the right hands in Pauillac and St Estèphe. Tasting wines of fine purity with supple tannins and moderate alcohol. Back to Bordeaux classics!
Another full day tomorrow. Looking forward to it.